livewire
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Posts posted by livewire
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Mine is coming together, the boards just fit inside the case. (Par-Metal 20-16164)
Waiting for the trafo to get here to finish the build.
(mouse-over or click to enlarge)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]4017[/ATTACH]
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Please keep in mind that the listed price does not reflect a "group buy".
I had a small run of these made, therefore the price is substantially higher.
No profit is being made by me. I am selling them to recoup my costs.
I wanted to sell them here at HC due to the original KGSSHV thread being here
but due to my newbie status, I do not have access to the for sale forum on this board.
I will not be offering any more board sets when these are gone.
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Thank you sir.
And I thought that the Vette's battery's "early" demise was due to excessively cold winters.
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I just noticed that the amp board R8 and R9 are shown as 500 ohms on the BOM and the schematic.
The silkscreen on the amp pcb shows R8 and R9 as 600 ohms.
Which R value is correct?
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I'll fix the led quantity thing much later today. There were 7 or 8 other errors i found and
fixed yesterday as i was ordering parts.
I've ordered all the parts i can from mouser, should be in by friday.
Will order the rest of the parts from digikey.
Those are the latest schematics, the only part that does not show up should be the 5 pf caps.
Something else i will fix later.
FWIW, There is also a pair of .47uf/50v caps on each amp board that are not shown on the BOM or the schematic.
Sorry if this may be construed as nit picking, the 2K pot silkscreened legend is missing on the amp boards.
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Are we still going ahead with the transformer group buy?
See post #337:
There will be no toroid group buy and any form of kits done by me aren't likely to happen. -
You might be able to bend the 2SK pins to fit but the LSK389 is reasonably easy to find.
Yes you can, I've done it. Very difficult to do, I dont recommend it.
(mouse-over or click pic to enlarge)
Get the LSK389 with a top hat heatsink. Much more purdy![ATTACH=CONFIG]4002[/ATTACH]
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Heh,
I was perusing the BOM (but not with my fine tooth comb)
and found a couple of things that could stand to be corrected.
Line items 30 and 31 should have the comment "either this or this".
Line item 33, LED's, quantity should be 8 each.
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That's why I bought the K702. When my kids use them and step on the cable thus destroying it,
I just jump on ebay and buy another plug & play stocker for $18 and am good to go again.
Not trying to rub salt in your wounds, but if you do consider buying another, get the K702.
For this very reason, I wont let the kiddies near my Staxen.
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I would think he is using a switched jack.
Something like this:
CLIFF ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS|S2BBB|SOCKET, 1/4" JACK, SWITCHED, 3POLE | element14 Australia
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Thanksgiving is over, but it's time for this turkey to start the stuffing.
And many thanks to Doctor Gilmore for making it possible!
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Look what the mailman dropped off today....
(click to enlarge)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3987[/ATTACH]
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140 on my 2001 Yammy FZ1 1000.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3969[/ATTACH]
Too chicken to push it further. Hell, I get tunnel vision at 125.
I'm taking a hiatus from riding until my youngest graduates HS in a few years.
Then it's cross-country baby![ATTACH=CONFIG]3968[/ATTACH]
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Standard power supply caps are 50mm... So if you pick the ones in stock now that are 63mm
then it isn't going to fit into a 3 inch high case. (vertically)
I picked up the 2" high psu caps a while back.
63mm = 2.48", so it is possible in a three inch tall enclosure, depending on inside height.
Instead of stand-offs under the pcb, a thin (~.062") insulating sheet
of high dielectric plastic could be used.
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@digger945,
Yeah, I saw the "create a size" thing.
I surmise by doing that, it will almost double the cost of the case.
I'm trying to do this build on a shoestring budget,
the 16 X 16 X 4 case that i'm looking at, costs $57 + s&h, unfinished.
I will call Par-Metal tomorrow to find out what a custom 16 X 17 X 3 case will cost.
I do prefer a lower height, but not if I have to pay through the nose for it.
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Thanks for the replys guys.
So, it's like on the beach......all doped up.
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I dont have any boards in hand, but resizing the overlay jpegs using a heatsink
as a size reference, I get approx 9" X 7.5" for the psu board,
and 8.25" X 6.25" for each of the two amp boards.
Theoretically, I get this as a rough mock-up:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3955[/ATTACH]
It's going to be a fairly tight fit.
Also due to the 4" height of the enclosure, I could slightly overlap boards if need be.
FWIW, the wood side panels will be slotted in the middle to help with ventilation.
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Didnt mean to kill the thread....
I'm thinking about going with a single box on this build.
Black with custom cocobolo side panels. (ala Hammond)
Kind of big though, I think it will all fit inside.
Par Metal #20-16164B.
Thoughts?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3953[/ATTACH]
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Hi, n00b here.
Please dont get out your shovels or hammers, i'm just asking a honest question.
I've noticed that the term "sand" has been used a lot in the DIY Forum
when referring to semiconductors. Does this mean something along the lines
that transistors and diodes are made out of silicon, basically quartz "sand"?
Therefore: sand = semiconductor?
Since semiconductors are generally not considered "passive" devices,
maybe it could be a fancy acronym for Silicon Active Node Device?
I've searched high and low and could only find this totally geeked-out reference:
Self-Assembled Nanodielectric. Could this explain "sand"?
Or is it something else?
TIA, livewire
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14.4 KV? I just wear one of these and I laugh in the face of the plasma arc fireball that envelopes me.
Maybe include it on the KGSSHV BOM? (for us n00bs)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3927[/ATTACH]
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The warnings about high voltage with significant amounts of energy storage are very real.
This power supply has more storage at more voltage than a heart defibrillator.
The story on the guy with the voltmeter is complete and utter bullshit. For one thing
the simpson 260, of which i have 2 brand new in the box uses a total of 1 x 1.5 volt D cell.
The older ones have 2 x 1.5 volt D cells. The maximum amount of current this meter can deliver
on the low ohms range is about 1 ma. This is not enough to kill no matter how hard
you try. On many of the DVM's however, there is a 9 volt battery, but once again these
work on a current source principle, and even on the low ohms range the maximum
current is 1 ma with a 1 volt maximum. 5 volt maximum on the diodes range.
The best rule on this is insulated shoes, and one hand behind your back at all times.
Safety glasses also a real good idea.
Do foam rubber flip-flops count as "insulated"? (j/k)
Seriously, I use a non-conductive floor mat at my workbench when dealing with the HV stuff.
The same kind that I use at work when tearing open 480vac electrical panels.
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Yes you can, but you aint gonna win!
Could one you youngsters tell me what it is wink posted and what it says?
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Dang that's a nice piece of iron! (or should I say aluminum?)
Seeing it makes me wanna run out and get one.
It would look great perched on top of my vintage SX-1010 monster receiver.
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Hi all, n00b here.
I really want to build this amp.
Please include me in a future board set / toroid purchase.
Thank you!
i'm on a roll... the kgsshv
in Do It Yourself
Posted
Yes it is, but it should work out just fine.
When I ordered the enclosure (and didnt have the boards yet)
I thought that I might have to overlap the boards a little bit, using different height standoffs.
Turns out that wont be necessary.
I really like the placement of the vent slots, right above and below and to the sides of the major heatsinks.
Should aid in helping the "chimney effect" venting.