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spritzer last won the day on May 31

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About spritzer

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    Reykjavik, Iceland
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    Reykjavik, Iceland

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  1. No, none of the amps are left here but it is a very noisy thing. Plenty of high frequency noise in that thing.
  2. The bias in the E90 is run off the HV+ line so 600V. That is fine for Stax but the issue is that the ballast resistor is not the right value and there is a cap after it. Now you could just place a 4M7 resistor on the adapter but I prefer to go into the amp and modify it with a voltage divider and moving the cap. The issue there is opening up the damn thing...
  3. Those parts from Nikko were probably here as I returned them a decade ago as fakes. They did find real ones to replace them back then but yeah... took back the fake ones and are probably selling those.
  4. Also cheaper not to buy the fuse insert. Clearly saving the big bucks here...
  5. ...wait, there is more!! I woke up early so what better than strip this shit down. First off was to remove the transformer and I found this: Notice the wire coming off the IEC and into the end of the fuse holder...and another wire connected to that pad? Yeah... I don't see any evidence that there had ever been any solder on that end of the fuse holder and the insert which holds the fuse is indeed missing. That would explain why, when the PSU blew it left this mark on the chassis At least the IEC input is nice... Gotta have that gold plating. I also don't understand how anybody could put "copyright" on this PCB with a straight face: It's two traces between two terminal blocks... ok. Now the real price, lifting the amplifier boards: Notice the nice line of standoffs...yeah not connected to anything: The heatsinks just sat on them, not connected in any way. So this thing has been shipped and the only thing securing the sinks are the transistor legs!! Spoiler alert but what could possibly happen... So 3 screws hold the amplifier boards to the chassis but no lock washers anywhere and everything was loose. What a great way to support some of the heaviest objects in the amp.
  6. As many of you know, I for one have stopped releasing all new designs for a few years now after I got fed up with people building crap and claiming it was somehow connected to Kevin or I. Now this also means I don't release the PCB's for many of the older projects as I want to change something and often... make them smaller. So this hasn't stopped people selling crap with our circuits but at least they don't get any of the updates. Now here is an amp I saw come up for sale in Japan a while ago. The new owner contacted Kevin to try and trouble shoot it but yeah, we don't offer any real help with these things. Something about the PSU did peak my interest so when it popped up again for sale for not a whole lot of money, I snapped it up. So here it is: Standard KGSSHV here with some version of the offboard PCB's but the build... it is just so bad. All the wires are the same color which is just nuts. Also just cheap PVC China wire and I'll check if it is actually real copper in there. Here are some of my favorites: Support the sinks properly... that is for suckers. Also I don't know why the volume extender is wrapped in Kapton tape... The amp shipped like this, the sinks are just attached by the components. It takes no for to bend them like that. I think this is some form of the GRLV but shit is is cheaply made. Transformer wires thinner than 24AWG... yeah pure quality there. Terminal blocks clearly cost too much but stuff like this at +580V can arc over. Last but not least, no repairs are possible.... What I find truly fascinating about this thing is the PSU board as... well... they cloned my smaller KGSSHV design. That one was never released into the wild but I have posted plenty of high res pics of both sides and they seem to have made a new board from those. See this: Now all the written markings or most of them, look real. What is not real are all the part numbers as Rxx or Cxx is not a system we use. The packages are all also a bit wrong so the board is clearly a clone. I'll dig it out and post some pics next to the real thing. More coming as I strip it down.
  7. I do always remove the damping inside the earpads so that's well worth it. The older ESP950's (remember they have been in production for 30 years) also had damping on the back of the drivers which has to be removed.
  8. That really applies more to the older ESP950's as Koss have removed most of the damping by now.
  9. Why are you changing those caps? Any of the claims out there that this cap sound like this and this one is good for this spot... it is all bullshit. This is a niche circuit so special care has to be taken when picking caps for that.
  10. I agree, with the Massdrop Koss at 450$ it makes little sense.
  11. Stax have clearly been moving towards lessening the impact of the port for years now and they might just have plugged it. Still there is an opening on both sides which might need to be closed. Looks like I'll need to get a new set to test once all this pandemic stuff blows over.
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