Helium
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Posts posted by Helium
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Quick question. Do I need to cut T2 PCB in halves to separate GNDs if I'm making dual PS, one for each channel (double the number of PS boards and double the number of transformers)?
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If you are making a separate +15/-15VDC power supply board (GRLV), you can do with two Bias GRHV PCBs.
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On 7/6/2019 at 6:01 PM, mwl168 said:
For this compensation cap in the feedback circuit, does it pay to use Mica caps instead of ceramic caps?
If you use MLCC C0G/NP0 grade, I doubt the difference will be audible. Or, MLCC will be even better. At least amb votes for them:
https://www.amb.org/forum/about-building-beta24-t3688-10.html?hilit=mica#p34356
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Beautiful!
Kerry, how did you treat the chassis to achieve polished surface?
Seems to be steel, not aluminum?
Is is mechanically polished or galvanized?
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12 hours ago, kevin gilmore said:
coming soon, synchronous diode bridge using lt4320 and power fets
lower dropout voltage, much less switching noise
Can you keep the physical size and standoff hole placement same to GRLV with RS402L (goldenreference6d.zip)?
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Just wanted to share one of my most favorite acquisitions among hundreds of manual and electric tools.
Heinrich deep throat is capable to punch holes in the center of 400mm panel (hello large enclosures like Modushop Slimline).
No burrs, very clean holes, any hole is perfectly perpendicular to surface, and waaayy more accurately positioned than made by drill bit as you can never avoid drill bit wandering. Precision is close to CNC milling.
I also use smaller punch Roper Whitney XX with smaller throat.
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On 2/9/2019 at 6:46 AM, Kerry said:
Just got this tapping guide.
SHARS Self Aligning Tap Holder
I'm really happy with it and thought I'd share
Apparently a good tool, will get one. Wish it had No-mar teflon face like some countersink microstop limiters.
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1 hour ago, AngelWing said:
2. 2 Golden reference HV and LV Boards
You will need 1 x HV board with bias section and 1 x HV with +/- 15VDC low voltage section. If you populate +/- 15VDC low voltage section on one of HV boards, you don't need separate GRLV board. If you go with separate GRLV board (more luxury solution), you can use either single GRLV board producing both positive and negative 15VDC, or split boards, each producing +15VDC and -15VDC.
Also, if you go with separate GRLV board, you can do with 2 x HV boards with bias section (saves money if you order boards at PCB house). You need to populate bias section on one them only.
1 hour ago, AngelWing said:3. 2 KGSSHV Carbon boards.
Correct.
1 hour ago, AngelWing said:1. It looks like KGSSHV is a balanced input amp. What will it require so that I can run it unbalanced?
Nothing required. It will accept unbalanced input as well, sound volume will be less.
1 hour ago, AngelWing said:2. This image here: https://www.head-case.org/forums/uploads/monthly_2015_12/IMG_1617.JPG.8b2de600707a2057508ca7688eae8dd6.JPG has what it seems like 7815 linear regulator and no GRLV so is GRLV really required? Ignore the shoddy wiring(will not follow it).
7815 is noisier than GRLV. GRLV presumably produces cleaner +/-15VDC. Piece of advise: go with amb's Sigma22 for low voltage. Much cheaper than GRLV to buid.
1 hour ago, AngelWing said:3. This seems to be using a GRLVDual of some sort:https://www.head-case.org/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/571e4255cfd2c_P_20160425_2358271.jpg.ee96baecdcf1a5953c86c401e05d2bdf.jpg is it as good as using 2 GRLV?
That is single +/- GRLV. You can go with split positive and negative GRLVs, as mentioned above.
1 hour ago, AngelWing said:4. Can I keep my ODAC amp in same enclosure maybe shielded ? Is ODAC good pairing?
Not recommended IMHO. What if you need to upgrade your DAC in the future?
1 hour ago, AngelWing said:5. What are Opto servos?
Not needed for Carbon (=no tubes). Leave unpopulated.
1 hour ago, AngelWing said:6. Lastly a loaded question. What will be the best way to make GRLV and GRHV so as to use least amount of components and not sacrifice lots of quality? It seems there are various designs of the PSU and I would like to save some money if possible.
Use GRHV onboard low voltage section, if you want to cut costs. Or use Sigma22 instead of GRLV, and order 2 x HV bias boards instead of 1 x HVbias + 1 x HV w/low voltage.
Really not many options to save money. Most expensive parts are main filter caps (40 USD/ea, and you need 4 of them), balanced potentiometer of your choice, transformer(s) and casework. None can be dropped out.
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Actually it depends of user's cables. If these are highly capacitive, it may start to oscillate, who knows. Ferrite _may_ help with it.
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For me it doesn't look like IC (THAT) related issue. Does the hiss increase as he turns the volume up? If yes, then it's likely to be some grounding issue. Otherwise it may be oscillation (though I don't know if dynalo is prone to oscillation). Let him try to temporarily fasten hinged ferrite cores on either headphone cable or input cables or both and see if it makes difference.
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24 minutes ago, jose said:
I mean STN9360
Digikey? Bought from them 1 week ago 50 pcs, still available.
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Hmm, Mouser has C2M1000170D in stock. I bought 12 pcs week ago, and they are still available. Am I missing anything?
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There is plenty of 1N4007 diodes. P/N E3/54 you provided is just a package type. Search another one, this generic diode cannot be out of stock for sure.
Same for 0.1uF 50V. There are tons of alternatives. If you would like to stick to Kemet, try searching Kemet 315, 320 series as well. 100V is OK also. Just mind lead spacing.
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8 hours ago, swampsong said:
What's wrong with these boards? By new boards do you mean published a week ago?
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Question to Mr. Gilmore: Any chance to see your photos linked in this thread?
Particularly about T2 build progress (making enclosure, stuffing the boards etc. Actually I'd love to see all of them). Could they be uploaded somewhere?
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amb explained here, same for susy dynalo:
https://www.amb.org/forum/susy-dynahi-v2-t2868.html#p26515
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Payment sent. Thanks!
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Thank you jose and spritzer.
Thanks for the hint to have valve inserted. I usually do the same when soldering Mill-Max DIP sockets in order to prevent pins from moving when socket plastic is heated.
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Stupid question. Now searching for tube socket for KGST, GG and BH.
Lot's of options. Aside from the material they are made of (bakelite, ceramic, teflon), I'm stuck at terminal type.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301444050005
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301838302161
Are these gold pins really intended to be soldered into PCB? Will solder adhere to gold plated surface?
Or better look for sockets with leaf terminals?
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Hi Steve, any idea what price will be for TKD 4CP-2500 10K if I add 4 units? If it's not too late of course. Total count will be 7+4=11, which is over 10.
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Is that clear type LED 1.7Vf? It must be 1.7Vf (usually red color).
Fill with solder all vias. Helps to reduce overall impedance of PCB.
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On 29.06.2016 at 5:33 PM, spritzer said:
But you just install a switch which grounds the - input for SE. Hell, just make two XLR plugs with pins 1 and 3 tied internally.
Can anyone confirm please that output power is the same in case of using SE inputs? Any drawbacks?
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6 hours ago, penmarker said:
I turned the lower left/right trimmers all the way down again and turned it back on, and the offset was only 1mV. Then I tried biasing them back up to 270mV and the bias stayed low. I switched it off, and then after a few minutes switched it on again and the offset shot back up to around 3-4V and drifted down to several hundred mV. I repeated this with min 140mV bias, switching off/on, working all the way up to 200mV where the offset stayed low without displaying the erratic behaviour.
Why are you biasing to 270mV only? With off-board heatsink, dynahi must be biased to 750mV (and even more if you like and as long as temperature is OK). With onboard heatsink, half of that (375mV) or more as long as temperature is OK.
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On 14.03.2018 at 12:42 AM, steefdebruijn said:
If they all are mentioned in the first post, I think we miss the board files for the "Unbal/Bal Tube w PSU". The PSU is there (grhv100v) but the Unbal/Bal board itself seems not.
But did anyone confirm that they are good for order (no errors ets.)?
The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
in Do It Yourself
Posted · Edited by Helium
Thanks, I've already start thinking angle grinder FTW to butcher my nice completed T2 PCB.
Just kidding, I would do it on CNC if that happened. Kevin, so how do I wire, simply each PS board to each channel (=half T2 board)? I'm afraid I will encounter heavy ground loops.