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Victor Chew

High Rollers
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Posts posted by Victor Chew

  1. Wachara, I am glad that it has been fixed. Looking at your first picture, the short looks like it was caused a cut in the pcb. My guess is that when the amp gets hot and the cap expands and if soldered near the pcb, the cap's sleeve could have cut the solder resist. 

  2. Congratulations on your power up. I am curious as to what was it that you saw in the cap that made you think that it was defective. I have always assumed that when it comes to parts from mouser I never have to worry. I guess nothing can be taken for granted.

  3. I'm using the 1968s. So would I lower the value of the 2k resistor then (R26)? I'll probably just leave it at 10mA though, not going to be running anything but a lambda with it for a while.

    I was running at 34v (using ixys parts) when I ran out of turns. Lowered R26 to 1.2k and the problem was fixed. I believe that current variation is the same as the ixys parts, you may want to try dropping it to 1.5k. For some strange reason, both my on-board and off-board suffered the same problem.
  4. Railgun

    I've got about 200V across those zeners so it looks like that may be an issue...

    I would have a look at the 24v zener and the 2n3904. They are part of the protection circuit. Any leak can cause a pull in the current and drop the zener string voltage.

    Incidentally, I finished building my off board. Made a sound comparison to my on-board and for some reason, the off-board has huge bass (not bloated or loose) and seems to have more power/drive than my on board. Everything is the same except that the off-board uses the alpha port instead of the dact on my on-board. Wires are also different - on-board used copper whilst the off-board uses copper coated with silver. Just an interesting observation I though to share.

    And as again, thank you to Kevin for the design.

  5. As far as I understand, this is to avoid the possibility of ground plane shorting the cap. For some reason arcing occured between the two in jwzhan KGSShv build blowing a hole in the circuit board. Could have been caused by cracked cap covering which cut through the solder resist resulting in arcing. Its rare but did happen to jwzhan.

  6. Slightly more parts than the original (ie. addition of 24v zener, ik resistors etc). I assume better current regulation. The 40 kdt has also been corrected to 20kdt. Previously missing 1k resistor has also been added. I believe this makes checking, for those of us that have built the older version, easier with comparison against this updated version. Thanks Kevin. ::)

  7. Thanks Pars. Might take up your advice and go with the 445. Infact, that is what Kevin said I sould do, but I am a bit of a stubborn muel.  Trouble is that I will have to desolder the 7812 and 7912 (yes, by mistake instead of the "15"), which would still work and on top of that I bought quite a few of those regulators and opa27 as well. 

  8. According to Kevin some older opamps lock up and cause trouble. best to use opa445 and no regulators.

    For jumper pins accross the 7815 and 7915 its on page 3 or 4. However, 445 costs quite a bit more.

     

    I am still going with opa27 and regulators.

     

    I have finished populating but not got the time to get the heatsink "L" brackets done yet.

     

  9. I too have gone abit paranoid about not being able to get parts and have lately been doing some search. Ebay has lots of parts that come up from time to time but I am not really sure if they are real and if fake, their specs are ok and can be used.

    I am constantly thinking that I will need parts to do the builds and also I must have extra parts if things go wrong or for future repairs. If I can't get the parts then I am screwed. The search for the silicon "gold" continues.

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