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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!


spritzer

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No capacitors or resistor issues that I'm aware of.  These are generic parts so there are always subs.

Some of the xicon resistors in the batteries are no longer available. I recall there were some other brands that people had success with, but that for the most part if xicon's weren't used in the batteries you would end up with a noisy t2. For someone like icarium he needs to make sure the large caps are short enough to safely fit in the case without being accidentally hit by a case screw. The one in the original bom is no longer available, though alternatives are probably out there.

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Some of the xicon resistors in the batteries are no longer available. I recall there were some other brands that people had success with, but that for the most part if xicon's weren't used in the batteries you would end up with a noisy t2. For someone like icarium he needs to make sure the large caps are short enough to safely fit in the case without being accidentally hit by a case screw. The one in the original bom is no longer available, though alternatives are probably out there.

 

Use Vishay's and lift them off the board which does the same thing.  :) 

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You just need 34 1486 and 34 3675 per amp, if you are going with "all original" parts, so 200 is a lot more than you would need.

 

Oh yah I know. I'm an inveterate parts/gear hoarder so I want to keep some around just for the who knows what. And also in case they are used in other designs. I don't ever want to pay 6 dollars+ a piece if I had a chance to pay 3 dollars :) It seems like they will appreciate for sure so if I can afford it now.

 

Also who knows what I might need to trade for in the future :)

Edited by Icarium
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I believe under the JIS system that Sanyo had exclusive use of the 2SC3675 numbering. The right side transistor is obviously not Sanyo.

 

The one on the left looks like a perfect copy or genuine. If the numbering is not etched below the surface and printed instead or the tab and leads are not all copper, completely non-magnetic it's a fake.

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I do prefer isolated tabs. Does make mounting easier.

 

It goes without saying that isolated heatsinks are a solution. But if it's a clone amplifier or a repair then that may not be how the original was designed.

 

The data sheet device parameter curves are interesting to me to their differences given that both are stated as being Triple Diffused Planar types.

Edited by CraigBuckingham
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  • 3 weeks later...

Is it more important for the 3675's in the batteries to have matching hfe's, or for that hfe to be of higher value? Aside from three 3675's (which are 41x2 and 46) the rest of mine have a hfe between 50-70.

Edited by s_r
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Thanks Kerry.

 

Figured I may as well show my progress with the build:

 

post-3922-0-29960200-1423973404_thumb.jp

 

Still missing a number of xicons (as per the ad I posted) though. Unless someone has a chunk of them they're willing to spare I might pick up carbon takmans instead. Maybe just for the batteries in case vishays are fine outside of there.

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The resistors in the batteries were the ones that were leaking.  Make sure whatever you use are well insulated and are lifted off of the board. 

 

I originally used the red PRP and had them lifted, but they still caused problems.

 

EDIT:  Looks nice so far :)

Edited by Kerry
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  • 2 weeks later...

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