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The Headcase Stax thread


thrice
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ERS paper over the fets. Try to cover both the heatsink and the tab of the fet for maximum benefit.

Don't forget to make sure that it's grounded or else it won't shield properly. That's the way to the blackest background, of course you won't get an audio either. ;)
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Don't forget to make sure that it's grounded or else it won't shield properly. That's the way to the blackest background, of course you won't get an audio either. ;)

:stick:

yeah, I learned this the hard way.... me <- stupid

First, why the hell did I even want to use ERS paper? and second, why did I stick it the bottom of a PCB? :stick: I have to say this ranks right up there with some of the stupidest things I've ever done.

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We've all been there.

One of my bigger f-ups was wiring the output of the first balanced amp wrong and not only cooking the headphones (thankfully just KSC75s) but the amp managed to blow itself up as well. I think there were other issues with the amp to begin with (flawed, untested design) but even the second one I built only lasted a half hour before it fried itself as well. Nothing like flushing $400+ down the toilet.

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I could probably give it a shot.

That would be great. The ED-1 opens up just like the SRM-1/Mk2 by removing the 3 upper screws on each side of the chassis. If you're up for it, removing the bottom would be even better as Stax normally puts the resistors there.

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That's some funny shit right there. DIY while doing drugs sounds best.

My most recent almost fuckup... forgetting Koss transformer speaker connector wire colors don't correspond to their Stax counterparts, connect it up and go do something else for a wee while. Didn't realize my amp could get that hot and not melt. I think you can safely say my amp got as close to it's full burn-in potential as it's ever going to get without burning my house down. :stick: Thankfully everything still works quite happily.

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And I was talking about looking for whatever board files are out there, new, old, yet to be done. Doesn't matter a bit to me. If all that's available are shitty old board files then lets re-do them. I may be an ass but I don't generally do things half-assed. I'm a whole ass, damnit.

And never to be one to disappoint Nate, try http://home.swbell.net/pabbi/kgss-fabfiles.zip as one of the 'designs'. He did get one working, using this http://home.swbell.net/pabbi/kgss_parts.xls BOM... sort of, with the old Headwize PSU, I think... he had a web site at UT Dallas, which is long gone.

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Yeah... back from the dead, more like unshrouded. Now, where were we with the Marc / Spritzer BH? You could make all this KGSS silliness go away... well, or publish your KGSS recipe... ;-)

Ordering parts for a balanced Bijou... no west for the ricked.

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I posted this over on HF but it deserves to be here as well. I've had my issues with the new SR-007 ever since I got them and ever since I opened them up I've wanted to try and eliminate the damned midbass hump. This morning I ripped them apart and plugged the port with some blutack and my predictions proved correct. The midbass hump is completely gone and the excelent bass of the Mk1 has appeared which is leaner but extends all the way down towards DC. The A/Mk2 has a light coloration on all male voices and it's mostly gone now but it's so recording dependent and subtle that further testing is needed. The port was put into the cable assembly to combat the fart issue if the Mk1 so once it's plugged the ear chamber is airtight and they fart just like the Mk1. Some further testing with foam and felt is needed to try and find a middle ground by damping the port instead of just shutting it completely. Anybody who has replaced an earpad on a SR-007 knows how much of a pain that is and dong it once can drive somebody mad let alone dozen or so times... :o

Further testing is needed to show just how different the Mk1 and Mk2/A are after the mod but the added comfort of the new ear and headpads place the Mk2/A ahead if they sound roughly the same. The earpads are rather different so I don't expect the two phones to sound identical but they should be close.

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Further testing is needed to show just how different the Mk1 and Mk2/A are after the mod but the added comfort of the new ear and headpads place the Mk2/A ahead if they sound roughly the same. The earpads are rather different so I don't expect the two phones to sound identical but they should be close.

Great job with finding the port!! I tried taking off the earpads but did not want to disassemble it further...

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