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The Headcase Stax thread


thrice

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Greetings Mario,

 

 There are many people much more qualified to answer your question here, but I'll give it a shot anyway since my tastes and expiences somewhat echo your own.

 

I currently own SR-007Mk2's and have have owned 303's in the past. I have heard a lot of 007Mk 1's.  The Mk 1 has a subjectively more even and neutral overall presentation. The Mk 1 responds best with solid-state or very neutral tube amplification. The Mk 2 has a bit of a mid bass bump and a slightly more forward presentation.  The Mk 1 is preferred by most here, but the Mk 2 is a very fine headphone in it's own right.  With some amplification (primarily tube) the Mk 1 can sound a little recessed and dark. I build tube amplification and listen to rock music. In my system I actually prefer the Mk 2. I also prefer the Mk 2 to the LCD-3 ( also a very fine headphone), which I also own.

 

I was very fortunate to get a one time shot at a brand new U.S. Mk 2 with warranty at  essentally a used price.  Like you, I was hesitant  to purchase  a 10 year old headphone  in unknown condition for the kind of money we're talking here. Many of the Mk 1's I've seen at meets are starting to show their age. If you ever need new drivers from Stax, they will be M 2's.  If I had to pay  full list priceI for the Mk 2's i might have made a different  decision, but I have no regrets and greatly enjoy my Mk 2's.

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FrankCooter,

 

Many many thanks! Tried to thank You, but since I am a noob/novice, can´t.

 

I need to say that is exactly the words I was hoping to hear. Most important, that regarding LCD-3! Only bummer is the fact that it is almost sure I´ll need to get a new and full priced Mk II, ´cause the logics involved for my purchase are somehow troublesome.

 

Many thanks again.

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Sounds plausible...  :)

 

In Stax news Kevin felt I didn't have enough stuff to work on so he's sending me his Single Power ES-2 to rebuild.  :palm:  I said hell no to those crazy transformers Mikhail used so I can come up with a whole new PSU design.  Should be fun and a whole crapload of work. 

 

Also the Chinese KGSS clone came in from a loan with the volume control busted.  Had to spend some two hours yesterday rewiring it completely but now it works perfectly and some people will not get it back on loan...  :)

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Nope, he used the Plitrons but they are just stupid.  Heavy metal casing and who needs two 285VA transformers for that amp?  Makes no sense when one 300VA unit is utter overkill.  

 

It will get custom made PSU too with the C- built in and everything crammed into one box...because fuck you Mikhail.   I don't need an amp that is that heavy and almost a meter tall. 

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so birgir is a little bit off.

 

With Justin's rubber feet

 

The whole thing is 18 inches x 18 inches x 25 inches from the bottom of the power supply feet

to the top of the tubes.

 

yikes.  USPS finally has pulled their heads out of their asses with slightly slower shipping for

packages over 25 lbs, for a bunch less money. So only $165 to ship the brick of aluminum

to Iceland. And it was over 51 lbs.  Previously to ship T2 chassis which was 34 lbs was about $225

 

When he is done with this one, I will ship him the es1 I have. With the transformers.

 

Then the only monster I will have left is the SS1 which is such a complete clusterfuck...

 

Mikhail certainly was entertaining. I wonder who ended up with the gold plated sds-xlr?

Edited by kevin gilmore
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So I plugged in my 009s for the first time in a few weeks and there was a squeal in one of the drivers. I unplugged them right away.

 

I'm guessing my only option here is to send them in to Yamas/Accuphase/StaxUSA or whatever else they call themselves now?

 

I bought them back in 2011/12 when the first came out so I highly doubt they are still under warranty.

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I'm pretty sure its the 9s, but I'll see if I can wrangle up a second pair of stats just to be sure. The squeal is low volume and high frequency. Almost like the chittering of an insect. It is only on the right side.

 

Both sides can still play music but the squeal is there regardless of whether music is playing or not as long as the 9s are plugged in.

Edited by TMoney
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I'd be betting on the amp.

 

Have you checked the output balance on the offending channel?

 

Try it on both DC and AC voltage.

 

DC voltage to see of the balance is close to zero and,

AC voltage to see of there is some parasitic oscillation going on. If you can hear it, the meter should pick it up.

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The squeal?  Dust or some debris inside the driver making a partial short between the diaphragm and stator causing the diaphragm to oscillate. 

 

 

I thought dust as well. You said the cans have been in storage for a while yes? Unused?

 

I'm fairly certain this is what happened. They've been sitting on a high shelf unused for a few weeks. Is there anything I can do about dust/dirt other than send them in for servicing?

 

The 9s seem quite a bit more difficult to take apart than the 7s.

 

 

 

UPDATE: Testing the dust theory, I unplugged them and sprayed some compressed air at the offending driver. Problem solved, I think. The squeal is gone.

Edited by TMoney
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