Lil Knight
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Posts posted by Lil Knight
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I am using the quad TKD pot. Wondering which pot you are having problem with?
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I am still tweaking it a bit. Wanted to add a motorized potentiometer with remote control so I had to revise lots of things.
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Need to spend more time working on the surface finish but I am quite happy with these raw panels. I opted for T6063 aluminum for a better finish.
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Started working on the front panels for my second T2. Lots of fun ahead.
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Those switches from frozencpu are pretty low quality, they will wear out after a short while.
Mouser does stock some high current rating latching switch but they are all silver and quite expensive (>$40/ea).
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Look for some Wima MKS2 63v. Tolerance 5-10% is fine.
When you click on Show similar, Mouser will show you parts that are closely matched the obsolete one. Just start from there.
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You got a part number for that blue-ish film cap in the PSU, Birgir?
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Happy Birthday!
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What I don't like of amb's Delta1 are its rather large size and having to stick with the ugly LCD screen...
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Hmm, you don't have to populate the 3.3v 5v 12v section of the Dynahi PSU if you are using that Alpha pot... That section is left for one who wants to use KG's digital attenuator.
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Sounds good. I'm in for at least 100pcs at that price.
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50C doesn't seem to be too hot. Did you ever measure the temp on the brackets?
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I am 90% done in sourcing parts for the second T2, even though my first one is far from finished.
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Very nice revision of the boards. Being able to source all the parts from a single vendor is a big plus.
I've just done with huge schoolwork and will be pretty relaxed for a couple of months to do another run of group buy, if that really happens. Been planning for ordering a huge stock to keep the price as low as possible but haven't got chances yet.
I also found a local source for custom made EI-core or toroidal transformers. They are very well-made and all built by hands, not machine, so utmost care is guaranteed. I would just bring the psu board and try with every single transformer to make sure it works perfectly. A group buy for transformers+boards and ship in a single package would save a lot of time and cost.
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Ok, I'll bite, Tho i'ma not building a dynahi.
What is with the superimposed LT1021 and the LM4040 ? One on each side of the pcb?
Also the "blacked-out" psu 'lytics.
Are they placed on opposite sides of the pcb, or just use extra insulation over the solder-resist, or
?Please excuse the seriously stupid questions, just curious...
1. Use either of them.
2. Take a look at the revised KGSSHV psu.
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Yup, I used them on most of my amps. Tracked down the data sheet at some point and they are rated at 500V.
Good to hear that. I did see the 500v rating but not totally sure if it's trustworthy enough...
The JAE looks great for the money. For the T2 or KGSSHV level, best ones you can score is the ITT Cannon, even more bulky and heavy duty than the Amphenol.
I am using some Japanese made connectors for the T2. They are just as good as the Amphenol but a bit cheaper. Adding a nice mil spec sleeve will make some bad-ass umbilical cables.
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Something like this? I use these and they are ok in terms of build quality.
Did you try them for HV stuff? I bought some of them way in the past but never tried to see how they work with HV.
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Yes, need more zeros there, makes me curious which ladder DAC that is available and feasible for DIY.
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I'd use this one LT1021BCN8-10#PBF-ND
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You must have looked at something different.. I don't think the Amphenol plugs for my T2 umbilical cables was anywhere near $100/ea, more like $30/ea...
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What's your option(s) for a DIY ladder DAC other than the 1704 these days?
If it is anything like the TotalDAC then that would be a great Mafia DAC.
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A one off dac would also make it much harder to dismiss the source as something it isn't. We might do a Mafia dac one of these days as we have a very good I/V stage for it...
Exactly what I have been hoping for.
With the advent of more and more excellent ES9018 DAC modules, all I actually need is a top of the line, cost no matter IV stage, along with a KG-trademark PSU. -
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Would anything like the lme49710 or opa827 works here, instead of the op27?
Same question with the op27 in the T2 psu.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
in Do It Yourself
Posted · Edited by Lil Knight
Fooling around with these for a while, I think I will settle on this