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  1. 1000%. I have seen people do this with unfortunate results. Even what some consider to be drop in replacements for the el34, like kt77, should not be used.
  2. It’s even easier for the ones not mounted on the heatsink. 😉
  3. The 2sa1486 from little diode are 100% fake. They are pretty scummy.
  4. Where did you buy them? Most 2sa1486 being sold at the moment are fakes.
  5. If the 2sc3381 and 2sk246 are the ones you got from me, then they are real. That said, I have seen fake 2sc3381.
  6. use 1156 on the heatsinks, 1486 (if you have them) everywhere else.
  7. Oof! So something has also gone in the psu *and* some resistors in the amp sparked (to ground or just blew?)? Sounds like you have a bit of work to do, obviously fix the psu first.
  8. Ooof - then it sounds like you have some work ahead of you...
  9. So you only have one properly working side then?
  10. Sounds like current limiting in the power supply if only one side is powered up at a time and it powers up normally - 30r resistor to 25r or 20r will fix that. What happened though to cause you to start replacing parts in the amp section first - there may be something else afoot?
  11. I don't think so. He actually has a picture of a train and a picture of a bicycle side-by-side, and then goes on to state that they are not the same thing. I found that illustration particularly compelling. Though I think he might have had the arrows from the amplifiers pointing the wrong way...
  12. Only thing I learned from Fang's latest post is that a bicycle is not a train...
  13. Russian Mullards? Maybe you messed up the balance/offset process.
  14. Sounds like your tubes are the issue. If your tubes are within spec, you probably shouldn't have had to rebias at all. What were they measuring at before you rebiased?
  15. Well one thing in the earshock guy's favour is that Hifiman wasn't able to get him to be one of their shills - that's got to be worth something.
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