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GeorgeP

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About GeorgeP

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  1. The Headcase Stax thread

    If you are looking to spend in the neighborhood of $5k, then go BHSE (which is about $6k or thereabouts, all in). If you want to spend less than $4k then look to the myriad of KGSSHV carbon builders out there, or pick up a used one for even more savings. But none of the above answers are wrong (except maybe getting the T8000).
  2. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    I suppose there are two possibilities - 1) your JJ tubes are out of wack and you set the batteries taking into account their faults (and the sylvanias are fine), or 2) you need to look for a new tube reseller because this one is no good. I find a lot of resellers only test one side of the dual-triode, and I have seen some dual triodes measure new on one side and poor on the other side - this would cause problems in the t2. Not saying that is what happened here, but what you described shouldn't happen if the tubes are good. If your tubes are good, you should be able to switch them without having to make any adjustments to the batteries. The only time I have had an issue was when the two halves of the dual triode were not reasonably close. And in answer to your email, I have had bad tubes in my t2, but nothing where the bad tube took out any transistors.
  3. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    Fair enough. By "they", I meant stax, but just wasn't sure about the 6922. They certainly used 6dj8 tubes, as did a number of folks here if one were to search through this thread. Maybe the 6dj8s will expire sooner than 6922, but I have had no issues with NOS Matsushita 6dj8 and 7dj8 for at least 4 years (I also used 1980 JAN Philips 6922, but found the amp to not be as quiet as with some other tubes).
  4. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    Weren't they using both 6922 and 6dj8 at the same time?
  5. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    I always get confused by this whole some 6ca7 tubes are pentodes (relabelled EL34) and some (the fat bottle Sylvania/GE) are beam tetrodes. Not sure which was the intended one for theT2. But if there is cheap current production source of tubes that sounds better than all the new production "el34" tubes, and doesn't blow up the t2, then colour me interested.
  6. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    Use 10k pot to adjust to 6.55v across the 22k, then use the 2k to adjust the rest of the way - do this for the ones you already set as well.
  7. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    Sent you an email on this a couple weeks ago - you don't use the 10k to get to around 740, you use it to adjust the voltage across the 22k resistor. Otherwise you are basically doing it with your eyes closed.
  8. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    slow and steady wins the race...
  9. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    Do you mean the LEDs on the amp board? In any case that should not be happening. Only the filaments should be on (constantly), and not flashing.
  10. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    You don't need any shielding. I have made umbilicals with and without, including bundling the heaters separately and could detect no difference.
  11. Repairs

    If I were you I would send my Omega to this outfit. I have never heard anything negative about them. That, and maybe read your welcome pm.
  12. Power switch recommendation

    It is 12v, and what is the 500v for?
  13. The Headcase Stax thread

    Am surprised he actually posted these pictures instead of falling into a deep depression after realizing he paid thousands for it...
  14. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    The original was made by Hitachi. Renesas is the good. Not sure of any differences, but I suspect if you are seeing this "readily available" its because fakes are readily available.
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