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The Headcase Stax thread


thrice
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I don't see an easy way of replacing the pins. This is what audiocats did with Neutrik pin sockets: Tuitorial: How to make a "wood case friendly" stax socket with silver plated Neutrik contacts. - Head-Fi.org Community

But I already have a pair of teflon sockets, so I'm good to go. And I actually don't particularly care that the WPI pins are tin plated brass.

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Yeah, I saw that thread, I was asking because the walls of the pins for these:

10 CMC 4P Tube Socket Glod Pin Hex-Snap 2.7x13mm Hole - eBay (item 130342228210 end time Sep-01-10 05:19:43 PDT)

seems to be a bit thicker than the ones used in his mod. I'm not particularly sure if they would fit. I'll find out when I get them I guess.

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I don't see an easy way of replacing the pins. This is what audiocats did with Neutrik pin sockets: Tuitorial: How to make a "wood case friendly" stax socket with silver plated Neutrik contacts. - Head-Fi.org Community

But I already have a pair of teflon sockets, so I'm good to go. And I actually don't particularly care that the WPI pins are tin plated brass.

Thanx, I hadn't seen that article. Very Sharp

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They have switched to WPI on everything now which makes no sense to me and yeah, that's the transformer box. I compared it briefly at CJ against my Lundahl box and even the the much lower ratio of the Lundahl's they were much smoother to my ears and the bass more controlled even off the WA5.

I think the worst offense is the use of Normal jacks without plugs when the damn units are set up for Pro only bias stock. There is the potential of many damaged Normal bias Stax cans on that box. I almost plugged my precious Lambdas into it at CJ, but decided to ask, then get better clarification before I plugged in. Since they're being so cheap, how hard is it to stuff the end cap of a BIC pen into the center hole?

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So between now and when I get a working stax amp, I've been researching more on the "etchiness" people talked about in the SR-404. If my understanding is correct, this is due to the natural resonance of the drivers being in the mid-high frequencies. To remedy this, stax used glue to "fix" the drivers to the baffle in the old lambda series, and this took away the vibrational energy at those frequencies. The SR-404 used glue that was not as good as the one they used before, and the drivers could not get the same amount of adhesion to the baffle; thus the etchiness returns. Is this correct? What's a good replacement glue for the default adhesive? (Good to know if the etch drives me crazy >.>)

Also, when the driver is fixed to the baffle, doesn't the vibrational energy get carried over to the baffle as well? Does the SR-404 have thick enough of a baffle to damp it? In short, does it do tack or tock when you tap on it?

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Also, when the driver is fixed to the baffle, doesn't the vibrational energy get carried over to the baffle as well? Does the SR-404 have thick enough of a baffle to damp it? In short, does it do tack or tock when you tap on it?

The baffle is a solid piece of metal (don't know what, is it steel?), which is held down to the plastic chassis by four screws, and the pads are glued on the other side. So basically the energy goes to the entire headphone. Edit: This is assuming 404 works same way as vintage Lambdas

And I say meh to 404 etch. :P

Edited by mypasswordis
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The baffle is a solid piece of metal (don't know what, is it steel?), which is held down to the plastic chassis by four screws, and the pads are glued on the other side. So basically the energy goes to the entire headphone. Edit: This is assuming 404 works same way as vintage Lambdas
I have 202's -- you're welcome to look for yourself the next time you're over.

I am immune to the etch.

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So between now and when I get a working stax amp, I've been researching more on the "etchiness" people talked about in the SR-404. If my understanding is correct, this is due to the natural resonance of the drivers being in the mid-high frequencies. To remedy this, stax used glue to "fix" the drivers to the baffle in the old lambda series, and this took away the vibrational energy at those frequencies. The SR-404 used glue that was not as good as the one they used before, and the drivers could not get the same amount of adhesion to the baffle; thus the etchiness returns. Is this correct? What's a good replacement glue for the default adhesive? (Good to know if the etch drives me crazy >.>)

Also, when the driver is fixed to the baffle, doesn't the vibrational energy get carried over to the baffle as well? Does the SR-404 have thick enough of a baffle to damp it? In short, does it do tack or tock when you tap on it?

I did fix one set of drivers permanently to the baffle and while it did make a difference, it was quite small and certainly didn't fix the midrange peak of the SR-404. Going by my experience with the SR-007Mk2/A this shout has more to do with the distance from the drivers to the ears which is why my well worn set doesn't have any. Either that or it is an Airbow SR-SC1 with the label on the plug removed...

The baffle is a solid piece of metal (don't know what, is it steel?), which is held down to the plastic chassis by four screws, and the pads are glued on the other side. So basically the energy goes to the entire headphone. Edit: This is assuming 404 works same way as vintage Lambdas

And I say meh to 404 etch. :P

The baffle is aluminum and it is quite thick, 3-4mm.

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I wish there were a way to make a sub-topic. Replying to the thread can get tiresome to search! My question is about the resistors that are INSIDE the phones. If there is a 5M ballast resistor already inside the amplifier, what is the purpose of the resistors that are inside the cans (no one says "cans" around here :-))? At least the last time I replaced the cable on my SR-5's, I found a resistor inside each phone. Next time I have one open I'll measure it!

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There have been rumors of a premium Lambda for some time now but I still don't see the point of it. Now if they had taken the 4070 and simply changed the cup design it would be killer but this...

spritzer-albums-stax-picture3451-7db840f5-161033654-l.jpg

spritzer-albums-stax-picture3450-img-6498t.jpg

spritzer-albums-stax-picture3449-86611.jpg

spritzer-albums-stax-picture3447-1743a6d7-161033705-l.jpg

spritzer-albums-stax-picture3448-86613.jpg

I'm not so sure...

I wish there were a way to make a sub-topic. Replying to the thread can get tiresome to search! My question is about the resistors that are INSIDE the phones. If there is a 5M ballast resistor already inside the amplifier, what is the purpose of the resistors that are inside the cans (no one says "cans" around here :-))? At least the last time I replaced the cable on my SR-5's, I found a resistor inside each phone. Next time I have one open I'll measure it!

These bridge the two stators and protect them for voltage over 450V so you can damage the diaphragm

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It has nothing to do with age, iirc it's around the 2-3kHz range so no way a part of age-induced hearing loss of HF.
I don't think it's hearing loss, I think it's psychological. So I guess the correct retort would have been, "can't wait until I'm that mentally challenged"...No, wait, forget I said that.

I would also presume that if it was pronounced enough, I'd probably start being annoyed by it, so I am specifically saying that I am immune to the etch as implemented in Stax headphones. Grados, on the other hand...

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