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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!


spritzer

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Those plate through holes are a real problem.

 

Need to check the continuity after re-soldering a component.

I usually go from the component either side of the replaced one if the board has tracks on both sides of the board at that point.

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I don't like the sound of this.  Is this a design this is prone to blowing up with no provocation or are these problems due to assembly issues?

 

"started after one of the K216's in the front end CCS had shorted through the insulation and a 3675 in the main CCS had also shorted."

 

What insulation did it short through- the heatsink insulation pad? An insulating washer on the mounting screw?  What kind did you use?

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I was using steel screws and the heavy duty insulation.  This is only at 250V but the K216's are a pain to fit with those insulation washers so that's probably why it shorted out.  There was a nice melted puddle of insulation at the top of the K216 tab...  :) 

 

The 3675 fail was at the PCB so sloppy soldering on my part or rather, sloppy desoldering.  Never work on HV when you are tired... 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am still tweaking it a bit. Wanted to add a motorized potentiometer with remote control so I had to revise lots of things.

Who are you looking at for that.  I'm having some issues with a four gang POT.

 

Very nice work on the panels :)

Edited by Kerry
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  • 3 weeks later...

I might try to add some holes around the tubes or even columns, if it's really necessary.

Um. That is my point. Kevin seemed to think so. Look at the pics in the thread.

Venting isn't the issue. The goal is creating some thermal resistance around the tubes so the top plate doesnt just conduct all that heat and act as a giant heat spreader.

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