dsavitsk Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 And I'd have a hard time with the Elma with only 24 steps. Elma has a 46. And Shalco has a 63. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Elma has a 46. And Shalco has a 63. Clearly my memory is a few steps short. Edit - Google says the Elma still has 24, got a link to the ones with 63? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsavitsk Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 http://www.elma.com/en-eu/products/rotary-switches/audio-solutions/product-pages/a47-series-audio-attenuator-detail/ http://switch-products.shallco.com/item/rotary-switches/rotary-switches-industrial-and-military-grade/114-fm My experience is that the people at Elma are super nice and helpful. The people at Shallco are not. And I have been told from reputable people to expect to disassembled the Shallco to try to get it to align correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Sweet! I had an Elma in one of my amps, it was quite nice. Bummer about Shalco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Am in need of sourcing some 340mm x 165mm single flanged or flat back heatsinks (and I'll get my own custom L plates made to house the dozen or so T03 output transistors) that is capable of dissipitating 300watts peak of thermal output heat. Conrad Heatsinks located down here in Aus in my state doesn't seem to be contactable as I've sent two emails and no reply. Any further heap is greatly appreciated as I'm desperate to get this power amp going. (One of the fins broken off, so either new alu sinks or somehow grind and finish the broken bit off). Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 I had Fischer make some 350*150mm sinks for me recently. I also have some Conrad from a group buy on DIYA years back. I'll have to find them and measure the exact dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 How was the price, shipping and the turn around time from to start to finish to get the hs completed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 I bought two dozen as they won't sell you just a few. Took a few weeks as this is custom extruded . Price was good but the shipping was crazy expensive. Sending aluminum UPS will do that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsavitsk Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Conrad Heatsinks located down here in Aus in my state doesn't seem to be contactable as I've sent two emails and no reply. I had Conrad fail to respond to emails a few months ago. Once they finally did, they were very apologetic and offered me a big discount. I think someone there is just disorganized, so I'd try again. Not your exact size, but HeatsinkUSA might be an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laowei Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 DefQon, I have a pair of virgin Conrad flat back heatsinks sitting around from a too long put off F5 project. I believe they are the 350mm long versions. If interested, PM me offline and I can check further and I'm sure we can work something out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UFN Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 (edited) I had Fischer make some 350*150mm sinks for me recently. I also have some Conrad from a group buy on DIYA years back. I'll have to find them and measure the exact dimensions. I believe the DIYA GB ones were Conrads 350mm profile in 151.5 (6") length - at least the two Conrad GBs I recall seeing. //UFN Edited February 21, 2015 by UFN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Conrad's product list indicate they have flat backs in that sized profile (350mm x 151.5mm) but the single flanged are limited to 300mm only. It's about $55 AUD a piece for the MF35 so it's pretty cheap considering I'm about 10km's drive away from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Anyone know a good place to buy iec punches stateside? Are they easier to work with than "grinding it out" with a drill press? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earspeakers Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) On/off switches? Many folks here have ones with built in lights, are those standard issue? Looking for something nice. Other suggestions? Edited February 23, 2015 by Earspeakers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Anyone know a good place to buy iec punches stateside? Are they easier to work with than "grinding it out" with a drill press? http://www.mouser.com/Greenlee/Tools-Supplies/Tools/Punches-Dies/_/N-5ggeZ1z0zl5j But they have their limitations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Anyone know a good place to buy iec punches stateside? Are they easier to work with than "grinding it out" with a drill press? Just curious, what is your process? You might enjoy Morgan Jones' "Building Tube Amplifiers" as he goes though a lot of things that even an experienced circle hole cutter tech might be able to learn from. Spoiler: he answers your question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Just curious, what is your process? You might enjoy Morgan Jones' "Building Tube Amplifiers" as he goes though a lot of things that even an experienced circle hole cutter tech might be able to learn from. Spoiler: he answers your question Thanks for reminding me I purchased that book during some o'reilly sale. He only mentions Greenlee as a supplier of these I've been bs-ing shapes by drilling holes to approximate things, then filing the rest out with a dremel. Step drill bit for XLR holes. I don't know about everyone else but I've been finding them pretty annoying to work with lately. I saw Spritzer's pics of a broken punch and I figured I'd give it a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) He talks about how to cut shapes, read again, it's even complete with a progression of pictures. The example is a transformer, trapezoidal shape of sorts. The "jeweler's saw" / "piercing saw" works wonders and it's quite simple to use. Edit: perhaps it's only in the newest version of the book... Regardless, I already gave up the farm Edited February 23, 2015 by luvdunhill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 http://www.mouser.com/Greenlee/Tools-Supplies/Tools/Punches-Dies/_/N-5ggeZ1z0zl5j But they have their limitations. i have a whole bunch of greenlee punches from .5 inch thru 3 inches The only way to go for chassis up to 3/16 inch thick i even bought a square one for doing the iec sockets. birgir can supply pictures of what happens when you try to use them on 10mm panels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Ahemmmm... As it happens I just got some new punches in from the UK today. Douglas helped me out as RS were being dicks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gepardcv Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 What does everyone use to run wires along the amp chassis? I was thinking of clamps like these from Mouser, but am wondering if there is something neater. Maybe something with two eye holes instead of just one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzziguy Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Well, my matched octet of EL84 tubes arrived today. The first thing I did with them is run them through my Jackson 658A tester. On initial testing, everything tested well except that on 4 of the 8 tubes, there was flashing on shorts test K (the first shorts test). After finishing the initial test, I decided to retest the 4 failing tubes being sure to give them plenty of time to warm up. The first 2 tubes I tried then passed shorts test K with no problem. The third tube still has a flashing problem with this test. The last tube arced when I inserted it into the tester. By arced I mean that there is an extremely bright, flashing, white light. To be sure that my tester wasn't the problem, I reinserted a tube that originally passed shorts test K. It exhibited normal behavior including still passing test K. So I have 1 defective for sure and 3 other suspect tubes. I sent a message to the seller asking him to suggest a resolution to this problem. We'll see what he says. Do you think that I should insist on all 4 (potentially) bad tubes being replaced or just the one that arced? I guess I need to see if JJ EL84 have a reputation for being "fragile". At least it happened in my tester and not my amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Matched != burned in, obviously. Sorry about the bad luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsavitsk Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 In this day and age when you can buy a basic CNC for around $500, I don't know why anyone would get out a jewelers saw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Because the saw costs $10, doesn't require software to use among other things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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