holland

Should not be a problem when you soak the entire PCB in solvent. I use WD-40 to remove all sorts of glue-ish stuff, like stickers, residue, and decals. It makes very short work of that stuff. You can even use it to remove registration stickers on your license plate. Glue residue doesn't like oil. Here's a video I found on youtube just now. The acetone should work too.

I received the boards, thanks Tran! glue, I use WD-40 (or some other type of light oil). Glue comes right off of many surface types when oil is applied. Then clean off the oil with alcohol. I use denatured alcohol, though most people use "rubbing" alcohol.

On the contrary, I think she's loaded to the gills and swimming in gold and bathing in champagne. I need a sugar mama. DA9000 is pretty sweet. The Di2 electronics seem counter intuitive for what a bike means, at least to me. I use SRAM Force, but that DoubleTap stuff has caught me multiple times with mis-shifts, especially when I go to trim the front and end up dropping it down or shifting the rear and end in the same gear. I was thinking about Red, but the durability question kept coming up (and noise). Have fun on your vacation. I take it your bike is going with you on a long trek? BTW, are you thinking of getting a power meter? A few guys I know train with it. It's pretty cool to get real time and logged power data to correlate with HR and cadence, but expensive and seems to make it more work than play. I'm thinking about it, but I'm not sure it's "worth it" for me. Hah! I always forget about them, but then again I am more MTB oriented and Campy doesn't play there. I do hear that it is nice though. I don't know anyone with Campy equipment (for their road bikes). Lots of Shimano and a handful of SRAM. That's sweet. I ride a cross bike, so I have discs. I use mechanical, and am thinking of moving to hydraulics since they are now available. A steep 2K descent makes my hands tired.

That's a neat frame. It sounds like you've got a fairly expensive stable of bikes. Are you going to fit the new one with Dura-Ace or Red?

Wow, I've not heard that one before. Raid, and clean?

PEEK screws are useful to have around for general use. What sizes are you thinking of? Interested.

I'm probably not in the group you're targeting but I'll respond. I earth both. It's electrical safety protocol. Any exposed conductive parts (metal) should be earth'd so as to not electrocute anyone accidentally, in case of a fault. Fault current needs to go somewhere, and that place should be the safety ground. You also don't want the chassis to float to some other electrical potential and do weird things. HTH.

It's for riding on the nose of the saddle, for steep climbs, I think. Bike fitting, I'm not sure what to make of it. Things change as you ride more or less. People I know that fitted had to refit or just ignore it. Some people are not flexibile, and after riding for a year are able to bend more and feel more comfortable doing so. Their fit is lower in the drops and a longer reach stem. Go to a Specialized store. Butt fitting is free. They will measure it with what the workers call a "buttmeter." After that, it's all preference. Some stores allow you to try saddles out and ride around. If you don't like it, they can exchange and the prior cost carrying over. Do clarify with the store first. Some do not do this, but almost all realize that saddle fitment is a very personal thing. 4,000 good for you.

LOL, my wife just asked me something similar the other day about all the recent expenses.

Payment for extra shipping sent!

looks awesome. nail polish works on regular stuff. i don't know about high voltage though. how do you measure stat amps? i haven't built one yet, and don't have stats...though i do have pcbs coming. i'll buy the stats after i build an amp.

Nope, but I do hear Queen's Bicycle Race. Cyclocross bikes are the win for this. I do have an old 1990 Rockhopper that I have set up for long mountain and road rides. My CX bike is not quite set up for CX yet (need wheels and different gearing).

That's jamming a ton of stuff into there. I would be concerned about noise, although I have to say that I am doing something similar for a Dynahi (original boards). Are 2 box solutions out of the picture? I would pull the trafos out, and the regulator for the attenuator (noise doesn't matter much here, I think). That should free up lots of room. I'm guessing that's not the goal. Can you tap the AC for the 15V PSU and run it to a different 12V regulator?

Please post or PM if you need more $$$ to cover shipping.

awesome!