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spritzer

The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

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Those plate through holes are a real problem.

 

Need to check the continuity after re-soldering a component.

I usually go from the component either side of the replaced one if the board has tracks on both sides of the board at that point.

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I don't like the sound of this.  Is this a design this is prone to blowing up with no provocation or are these problems due to assembly issues?

 

"started after one of the K216's in the front end CCS had shorted through the insulation and a 3675 in the main CCS had also shorted."

 

What insulation did it short through- the heatsink insulation pad? An insulating washer on the mounting screw?  What kind did you use?

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I was using steel screws and the heavy duty insulation.  This is only at 250V but the K216's are a pain to fit with those insulation washers so that's probably why it shorted out.  There was a nice melted puddle of insulation at the top of the K216 tab...  :) 

 

The 3675 fail was at the PCB so sloppy soldering on my part or rather, sloppy desoldering.  Never work on HV when you are tired... 

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Started working on the front panels for my second T2. Lots of fun ahead. :)

post-2820-0-94666100-1367589525_thumb.jp

post-2820-0-10530600-1367589557_thumb.jp

Edited by Lil Knight

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'twill look better when the machining is finished....

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Need to spend more time working on the surface finish but I am quite happy with these raw panels. I opted for T6063 aluminum for a better finish.

post-2820-0-34864300-1367633939_thumb.jp

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I am still tweaking it a bit. Wanted to add a motorized potentiometer with remote control so I had to revise lots of things.

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I am still tweaking it a bit. Wanted to add a motorized potentiometer with remote control so I had to revise lots of things.

Who are you looking at for that.  I'm having some issues with a four gang POT.

 

Very nice work on the panels :)

Edited by Kerry

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Fooling around with these for a while, I think I will settle on this :)

 

KHIBOMATTRUOC_zps886a84b7.jpg

 

CHSIS2_zps53cfaf71.jpg

 

VITRICANCANHMATTRUOCLAPTANNHIET_zps6c3ff

 

KHIBOTANNHIET_zps20a583e0.jpg

 

KHIBONAPTREN_zps53bdf51c.jpg

 

phiamatsau_zps754748e3.jpg

 

VITRICANCANHMATSAULAPVOITANNHIET_zps574e

Edited by Lil Knight

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Very cool looking case Tran.

 

I have decided to sell my T2 boards if anyone is interested.  They will be listed in the sale forum shortly.

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^^ My priorities have changed lately and I have not been listening with headphones much at all.  

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There will be 2 venting columns on each of the remaining top-bottom panels. Regarding the amp's top, exactly how hot is it? I might try to add some holes around the tubes or even columns, if it's really necessary.

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Let's put it this way, throw water on the amp and it evaporates quickly enough to not short out the circuit...

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I might try to add some holes around the tubes or even columns, if it's really necessary.

Um. That is my point. Kevin seemed to think so. Look at the pics in the thread.

Venting isn't the issue. The goal is creating some thermal resistance around the tubes so the top plate doesnt just conduct all that heat and act as a giant heat spreader.

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Let's put it this way, throw water on the amp and it evaporates quickly enough to not short out the circuit...

 

Is a bucket full to much?

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