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Milosz

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Posts posted by Milosz

  1. How many DIY T2's have been built / are up and running? 8? 12? More?

    There's a second wave being built now, about 15~18 units....

    My PCB's just arrived. This amp board is large, for sure. You get an idea of the scale in this photo. I love it.

    t2pcb.jpg

    PS- that's the regulation "small part/small fastener" -pattern industrial carpet on the floor of my workshop that you see there. I've spent may lovely hours sharpening my cursing skills whilst kneeling on that floor looking for an SMD diode or a #2 washer.

  2. These arrived from RichTech and look to be genuine- the logo looks like the Hitachi logo I've seen on other parts, and the date code looks sensible. Have to wait until my transistor characteristic checker arrives from China to see for sure if these are the real deal.

    rich-k216.jpg

    My transistor checker arrived. Measured the 2SK216's from RichTech and they have a breakdown voltage of 229 volts +/- 1 volt. So they SEEM OK.

  3. Their ham gear was OK.

    For people used to HP, Beckman and Tektronix, the Heath test gear wasn't very impressive. For those whose choice was either Heath, Eico, Knight or nothing at all, it was better than nothing.

    Some of their old tube amps were OK. As in, they worked and were better than Cal-Rad, etc.

  4. See Kevin's post here

    I think he sent out at least 15 this way and I never heard of any cracked boards in the original T2 thread. I don't have any boxes long enough to fit the T2 boards. If you want yours packed by the UPS store it's not a problem, pm me if this is the case (it will be about $40 or more). Otherwise I'm using the McMaster Carr envelopes.

    I am always leery of shippers. The McMaster padded envelope will do, I can't see paying $40 for a box from UPS. I know they charge a ton to pack stuff.

  5. Kevin Gilmore wrote:

    Get yourself one of these

    and test all the high voltage transistors before you put them in.

    Great suggestion! I didn't know you could get something to characterize transistors for so little money. Ordered one! I had not come across this on eBay in my perusal... thanks for to the OP and to the secondary poster for pointing it out.

    Before I actually start this T2 build I've got to finish reading the whole DIY T2 thread- so many things making demands on my time...

  6. Not sure what the tracking number for my boards reveals - CP86 0093 942V N - USPS says "Notice Left" in Bow, New Hampshire. I live in Chicago ..... I guess this tracking is for a shipment of many board to Bow, New Hampshire where someone will split them up and ship them individually?

    I see on the spreadsheet that quite a few buyers have Tracking # CP86 0093 942V N, so it must be a mass shipment to be divided up and re-shipped....?

  7. I'm not sure if the 2sk216 that I bought off Ebay are real. What do you think? Is there any simple way to test to see if they are real or fake?

    DSC_2018.jpg

    The logo looks fake to me. Real Hitachi logos don't look like that. That looks laser-etched, and they didn't get the logo right. Google image search "hitachi transistor" and compare, I don't see any logos that look like that one.

    I wonder if there is a way to contact Hitachi, you'd think they'd be interested in fighting counterfeits- although maybe at this low level it might be below their radar.

  8. I have a pair of ESP-950s, bought them off Audiogon, the previous owner had put a Stax cable on them. He did a really nice job, it looks totally factory. There is some advantage to be gained from using the ESP-950's on the SRM-1/MK2 vs. the stock Koss amp. Bass is more solid and highs more refined. However, I find the overall sound less coherent than Stax- more colored, not as neutral. In some ways (bass impact, texture) I like the ESP-950 better than Lambda's I've got, but the Koss sound... well, just a little less neutral and not as coherent in the mids and highs. They are a good 'phone, don't get me wrong, and for $500~$600 worth the money.

    Mine don't squeal.

    I really wonder if drilling holes or adding / removing damping is going to make them sound better.

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