Torpedo Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 I thought the drivers were dust protected by a fine layer of plastic film, so it can't reach the thin space between stator and diaphragm. Reading how it was solved looks like dust outside the driver components can cause the squeal too. Live to learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Compressed air and Stax drivers do not mix!!! The film Stax use for dust covers is very fragile so holes in them after some use are not uncommon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torpedo Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Damn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chinsettawong Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 (edited) Yea, the dust cover is too fragile to withstand compressed air. Edited October 6, 2014 by chinsettawong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemomec Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 The squeal? Dust or some debris inside the driver making a partial short between the diaphragm and stator causing the diaphragm to oscillate. I think the problem is not so easy to detect. My experiance is, that this squeal issue is most on the SR Lambda Signature models, i had maybe more than 10 SR Signature models here and the squeal problem has about 60-70%, the other Lambda models haven´t this issue. Where are the problem, stator, mylar thickness or other!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 The lack of a proper dust cover on the back of the Lambda Signature is the culprit. It uses the woven mesh but no thick layer of mineral wool to keep everything out of the driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithpgdrb Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 you might have gotten lucky if the problem seems to have gone away and you didnt damage the film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chinsettawong Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 If blowing compressed air solved the problem, I'm afraid that the dust cover could have already been broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMoney Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 If blowing compressed air solved the problem, I'm afraid that the dust cover could have already been broken. I have the same worry as well. As a precaution, I've started putting them back in their box when they are not being used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemomec Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 The lack of a proper dust cover on the back of the Lambda Signature is the culprit. It uses the woven mesh but no thick layer of mineral wool to keep everything out of the driver. Thats maybe the reason for this squeal issue, thanks for the hint! The Signatures has this mesh unprotected on the backside, only some last models of the Signature has the new pvc dust cover of the newer Lambdas and the Pro and the normal bias Lambda has the mineral wool as protect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Will update this post, got a surprise for some of you guys on a repair the previous owner tried performing on an SR-3 New I'am in the process of re-repairing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Calling Wink and John McClean this one is for you: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sennheiser-Orpheus-HE-90-Headphone-Amplifier-and-Headphones-/131320287937?pt=AU_Electronics_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item1e934c92c1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 (edited) I'm trying to recable my ECR 500 with a Lambda Sig cable but it's not immediately obvious how to disassemble the headphone to replace the cable. Taking it apart has clearly been done before, given Gary's and other peoples' pics floating around the internet. Help? Edit: I can obviously open it up from the driver side by unscrewing the baffle. Then the driver is held into the frame and the long driver tabs go across to the other side. Edited October 13, 2014 by mypasswordis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 I have an ECR-400 that I want to do this as well. As soon as I remove the baffle only one side of the white driver assembly lifts up, the bottom side has 3 metal connections secured into the plastic grooves which I assume connects to the cable entry on the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 It's been 7+ years since I opened up either of them so I can't remember how you do it. Calling Wink and John McClean this one is for you: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sennheiser-Orpheus-HE-90-Headphone-Amplifier-and-Headphones-/131320287937?pt=AU_Electronics_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item1e934c92c1 It's a late one so the amplifier will at least work as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 I looked at Gary's pics again (well, a thumbnail since the imageshack servers stopped hosting them), and it seems the way to open them is not through the baffle side, but the outer side. I used my fingers to pry open the metal backside, which was glued onto the plastic housing in two places. You have to be careful not to damage anything when doing so (plastic from the 1970s is not so good), and I have not yet thought of a good way to put the metal backside on without making it permanent. Maybe it doesn't really need anything other than friction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Will the ECR's work straight away on normal bias or pro bias after a cable swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 They are electrets, thus only four pins on the connector. Only the TOTL ECR 800 or 880 or whatever was a full blown electrostatic, which seems not to have passed the test of time as well as the ECR 500s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 My google-fu isn't so good and it seems most of Smeggy's old imageshack uploads are gone, what cable connection goes to where on the electret driver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 I'll leave it to you to ohm it out with a DMM when you open it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cetoole Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 I'll leave it to you to ohm it out with a DMM when you open it up. That seems like a difficult venture with an electret. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 By ohm it out I don't mean the drivers, but the cable. Should have specified, I find the continuity beeps annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 (edited) I know the connections from the Stax plug to the end cable leads that attach to the driver. What I meant is since 2 of the connections are used per channel from normal bias cable I have, what is the -/+R/L connections on the electret drivers? I finally managed to pop the hood off my ECR-400. Edited October 14, 2014 by DefQon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mypasswordis Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Hint: the trafo box is unipolar but the drivers are not http://www.head-fi.org/t/157539/sony-electrets/30#post_2062726 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefQon Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 (edited) Anyway I have an AKG K340 that seem's to be have some noticeable imbalance in the upper-registers which I assume is due to the electret driver. I eliminate the issue of cable or the dynamic driver and the PCB board with the step up transformer by swapping the electret element to the opposite channel, the imbalance issue can back on which ever channel the electret driver was soldered too. Anyway I carefully disassembled it and it's very odd. Using plastic stators there seems to be a plastic film on both sides of the membrane that seals the inside diaphragm which also has it's charge, re-coating both sides like I do with my e-stats that have channel imbalance seems to do nothing. I did come across with somebody from rockgrotto whom had an idea of using a watch battery to somehow charge the diaphragm, spritzer any ideas? (Took these shots a while ago but haven't had the time to upload them.) Edited October 14, 2014 by DefQon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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