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The Headcase Stax thread


thrice

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Well, it looks like I'm be trading with Blutarsky tomorrow for Naamanf's old O2 Mk1, and spending more time trying to decide between the Mk1 and my Mk2 again.

I likely will sell one of the O2 eventually, but I'd like to hang onto both until I can listen to them via SRD-7 Pro out of my Eddie Current ZDT speaker-out first. I just don't know if I want to hang onto both until it arrives in June - the 6 week delivery date is pushed back a month.

Hope you'll get a better chance to listen to the differences, as i don't recall you having that much time with them before you traded for the k1000. Would like to hear your opinion when you decide.

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I'm not sure if I posted this here but since I had to update the pic today I might as well post it here:

First off the disclaimer. This is live AC voltage you are working with so do this at your own risk. If you do not know what you are doing have somebody that does take a look at it. While I've tested the 240v and 117v versions and it works fine this is posted without any responsibility on my part for any damage due to Stax changing the design at some point. This works with my two C-series SRM-1 Mk2's and my B-series SRM-T1. This is only intended for those amps that didn't ship with a voltage selector plug. If it did come with one... then use that then! :P

voltageselector.jpg

The picture above is how the rear of the socket should look like but Stax often changed them around to have the component only for one voltage. If it reads 100v (or 117v, 230v etc.) only on the back and there is no plug in the voltage selector socket odds are that the socket is wired differently. It needs to be changed to the above configuration or the amp can catch fire or worse.

Since there are two white wires I marked them on the picture, AC power in and from transformer. The AC power comes from the power switch and is in the upper row. It is connected to 3 pins while the other white wire is in the bottom row and only connected to one pin. That one is connected to the primary of the transformer. The only other pin that has more then one connection is the gray one. You can connect to any of the joined pins as they are all the same.

Here is the list. You need to put a jumper wire between different colors where the + sign is. There are always two different connections per voltage with either two or three different colors.

240v configuration

Gray + Purple

AC power in + Blue

220v configuration

AC power in + Blue

Green + Gray

117v configuration

Blue + Purple + AC power in

White + Gray

100v configuration

AC power in + brown + green

Gray + White

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Birgir, nice of you.:)

HeadphoneAddict, do you think listening through the SRD box will be better than through the GES? Just curious.

With the O2, the SRD-7 Pro and SRD-7 Mk2 have a lot of potential, but I've only been using low-end $200-300 speaker amps. I am looking forward to trying a much better amp with them. Last time I tried the O2 Mk1 they were easier to drive and sounded a little better with the transformer and 8.5 watt/ch Qinpu A-3, although the mk2 are nice off the GES ever since I changed my source to the PS Audio DL3 DAC. The O2 Mk1 just needed a little more pizazz or spark than they got from the GES. Listening to Diana Krall "Live in Paris" just didn't feel live with the GES, and vocals were a little recessed. However, classical with O2Mk2 and GES was pretty good. Switching the Mk1 to the transformer really woke them up.

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That should be enough to get the SR-007 going. :D For those that don't know, the Dayton-Wright speakers were driven in a sealed pocket of gas so that they could be driven at higher voltages then what normal air allows. That accounts for the truly terrifying voltages.

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