chiguy Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) I've bought teflon wire from http://www.awcwire.com/ in the past. It's so much better than PVC insulated wire. Edited April 15, 2015 by chiguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 that is the company I buy from, but I go for the Teflon. its more expensive, but I have the right stripper and always liked Teflon. What stripper do you use for the Teflon - I always strip by hand, which is a pain (the sickos can read this any way they want). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) 1. Any advantage of Teflon over PVC? 2. Also, would like to know which insulated shrink tube you guys recommend. Edited April 15, 2015 by eggil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiguy Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Teflon doesn't melt like PVC when you solder it. I generally prefer the 3:1 shrink ratio heatshrink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Ideal T-strippers work well on teflon, and any other wire. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwl168 Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Thanks all for your responses. I bought a bunch of Belden 83006 from hndme.com for this build. 22AWG, 19X34, silver platter copper, multistrand wire with Teflon coating. Rated at 600V, 200C. Easy and nice to work with. I primarily bought them for B+ wiring. I'll use them for wiring the amp to the socket as well. To eggil's question; I've read that Teflon insulation is preferred due to its superior dialectic property. I also find it to have good resistance to heat while soldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 I've always like using the Neotech UPOCC teflon/copper solid for signal, and it is rated for 600V. Kinda stupid expensive though. Probably some snake-oil factor to it as well. http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/neotech-wire-teflon-solid-cu-c-296_175_183_221 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laowei Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html#TefloN For shorter lengths of Teflon silver coated copper wire,I have bought from APEX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwl168 Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 I have music! Wired up XLR connectors and the headphone socket from Justin. Hooked up the Buffalo DAC to the KGSSHV, plugged in the SR007, I have been listening to music for the past 2 hours and had a hard time pulling myself away from it to do anything else. Many many thanks again to Kevin for the ingenious design and Birgir, John, Pars and many others that helped me make this possible. Although I do not have anything other than a multimeter to test the amp and PSU, the KGSSHV is dead silent without signal feed. I think this can serve as a validation that the KGSSHVAMPV16MINI and KGSSHVPSMINIFINALSTN9360 Gerber files and resulting PCBs are good. Now I have to decide if I should continue to listen to music or get to bed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 Congrats! Pics or it didn't happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwmclean Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 Congrats Michael! Congrats! Pics or it didn't happen ^ This Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wink Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 I havent seen any pics of your latest builds, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 I have music! Wired up XLR connectors and the headphone socket from Justin. Hooked up the Buffalo DAC to the KGSSHV, plugged in the SR007, I have been listening to music for the past 2 hours and had a hard time pulling myself away from it to do anything else. Many many thanks again to Kevin for the ingenious design and Birgir, John, Pars and many others that helped me make this possible. Although I do not have anything other than a multimeter to test the amp and PSU, the KGSSHV is dead silent without signal feed. I think this can serve as a validation that the KGSSHVAMPV16MINI and KGSSHVPSMINIFINALSTN9360 Gerber files and resulting PCBs are good. Now I have to decide if I should continue to listen to music or get to bed... Ha ha! Go to bed! And well deserved congratulations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwmclean Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 I havent seen any pics of your latest builds, John. My latest KGSSHV off board, sans volume pot is a ways off. I've completed the chassis design and have fpe files ready to go. I'm using HeatsinkUSA's 10inch profiles, which I'll get CamExpert to drill along with the other panels. The brackets are all going to be made my me, lots of cutting drilling and tapping to be done. I've been catching up on drilling technique for accurately positioned holes... I hate drilling period, but I've invested in some nice tools, so hopefully fingers crossed I'll get good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoaMat Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 I have music!... ... Now I have to decide if I should continue to listen to music or get to bed... Congrats! I took the hammer drill and ran a hole - big enough for Stax extension cable - through the wall to bedroom. Now I listen in bed. Still married. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aive Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 My latest KGSSHV off board, sans volume pot is a ways off. I've completed the chassis design and have fpe files ready to go. I'm using HeatsinkUSA's 10inch profiles, which I'll get CamExpert to drill along with the other panels. The brackets are all going to be made my me, lots of cutting drilling and tapping to be done. I've been catching up on drilling technique for accurately positioned holes... I hate drilling period, but I've invested in some nice tools, so hopefully fingers crossed I'll get good results. What nice tools you end up getting? (Always keen to learn how to do metal work better) I bought a Ryobi drill press from Bunnings, it is inaccurate like fck, gotta do a lot of manual compensation to get holes positioned... I think a simple centre punch will go a long way to drilling better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 I took the hammer drill and ran a hole - big enough for Stax extension cable - through the wall to bedroom. Now I listen in bed. Still married. coconut audio (patrick82) did stuff like this... be careful, its a slippery slope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 sounds like a pretty ideal solution for the t2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 coconut audio (patrick82) did stuff like this... be careful, its a slippery slope It must be in the Swedish water... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 He just needs to add another hole for the volume pot shaft extension... and maybe another for a power switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoaMat Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) / Edited November 11, 2015 by JoaMat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwl168 Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 (edited) Congrats! Pics or it didn't happen I will try post some pics tomorrow. This KGSSHV and SR007 combo is very addictive. I cannot stop listening to it. I went almost 5 hours straight last night listening to one piece after another. I am a newbie to the electrostatic transducer world but have been in the audiophile hobby for more than 30 years and I am hearing things I have not previously experienced. I am hooked. On another note, I am finding out the same thing others have reported - the temperature affects the offset quite a bit (but not the balance). The weather has gotten warmer yesterday and I could not get one channel's offset to below 5V. It's a bit cooler today and I mounted the heatsinks to the chassis which also contributes to the lower running temprature and I have no problem getting the offset on both channels to zero. I had planned to replace the 2K resistor in serie with the offset pot but may not need to do that any more. Hope sharing this experience will help some new builders. I have not plug the servo ICs in yet - want to observe a bit more so I have a better handle on how the balance and offset behave. Back to more music! Edited April 19, 2015 by mwl168 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwmclean Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 What nice tools you end up getting? (Always keen to learn how to do metal work better) I bought a Ryobi drill press from Bunnings, it is inaccurate like fck, gotta do a lot of manual compensation to get holes positioned... I think a simple centre punch will go a long way to drilling better Just some centre drill bits and an automatic centre punch nothing too exciting, my drill press is a Ryobi from Bunnings as well and it sure is quirky... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoaMat Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 (edited) / Edited November 11, 2015 by JoaMat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwl168 Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 If I remember correct I replaced 2K resistor with 1.5K to be able to zero out offset. Maybe we should consult member Kerry for a fully automatic offset control. Look at this On hindsight, I should have started with 1.5K instead of 2K in the R26 position. I had planned to do so while I was planning for the build just forgot about it when I sourced parts. I read Kerry's post but don't understand it - how does it differ from the servo on the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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