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Pars

Power switch recommendation

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For the dynahi I am building (in the builds thread), I would like to use one of the vandal switches (like a Bulgin) in blue ring. What would you recommend, and if it needs anything to run it (SS relay, E24 board or whatever) note any recommendations there also. Not sure I want to mess with another transformer/PCB, but will if it is worth it.

Case is a hifi2000 Pessante Dis. I have both silver and black faceplates, but was leaning towards black for this one. I will have the faceplate done by either FPE or the other place on the east coast (if I can figure their S/W out :palm:

Thanks for any thoughts.

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Vandal Resistant Switches - 22mm : Performance-PCs.com, ... sleeve it and they will come

The e24 and SS relay work pretty slick. You can also get the little transformer board the go along with e24. More parts/cost but it works pretty good plus if you want to you can add some over temp protection.

Now the switches linked to above are not rated for it but they do come in a latching version and you could use a A/C relay and run line voltage through them to power the relay. Then you could power the LED of the power supply. I personally wouldn't go this route.

And the place on the east coast can use the FPE files. Only have to learn one piece of software ;)

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With a latching switch you just need a small transformer/PSU to drive the relay that consumes next to no power. Use an IEC inlet with a power switch and you are good to go.

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Thanks. I assume the IEC power switch powers the whole thing down. With the IEC switch ON, it would be wired so that the small transformer for the relay is powered? I also seem to recall seeing some dual LED vandal switches? I had thought at one time that I could get a red/blue and have the red illuminated when there was power (i.e., back switch ON), and switch to blue or second color when the front panel/amp AC is ON?

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I would recommend doing what I did on the Ventus and just use an AC relay on the mains with a latching switch.

121629299.jpg

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Thanks. I assume the IEC power switch powers the whole thing down. With the IEC switch ON, it would be wired so that the small transformer for the relay is powered? I also seem to recall seeing some dual LED vandal switches? I had thought at one time that I could get a red/blue and have the red illuminated when there was power (i.e., back switch ON), and switch to blue or second color when the front panel/amp AC is ON?

Yup, with the IEC off there is no power at all. With a 5VA transformer or less the "standby" circuit would eat up very little power. I'm thinking about doing something similar to the transformer boxes I'm working on, one transformer for the relays/indicator led and a second one for the bias supply.

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I also seem to recall seeing some dual LED vandal switches? I had thought at one time that I could get a red/blue and have the red illuminated when there was power (i.e., back switch ON), and switch to blue or second color when the front panel/amp AC is ON?

The E24 can utilise dual colour switches, but not for power on/off. It is set up to change colour on an error condition; usually tripping of a thermistor.

I set up my Buffalo DAC to change the colour of a dual LED switch when SPDIF lock is obtained. Definitely neat switches if you have a sensible way of triggering them.

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Revisiting this again (lighted vandal type power switch). For the DynaFet, if I used a latching switch such as Birgir uses (250V 5A rating), though it is simple, the AC wiring from the IEC to the switch would need to run right under a GRLV in the front, which I don't really want to do.

Using an e24 (and probably the o24 transformer board) mounted back by the IEC, only DC wiring would go to a momentary switch (Bulgin, eSwitch or the like) in the front. IEC would be switched and power the o24/e24. A power relay (the Omron G8P-1A2T-F-DC12 recommended isn't available, so maybe a G7L series Omron) would be run off the e24 to power the main transformer/GRLV.

I know john uses the e24s a lot. How many use this or something similar, vs. the latching direct AC-switches?

 

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Chris, if I can find it - I have a nice companion board to the e24 that mounts a power relay in the exact same PCB mounting pattern (edit: as the Crysom SSR that amb was suggesting. I made this board as that configuration was a hum generator like you wouldn’t believe). I have one running in an amp and need two more. If I have extras, it’s yours. Otherwise we can run some more.

 

I have just finished a new circuit that that I would like to turn into a e24 replacement when I get time. It is the fixed version of this:

 

https://www.head-case.org/forums/uploads/monthly_2017_02/58b4f1a297001_ScreenShot2017-02-27at9_40_03PM.png.c7f8f3b1a31f403b127566da27645324.png

 

It is running in my TT PSU now and while I have an extra board, it probably needs a more generic layout that looses the micro controller inputs. It is small enough that it might fit on the back of a o24-like transformer board, providing an all in one.

 

 

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There are also drop in replacement for the Omron relays by Panasonic. I think my board will take JTN1S-PA-F-DC12V or the Omron (now EOLed?) G8P-1C4P DC12

 

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That looks interesting Marc. Keep me informed as I might be interested in this approach.

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I think it’s just a matter of what format would be useful for people. I could see having a small standby transformer board and a separate driver switch / relay combination board. We could also do it all in one. If we can decide on what the physical dimensions would be and a few people are interested, I will draw up the boards.

 

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An all in one would be nice, with some sort of PCB mounted xfmr. Seems like the EI-30 types that Amb spec'd are harder to find these days.


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An all in one would be nice, with some sort of PCB mounted xfmr. Seems like the EI-30 types that Amb spec'd are harder to find these days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The bits to run the switch are much more low power than the original design. If we can find a small transformer and suitable relay, the rest is easy. Check out Pulse for some options as well as Zettler (which would probably be sold via Allied). Myrra and Block are two other vendors off the top of my head.

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Anyone has any cool idea for T2 powerswitch with LED that don’t tap into 15 and 500 V ? Or should we just go ....no LeD

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Why are you concerned about using the 15V supply for this? Minuscule current draw if it is just the switch LED.


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1 minute ago, Pars said:

Why are you concerned about using the 15V supply for this? Minuscule current draw if it is just the switch LED.


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Uhm, I just want the T2 to be “almost” perfect, so I don’t want to Tap into any of it Power :D .

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Then you should train a hamster to plug it in and forgo any switch.

And before anybody makes the comment, no, I don't have any extra hamsters.

  • Haha 1

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1 hour ago, Whitigir said:

Anyone has any cool idea for T2 powerswitch with LED that don’t tap into 15 and 500 V ? Or should we just go ....no LeD

It is 12v, and what is the 500v for?

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Well, some one gave me an idea to do RBG for the indicator for LV delay, and then Hv illumination too.  I have not thought of doing that, the closest is the 12V (corrected).  However, I still want to try to keep the amp as pure as possible without nothing Tap into it Power run.

50 minutes ago, swt61 said:

Then you should train a hamster to plug it in and forgo any switch.

And before anybody makes the comment, no, I don't have any extra hamsters.

This is the coolest idea, though, not very practical as I don’t think 1 HP (hamster Power) can do it.

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It probably has a capacitor dropper in there.  Now how they crammed a cap in there that is large enough and with a proper safety rating is a bit dubious... 

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