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Everything posted by Milosz

  1. Have a buyer. Thanks everyone for your interest and consideration.
  2. In 2011 I bought everything needed for a D.I.Y. T2 ( except the chassis and the 4-gang attenuator or pot for level control) and had every intention of building the thing... but then I became disabled and unable to build it.... though I still fantasized that I would build it- somehow. Well, that clearly is never going to happen, and due to the situation I find myself in, I need to get the money back that I spent on these parts. I offered them to Birgir (Spritzer) but he doesn't need them; he suggested I offer them here. I have attached my T2 Bill of Materials with part numbers, prices and etc. Have a look and if you are interested, make an offer. FYI I will only sell this as a lot. All transistors obtained from sources other than Mouser/Digikey/Allied have been characterised ( breakdown voltage and curves measured ) to make sure there are no fakes. t2parts-milosz.xls
  3. --NEVER MIND (but thanks if you intended to post!) I FOUND THE SCHEMATICS.- Sorry for being lazy.... can someone please post a link to the DIY T2 schematic (amp & power supply) I had them but lost them due to a bonehead / senile dementia disk mirroring error, and my searches for them have only yielded links to dead locations at Northwestern Univ. I suppose I could spend the time and read through every post in this topic, I'm sure they are here, but as I am old I fear I may expire before getting through all 185 pages of posts... t2schem-b.pdf t2schempower.pdf
  4. Thanks for the info. I had seen the Chinese PCB's and the Chinese pre-built boards on eBay. I am leery of going that route, not because I worry about quality but because there's something that seems - well, at the very least impolite- about someone selling Dr. Gilmore's designs commercially or even semi-commercially, without his permission and likely not compensating him in any way. Bad karma, probably. If I accumulate any more bad karma, it's likely that the rest of my hair will fall out or something even worse will fall off.... IN ANY EVENT, I found someone on Head-Fi who had acquired a complete set of parts for a balanced Dynahi a few years back, and he was offering to sell them at his cost. He never got around to building the amp, and just wanted his expenditure back. So I just now bought that. It includes all the matched transistors and etc. That's really great because hunting down parts is not my favorite part of building stuff, my favorite part is the craft aspect of assembly, and especially designing and crafting good looking casework. But like I said, thanks for the reply.
  5. In the last 20 minutes I got the bug to build a Dynahi.... I admit I am confused about various versions / names of versions - some versions balanced , some symmetry-balanced, some using THAT340, older ones not, some with currently-available parts, original board based on old parts, etc..... First off: Did you end up with any extra dynahi boards of any description? Seems unlikely.... but I thought I'd ask Second: Failing that you have any boards- does anyone have any idea where I could get a dynahi board? I guess I am most interested in building an unbalanced version, similar to the original dynahi... I've looked around and since the dynahi was an older project, boards seem pretty thin on the ground these days.
  6. Here are several new knobs that were recently made for my stock, for use in various projects. Material: blue tiger-eye, labradorite, aventurine, agate. The aventurine one will be softly backlit as a pilot lamp. Opalized petrified wood knob under fabrication now....
  7. I'll post the blue tigers eye knobs once they're done. The process takes about 2 months....
  8. Red tiger eye knob (FYI not for T2) ...and a chunk of some nice blue tigers eye stone I just got, for to make more knobs....
  9. I bought a board set from jdineshk ; the power supply board is labeled version 1.1, and the amp board is labeled version .21 Is there a BOM that I can use with these? A schematic that matched would be good, too..... I've looked through this thread (albeit not exhaustively) and can't find anything I'm confident is a match. Thanks.
  10. I see so when Kevin mentioned "next board run" it was HIS board run- not a general run of boards that was being organized by someone.
  11. ...is there going to be a run of PCB's for Megatron?
  12. I haven't been following this thread but recently became interested....And now I have tried to read through the whole thread diligently.... I may have missed it, but is there going to be a group buy of amp and power supply PC boards for the Megatron? Again, excuse me if missed that but I just haven't seen any mention, except I read that Birgir has had a board (or boards?) made....
  13. Hey nattonrice, thanks for the COMPENDIUM OF BUILDERS' TIPS.... I am still mired down in other projects but when I finish building my T2 these will come in SUPER handy!!!!! OH, and congratulations to GeorgeP on completing his DIY T2
  14. I think sanding will produce more of a "brushed" final look. Reading more about aluminum surface finishes for architectural uses ( http://gjames.com/aluminium/surface-finishing ) I think what I want is a media blast followed by clear anodizing. Now I've got to find a place in the Chicago area that will do media blasting on one-off small jobs and then find a place to do the anodizing. That lower area- which actually stands out 1/8" from the rest of the panel- I am going to mirror polish that.
  15. Question about aluminum surface finishing I've had this front panel CNC milled, it's for a Beta 22 amp that I'm building. I'd like to give it a "frosted" type finish, like I've seen on various pieces of gear. I've done some reading and after I clean up the milling marks with sandpaper of increasingly finer grades, there are two ways I can go (well, two and a half really...) 1. Chemical etch using sodium hydroxide. 2. Media blasting. (Bead blasting or some other media) and the 0.5 is - I will likely have a clear anodize finish done after the surface is appropriately "matte / frosted" But maybe I don't even NEED the bead blasting or chemical etch - one of the steps in anodizing is a light etch. So I dunno, what's the best way to proceed?
  16. Thanks. Maybe I'll pass on the KGSSHV then. ===================================== What are these "clones" that you mention? DIY?
  17. Hey I'm kind of late to this party, and I'm in the middle of a DIY-T2 build, but when that's finished I'll need something else to do.....maybe a KGSSHV, sure why not, I've got a spare tiger's-eye knob I need to find a home for... 2 questions: How does the sound of the KGSSHV sound in comparison to the DIY T-2 (SR-007 MK 1's) I see Spritzer seems to be working on board creation, will there be an opportunity to get in on a group buy at some point? (sorry if this was covered in a earlier post, I just this minute got the bug for a KGSSHV and don't want to risk missing the opportunity to get in on a set of boards by spending 2 days slogging through all the posts.)
  18. I don't like the sound of this. Is this a design this is prone to blowing up with no provocation or are these problems due to assembly issues? "started after one of the K216's in the front end CCS had shorted through the insulation and a 3675 in the main CCS had also shorted." What insulation did it short through- the heatsink insulation pad? An insulating washer on the mounting screw? What kind did you use?
  19. I have SumR also, probably the most common I guess. I will check the lead labeling now, for sure. Good to know! Question: do the heatsinks on the Gilmore-cased versions get warm, hot, real hot or too hot to touch? I'm trying to ball-park the amount of heat produced. I have some heatsinks from Par-Metal which probably have twice the surface area of the Gilmore ones, I'm sure they will be fine; but I have a different idea for fabricating some special heat sinks instead, much prettier than these normal black-anodized Par-Metal ones, I think the heat sinks I have in mind would have about the same cooling ability as the Gilmore ones, but might be a little less (or a little more...)
  20. Oh? What kind of transformer problems? Where did you get them from? Anything builders can do to check their transformers to avoid the issue?
  21. How many DIY T2's are in operation now? Has anyone sold theirs, I wonder...? Or maybe the estate sold it after the builder stuck his hand inside while the HV was live.....* I am still, slowly, building up my chassis, that's the most complex part for me because I am hoping to make it something special, not a utility box type thing.... not having been part of the original DIY T2 case group buy, I don't have access to one of Kevin's meticulously CNC'd chassis, so I have to build up something on my own. I find that I get the best results when I'm in no hurry to finish. Going on two years now for this build.... *I got "bit" recently by my H-K Citation II, I was tracking down a solder joint that had become intermittent, and I learned that the B+ doesn't really bleed down all that fast after the AC is disconnected.... and that the rubber covering on the handles of my needlenose pliers has a hole in it.... things like this DO happen. Ah, well, they say that electroshock is an effective treatment for depression, so maybe some benefit came of it.
  22. Wow, a pretty bad fire! I've liked using par-metal enclosures, decent stuff, decent price. Hope they can recover, that was a heck of a fire.
  23. The old B&K 501A only goes up to 100v on the collector / drain so not of use in sorting these out. The little DY294 tester goes up to 1500v for it's breakdown test, so with that unit you can see if the breakdown voltage is where it should be; this is at least a good start for the DIY user, but for someone like Justin, or Kevin, it doesn't go far enough. DY294
  24. I recently bought a B&K 501A curve tracer, was incredibly cheap on eBay. Seems to work fine. Anybody have any experience with these? I've also got one of those little Chinese transistor tester gizmos too, that gives you breakdown voltage and a few other parameters. That seems sufficient to screen out fakes, but now with a curve tracer I should be able to match devices decently when that's needed. Still haven't freed up enough workshop space to build my T2. I might be deaf by the time I finally get around to it...... Also got one of those Tektronix differential HV probe gizmos, too. Girding up.....
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