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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!


spritzer

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I'm pretty sure its a 1.5 amp slow blow. (for 110 vac) But it might be a 2 amp. Too lazy to go and look.

Definitely not more than 2 amps.

updated schematics with a couple of resistors labeled as to power, and default of .5 watt added.

I will have to look tomorrow on the fuse... Its never blown the fuse yet. Not even with 24 hours of CJ.

The normal time for a fuse to blow is at switch-on. Depending on where the mains is on its cycle, there can be a huge inrush current to build up core mangetisation, or capacitor charge up. Big power amps with 500VA - 2000VA transformers often have a soft-start circuit. A relay with N/O contacts and a several watt power resistor in parallel in the live. A timer circuit wakes up after a second or two, energises the relay and shorts out the series resistor.

Clearly not necessary wit the T2.

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Excellent, I like the way you think. I was thinking aluminum remote too. One that would be a menace to hard wood floors, small children and pets.

edit: my Audio Space integrated has a really nice remote. I don't know if it's aluminum, but it's 2 pieces of heavy metal. We could probably find something similar from China.

yeah, the Rogue / BAT remotes are single piece with a removable back I believe

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so, assuming such a touch panel showed up... would the designer be able to commission an "at-material-cost" billet titanium remote? heh

From the man with 4 billet machined aluminum krell remotes.

DEFINITELY...

Now the at material cost is ok, but i still have to pay for machine time at $72 an hour starting sept 1. (up from $68 ..)

Takes a while to machine titanium.

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So here is the current plan. I should have 8 sets of tops and bottoms done by next tuesday (then i'm out of material till i get some more)

and the knobs by wednesday, then 8 sets will head off for polishing. When i get them back (3 to 4 weeks) i'll send half for anodizing

because that is the batch size the guy wants, (another 10 days) and then 4 will be available. When he drops off the 4, i'll give him the next batch.

After that there will be only one batch of 4 left.

So who wants one of the next 4 chassis. And include which kind of stax jacks you want. PM's ok too.

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The joy about software based controls, is that you can use any platform to implement a client that understands your control protocol. So you are not tied to a specific device / platform. Unless you want to be. Different platforms have different feature sets that you can exploit.

Dirty enough for you?

talk_nerdy_to_me_new.jpg

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this just in, birgir likes his new knob. :D

C1 is a silver mica cap in the original. It lowers the differential gain after about 2 hz.

Ties in with the differential servo to keep the outputs at the same voltage.

i'm sure you could put a 250 volt cap in there. But the original is 500v.

If one of the input tubes shorts out, you really could get the better part of 250 volts

across that cap.

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Paul Houlden hand delivered my transformers on Friday. Awesome - as a supplier to high end audio, what he does not know about toroid design is not worth knowing. These have additional insulating taping between layers to hold off inter-layer voltage - which considerably complicates manufacture. Wind a layer, take off winder, terminate wires and shrink wrap, put on taping machine and insulating tape layer, back onto winder; repeat as necessary.

These things are specifically designed for ultra low stray field and imperceptible mechanical hum irrespective of power line fluctuation.

The good news is that they nicely fit the chassis piercings. They are higher than the originals at 60mm (2.4 inches c.f. 1.6 inches), and are a thing of beauty.

I'll take some photos and post them - link supplied later.

Paul says that building identical units (physical size and secondary specification, except Paul's design is 7% regulation) for different primary voltages is trivial. Since he had to buy a quantity of cores to build mine, he is set up to build more.

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