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The Headcase Stax thread


thrice

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I did wonder where they got those emblems. The stands would be the cheapest way possible. That transformer box has got to be stupid expensive.

At least some of the smaller 9 pin dual triode tubes have a shield that you can tie to ground to prevent crosstalk. not enough pins on an octal to do that.

Edited by kevin gilmore
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Actually, he says the transformers are from the Stax F81X electrostatic loudspeakers.  As to why a transformer designed to sit between a power amp with a couple ohms or less impedance and a large capacitative load (the F81) would be a good choice for a 6336A tube output with a couple hundred ohms plate impedance driving a small capacitative load of around 100 pf...?.

Edited by JimL
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  • 2 weeks later...

I started getting a rattle in the right channel of an SR-207. It's only audible in lower frequencies, like the bass shaker test on Audio Check. When the same thing happened to my HD600, I disassembled it and removed a hair from the driver, which fixed the problem. A little searching the threads here hasn't turned up disassembly instructions for Lambda-type headphones. Repair suggestions, please?

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42 minutes ago, gepardcv said:

I started getting a rattle in the right channel of an SR-207. It's only audible in lower frequencies, like the bass shaker test on Audio Check. When the same thing happened to my HD600, I disassembled it and removed a hair from the driver, which fixed the problem. A little searching the threads here hasn't turned up disassembly instructions for Lambda-type headphones. Repair suggestions, please?

remove the house from headband assembly, be careful not to bend the plastic as it is kind of brittle.
there are four small Philips-screws, located in each corner beneath the pad - you don't have to remove the pad, just push/lift it a bit in the corners and loosen up the four screws.
Afterwards you can remove the pad + baffle inlucing driver from the housing.

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The input on that KGSS is so fucked that it might be better to just take the pot off the board and just wire it all from the beginning.  You should have a 100R input resistor and 500K shunt to ground.  That's it...

12 minutes ago, Ali-Pacha said:

Got my hands on some late SR-1. Interesting mid-centric / hollow sound, but all around impressed by how it's close to the later iterations of the concept (SR-3, SR-5...).

Ali

Be sure to replace the adhesive rings in front of the drivers or they will sound pretty wonky...  :) 

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19 hours ago, spritzer said:

The input on that KGSS is so fucked that it might be better to just take the pot off the board and just wire it all from the beginning.  You should have a 100R input resistor and 500K shunt to ground.  That's it...

 

Thanks!
I already removed the pot and will be installing off board pot. I will also remove the 4 small caps, C10 and C11 (+C7 and C16)

 

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The lasts from PJ were SZ2, mine is for example.I bought from there because I wanted the new diaphragm too. I do not know this is true or not, PEEK or mylar, etc... Spritzer always tells there is no real system in the serials.

Edited by judo
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Well, just checked mine and they are SZ2 - 2253.

I purchased them on site in Tokyo in November last year from a music store. They were not in stock at the store, so these were delivered straight from Stax the next day.

Unless someone kept yours in storage for a couple of years before selling, I'd assume it's new stock. 

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