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Posts posted by Lil' Knight
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Thanks.
Heck, it took me almost an hour to put the stuffs back...
I found it funny that they need 2 solder joints to connect each wire to the tab.
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Covering the holes with some bluetak (on the black plate) brought back the fart on my set. (#SZ2-1728)
Mine is SZ2-1731 lol. Not to far from yours.
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If you are up for removing the earpads and see what is going on then that would be great. I still have the pics of my first SR-007A so it would be easy to compare.
Not sure if these help, but there you go:
I dare not to go deeper
Not sure if there's something else behind.
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The problem with any Mk2/A comparisons is that we don't know what Stax have done to those particular sets. It was quite clear at CanJam that Stax have modified the new models to suck less than the first ones but I'm not sure what they did. Anybody know about any cheap Mk2's for me to buy?
I've just received a new set of SR007A directly from Japan. I might be able to help check that.
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Here's the design number from SumR if anyone needs it:
The design # RC0120 064 1.+ 2x 485v/100mA
+ 36VCT/500mA
With Primary 2 x 115V.
A/ Encapsulated into toroid container: US $ 96/e
B/ Without container, but with core band for shielding: US $ 75/e.
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Quick question although I know all of this is highly subjective due to people's ears, equipment, etc: Roughly how many hours would you say you've put into that Wyred Dac-2?
I don't think I could remember how long I've put into the DAC-2. Sometimes I just fell asleep and left them play all night. One reason I found it too dry is my amp (B22) and headphones (HD800,K1000) are also very sterile. I just feel I need something smoother, warmer. I have a local dealer but they charge like $3,500 for the PWD.
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The Wyred DAC-2 and at a little lower league, a DIY AD1865 tube DAC. The Wyred has more sterile sound, while, to my ears, the PWD is is a tad warmer. I might say it's more musical. Both have excellent details but as mentioned, the PWD is just so nice that I can consider switching to it.
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PS Audio - PerfectWave DAC : More Info Far right upper corner
Have you contacted PS Audio directly? They often times will inventory B stock/specialty items but not update the website in a timely manner, it is worth a shot.
I did ask but they don't have any B-stock 230v version now. I'm using a 1.5kW isolation transformer that can output both 230v and 115v but it's better to convert voltage in the DAC directly, imo.
I spent some time playing with the PWD+Transport at my friend's house a couple days ago. The sound is really nice, but honestly, not really better than my current DAC. The build and features, on the hand, are absolutely amazing.
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Sorry to bump the thread. I'm thinking of getting a PWD but not sure if it could be converted to 230v AC. The only clear pic of the transformer I could find is the one from 6moons:
The dealer wants $200 to do the conversion, which I never want to do.
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Having been down this track with the T2, what you need is an insulating bush that goes through the transistor tab, and then well into the 4171G. If it is a short bush, the transistor tab isolation is compromised. You have to draw a cross section picture to see this clearly.
The ones that work well are the Aavid 7721-3PPSG. These can be a tight fit in some TO220 holes, but the bush length is 1/8" (3.18mm), which is more than enough with conductive (steel) screws and nuts. I prefer steel fixings because you can get the torque required - I tried plastic screws, but they always strip at a small fraction of the recommended TO220 package fixing torque.
Future have 675 in reserve stock and 14,000 on order.
So, basically any shoulder washer that has enough length would be just fine? I still a bunch left from my Beta22 build. Wondering if I could use them...
Also, would this aluminum oxide insulator work for lower voltage MOSFETs like the ones in the Beta? If it's better, in term of heat transmitting, than the thermasil I'm using, I'll just buy a bunch and replace the thermasil.
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Amazon.com: Ceramic Socket Cap Screw, Slotted Drive, #4-40, 3/4" Length (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific
i really underestimated the price...
but with no shoulder washer needed you can probably fit #6-32 in most transistor tabs
Just when I though $5 for a screw is too much for my blood.
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BTW, I'm confused about the 4171G 'washer'. The BOM says
4171G thermaloywasher for 4171g
Are those 2 different things? One of those should be this one, right?
Also, should the nuts be something special or just a standard one would be just fine?
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747-dsep12-12a dioded are restricted export from Mouser.
ebay. search for dsep12-12a.
Digikey also has 4171G al oxide washers. Problem is minimum ammount is 1,000 pieces. Not too good if 3 or 7 are required.
Try mouser 532-4170 (smaller size) or here.
Neither Mouser or Digikey had 100uF 50V caps. Will source them locally, probably WES Electronics.
I doubt. there should be a boatload of these caps. very standard values.
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Just click Show Similar to get some other options. Panasonic do have all the caps needed.
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<500$ for a quad-gang? $1k each is quad-gang.
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Looks like the Ixys dsep12-12a is out of stock at Mouser. Is there any equivalent there?
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Mine is coming together, the boards just fit inside the case. (Par-Metal 20-16164)
How many vent columns at the bottom does your case has? I'm asking because from what I saw on the drawing on their website, it should have 4 like the top, no?
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I've got some. Want me to send you a pair?
Yes, please.
I must have missed it, but what is the peak-to-peak voltage of this amp? The original KGSS has 1200V p-p if I don't mistaken.
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I couldn't find a distributor for the LSK389. Any suggestion where to find them?
Just in case, could I just replace them with these? 4 X RARE MATCHED 2SK170 2SK170V FET - eBay (item 380269420276 end time Dec-14-10 04:58:05 PST)
How closely match for the 2SK170 should I look for?
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FWIW, There is also a pair of .47uf/50v caps on each amp board that are not shown on the BOM or the schematic.
That's also what I saw.
In the PSU, this
2 C5,C10 .1uF4 C17-C20 .1uF/1000v
should be 6 C5,C10,C17-C20 .1uf/1000v ,right?
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Are these supposed to be the latest rev? There are some caps that I didn't see in the BOM.
amp http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvproduction.jpg
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Thanks!
the info is in the BOM. Simply look up the listed part and check its spacing and go from there.Just want to make sure because originally, the BOM was made by struts and I'm not sure if he had the right lead spacings. http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/8452-im-roll-kgsshv-5.html#post380076
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Dr Gilmore,
May I know the lead spacing of the 0.1uf/1000v, 100uf/450v and 680uf/450v caps on the PCB?
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I've just skimmed pcx to see if I could find anything to take advantage of their 20% off. Just wondering if I could replace the ixys10m90s with this http://www.partsconnexion.com/product7566.html?
Also, how does this http://www.partsconnexion.com/product1290.html compare with the one on the BOM?
i'm on a roll... the kgsshv
in Do It Yourself
Posted
Stopped by my friend's house today to pick up the PCBs and transformer built by him. Looked great so far, despite the messed-up PCB's color. I'll try to populate the resistors tomorrow, when my gf is busy at the mall.