Les_Garten Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 I feel like Newman hoarding Victoria's secret Catalogs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Sexy Although you oriented the top left and the bottom middle one wrong. [/pedantry] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les_Garten Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Sexy Although you oriented the top left and the bottom middle one wrong. [/pedantry] Wait till you see me build something! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Great connectors but make extra sure you don't short out the wires with a stray strand. The R- and bias pins are pretty close together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 About plugs and jacks. I'm a bit annoyed that the tolerances aren't better on Stax-made Stax stuff. The older model headphones fit great on my SRD-7SB but are loose on the SRD-7, and the Lambda Sig plug is slightly too big for the 7/SB and good on the 7. Whatever, it's not too much of a big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les_Garten Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Great connectors but make extra sure you don't short out the wires with a stray strand. The R- and bias pins are pretty close together... Good point. You could use heat shrink, but that would cover up the pretty pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 I'd recommend heatshrink but it was hard for me to use since I had two wires on each pin, the wire from the tubes and then a loop out to the Fischer socket. Solid core wires would also be a good choice here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beefy Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Great connectors but make extra sure you don't short out the wires with a stray strand. The R- and bias pins are pretty close together... The 6-pin variant is even more fun I removed all of the outer pins, did the centre pin first, and made sure for the outside pins that all the wires were actually towards the outside. I used 22AWG Belden wire and a decent length of heatshrink, and it ended up a nice clean job, and very secure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les_Garten Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 I'd recommend heatshrink but it was hard for me to use since I had two wires on each pin, the wire from the tubes and then a loop out to the Fischer socket. Solid core wires would also be a good choice here... The 6-pin variant is even more fun I removed all of the outer pins, did the centre pin first, and made sure for the outside pins that all the wires were actually towards the outside. I used 22AWG Belden wire and a decent length of heatshrink, and it ended up a nice clean job, and very secure. Through my powers of inductive reasoning here, it looks like it is best to solder the Jack first, then install in the chassis. Solid core does sound attractive here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beefy Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Through my powers of inductive reasoning here, it looks like it is best to solder the Jack first, then install in the chassis. Solid core does sound attractive here. Yes, absolutely before it goes in the chassis I can't imagine solid core being that much better. I twisted tightly and tinned, and had no problems at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Solid core has the advantages of being a single strand so easy to spiral onto the pins and make a very secure connection. Ohh and you are wusses for not doing this all with the socket mounted in the chassis with no real access to it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 resistance is futile...got a new 404LE today (thanks to tip from local HFier). waiting on an incoming SRD7Pro (had a SRD7mkII before but I chickened out of 'stats then), looking forward to my first 'stat experience. (my K1000, recently reacquired, looks pissed...) btw, the local store was down to two last pairs - the final pair remaining after my purchase had a serial number of 0666 I was tempted to buy both, but no way I'm going to bring that last evil spawn into my house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 ooooh! T1 loan to coincide with my Luxman P1u loan would be pure win! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Also, where are you guys getting your 404LEs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Also, where are you guys getting your 404LEs? a local stax dealer here in HK (Mingo), so that may not be attractive to you. But if you don't mind the serial number of the last pair, I'm happy to pick up and ship to you (it was HK$4900 = US$630, no tax in HK, shipping I figure ~US$20). Probably can't do it until later in the week given work commitments and this place is a bit out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Chalk Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 ...the final pair remaining after my purchase had a serial number of 0666 I was tempted to buy both, but no way I'm going to bring that last evil spawn into my house. How much? I'd be interested, potentially. Feel free to PM if you don't want to discuss openly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 How much? I'd be interested, potentially. Feel free to PM if you don't want to discuss openly. per above post, no mark-up - just what the shop charges plus shipping. Let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Chalk Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) Somehow I missed that. Let me think about it, but I'm seriously interested. EDIT: Actually, I better pass. Thanks for the offer, anyway. Edited February 7, 2010 by Dusty Chalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 I may get a chance to hear a pair soon. Those pads sure do look different from normal Lambda pads. Oh, and I like your taste in headphones, Jim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepak Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Pictures of dynamics in the Stax thread = ban! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Butbut, maybe we can deem it an honorary 'stat? It doesn't suck, I swear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beefy Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 So my Yamas order for SR-Lambda replacement parts finally arrived. I'm pretty sure I can replace the cable, backing foam, pads and headpad with no problems...... but have a question about the mineral wool. It has come loosely attached to a coarse fibered paper backing. Would the paper go against the driver, not against the driver, or is the paper removed from the wool entirely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cetoole Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Not sure, I strongly suspect the paper needs to be removed, but I would be pretty curious to see a pic of it before you do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 I've never bought replacement wool but there isn't supposed to be any paper attached to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beefy Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Thought as much, but thought I should double check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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