kevin gilmore

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kevin gilmore last won the day on April 26

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About kevin gilmore

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    Staximus Maximus, Stax Mafia's Chief Cook and Bottle Washer

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  1. a bit more current to bring the plate voltage down a bit
  2. noise level due to input tubes?
  3. That resistor was for lowering the gain when using the original opamp and a pair of diodes. will add a jumper once the board is verified
  4. happy it works. now for a version with tubes as the constant current sources And a cherub has just informed me a t8000 is headed my way I like retirement. going to a hamfest tomorrow to see what I can find to update some of my very antique test gear
  5. Short in the transformer to ground, seen it before
  6. amp schematic uberamp2.pdf
  7. looks fine to me, the oven door is no more than 2 inches in front of the cabinet faces. The previous oven which was a built in was probably 1 inch in front of the cabinet face all the heat goes up the back splash and under the feet of the oven out the front. favorite place of the dogs when the oven is on.
  8. yep, and requires 60 amp circuit 220v
  9. Before I got the Wolf oven/cooktop, I used a single burner cheap thing. Worked great. make sure you try a magnet on the pans you plan on using, some kinds of stainless pans are non magnetic and will not work. also they use 80% of the power of a typical kitchen circuit, so you can't use most other things at the same time
  10. sounds like a shorted zener also easy to fix
  11. pretty sure i found the right source file, will have to look later i got to get this crap under control somehow edit: fixed board layout for future use if any kgsshvpssicfetsingle2newstretch2 - CADCAM.ZIP
  12. edit: found the output file, but no source file. (or I named it something stupid) but from the dates, no matching source file
  13. biggest problem with this is that it can't handle anything like 1kv with the parts shown you can replace the lnd150 with a 10m90s or ixta01n100d cascode, then also use a ixta01n100d as the current source device. will test later
  14. if you are going thru all that effort (and its a good idea) might as well add some hall effect devices on the power rails to monitor the bias current. something I did in the uberamp quite a while ago and that made the bias super stable, set it to what you want and it works. then if you want to get super silly, add dynamic bias
  15. Bought the lg 65 oled, will be here next week