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thrice

The Headcase Stax thread

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They sure are, more like varnished shut and its a cunt separating the stators from the inner diaphragm ring without putting too much force potentially bending them. I learnt this the hard way with a LNS though it was already broken. Then I found it easier to clean off the varnish around the drivers first leaving a thin coat giving you easier access to the stator and diaphragm ring. Use a very thin, sharp and strong scalpel or surgeon's knife.

Edited by DefQon

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2 hours ago, DefQon said:

...its a cunt separating the stators from the inner diaphragm ring without putting too much force potentially bending them. 

(squints)

Mebbe we should rename this place to Cunt-Case.

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Well... 

IMAG0110.thumb.jpg.d9463cf6d69c1f412f0b5659c801a9f8.jpg

The channel imbalance is gone. 

Thanks for the help Pirx and DefQon. Your posts gave me just enough information to get confident. The driver split apart just as expected and the recoat went without incident.  They're singing properly for the first time since I've had them! 

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you did it correctly, don´t try to take apart the brass rings as it is just a pain

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4 hours ago, Torpedo said:

What did you use for the recoat?

I used Endust antistatic gel. It's the same stuff I used to recoat my SR-5s a couple of years ago and it's held up fine.

Edited by Arthrimus

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Thanks! It's kind of paradoxical using an anti-static cleaner to coat electrostatic drivers.

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20 hours ago, Torpedo said:

Thanks! It's kind of paradoxical using an anti-static cleaner to coat electrostatic drivers.

It really isn't. :)  The anti static stuff is just that as it creates a high resistance layer which is perfect for electrostatic use. ;D 

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2 minutes ago, spritzer said:

It really isn't. :)  The anti static stuff is just that as it creates a high resistance layer which is perfect for electrostatic use. ;D 

Sure, I get it, that's why I said "kind of" paradoxical. As I understand it, considering my very low knowledge, you want your electrostatic field to be perfectly controlled in intensity, to be the same on both drivers, and to be kept within the strict size of the material. An isolating layer can be very helpful to achieve that. Is the problem in the 009 losing its balance between channels related to this?

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Some say it could comme from a rivet connection (instead of soldering) within the strain relief for the bias. But who knows...

Ali

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4 hours ago, kunalraiker said:

So eventually all SR007's and SR009 will develop this channel imbalance?

 

Would that be the case.

Unlikely. The 009's were affected with some imbalance issue due to theories that Birgir has posted here and on the other site a dozen times. Probably Stax using a different coating or pre-mature batch of drivers.

The O2's on the other hand have been solid since release, rarely you would see anyone posting issues with those having channel imbalance. At the end of the day how the headphones are handled and stored in the type of environment condition affects whether or not the drivers will turn to cack. Humidity and direct sunlight placement of the headphones can affect the headphones overall. 

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I got my 009's in late 2011 and haven't had one problem of this imbalance, although I did have a problem with the cable last year in which I had to have a new one fitted, but I also had to have a new cable fitted to the 007mk1's I once had, this was after I'd had those 007's for 7 years.

 I got those 007mk1's in 2000 along with the SRM-007t to drive them, but let them both go in 2011 because I was never that impressed with the SQ the two produced, I've since heard 007mk1's driven by the BHSE and regret letting those mk1's I had go.🙁

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3 hours ago, Dave R said:

I got my 009's in late 2011 and haven't had one problem of this imbalance, although I did have a problem with the cable last year in which I had to have a new one fitted, but I also had to have a new cable fitted to the 007mk1's I once had, this was after I'd had those 007's for 7 years.

 I got those 007mk1's in 2000 along with the SRM-007t to drive them, but let them both go in 2011 because I was never that impressed with the SQ the two produced, I've since heard 007mk1's driven by the BHSE and regret letting those mk1's I had go.🙁

That seems to be the combo hitting the right sound signature that everyone enjoys generally.

 

The O2 MK1 with Blue Hawaii SE.

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2 hours ago, kunalraiker said:

That seems to be the combo hitting the right sound signature that everyone enjoys generally.

 

The O2 MK1 with Blue Hawaii SE.

When I ordered the BHSE early 2011, it was actually for those 007mk1's, however after hearing the Esoteric K-01 around August 2011 I stupidly used those earspeakers as part exchange for that SACD/DAC. 

Now I like to think I've only made 3 mistakes with audio gear, 1, was getting the SRM-007t, 2, letting the 007mk1's go, but by far my biggest mistake was getting that K-01, fucking idiot I am. 

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Hello,

I have a good ol' SR202 at home and I want to change the pads. I already pulled off the old pads and removed the old double sided tape but there's still a lot of thick sticky glue I struggle to remove. I tried acetone and no success thus far. 

I would like to do it properly and clean the cup before to apply the new double sided tape and the new pads. 

What method/product do you suggest usually? 

 

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@n3rdling : most of it yup. Already thought to that but for example the screws I can see are covered with glue. I can take the time to scrape that properly but I wonder if a product could help to make it perfectly clean. 

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7 hours ago, Dave R said:

When I ordered the BHSE early 2011, it was actually for those 007mk1's, however after hearing the Esoteric K-01 around August 2011 I stupidly used those earspeakers as part exchange for that SACD/DAC. 

Now I like to think I've only made 3 mistakes with audio gear, 1, was getting the SRM-007t, 2, letting the 007mk1's go, but by far my biggest mistake was getting that K-01, fucking idiot I am. 

It's a sorrowful post but hilarious at the same time 🤙

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1 hour ago, Sorrodje said:

@n3rdling : most of it yup. Already thought to that but for example the screws I can see are covered with glue. I can take the time to scrape that properly but I wonder if a product could help to make it perfectly clean. 

I have not used this in your particular case, but Goof Off Professional Strength Remover has never let me down on other nasty adhesive removal jobs. In the US, Home Depot carries it. Don't know if it is available in France/EU

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Goof-Off-16-oz-Professional-Strength-Remover-FG654/100671841

Edited by Laowei
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