meeskees
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Posts posted by meeskees
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That would be interesting. I have compared GE and RCA ones. It wasn't easy because it takes quite some time to change the tubes and set the offset and balance again. I thought the RCA's were the better ones, but I am not really sure about that.Good luck!
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My mistake, I didn't see it listed when I tried to filter all stax products
It is the Korean version.You have to look at the self price quote. Look also at the kakaku site for prices.
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Not a Mk3.0?
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We've spotted a unit in Europe having a SZ3 serial number but for the purchase date and its sound, it's quite sure that it's a mk2.
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That makes it very tricky to order a SR-007.
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That's interesting, but how do we know what the latest version is?
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On the site of Innerfidelity I came across this information of the SR-007. If this information is correct than it means Spritzer has a "Mk2.5".
SR-007 Mk1 early version - different driver frame plus some minor material changes, older style carbon fiber box.
SR-007 Mk1 late version - the version tested here and the most common of the Mk1's, S/N either 7xxxx or SZ1-xxxx
SR-007A/SR-007Mk2 - S/N SZ2-xxxx, Stax change the earpads, how they sit and introduce a port to the earcups. Sound is a mixed bag depending on fit but can be fixed to sound pretty much like the Mk1.
SR-007A/SR-007Mk2 - S/N SZ3-xxxx, often called the Mk2.5, Stax supposedly change the diaphragm which results in a much more forward sound signature.
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The drawing is from DIY. There was a discussion which circuit is better.(B they say).I used the online calculator in the link.
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After work I have done some soldering. This site gives lot of information http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-voltagedivider.htm. I made an attenuator with resistors I had by hand.I used circuit B .With two 10k seriesrisistors and 5.6 parallel. The attenuation should be 11.5dB. I think it can even a bit more. 12.00 o'clock is now OK with classical music, but much too loud with modern pop music.Older pop music is not so loud.
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Thanks Laowei,now I understand what Kevin meant with the Neutrik connector. The problem is I don't have enough space behind my amp.I already use angled connectors. Besides I think it is a bit overkill.I only need 6 resistors to attenuate the signal. I have done some new calculations: line input 10k, attenuation 10dB, R1 & R2 2700 ohms, R3 3300 ohms.
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Just use digital domain attenuation on the DAC.
Don't know how to do this with the Gungnir .
I am not sure about the calculations.
With the 10k series risistors I calculated for -10dB 9.25k for the parallel resistor. Are these a reasonable values?
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Thanks Laowei, I will give it a try, but first I have to study it.
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Sorry, I feel a bit stupid, but I don't know how to calculate. For the online calculators you need to know the output impedance.For a -10dB what value will suit?
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Thanks, but how can this be done with an XLR input?
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The DAC is a Schiit Gungnir.According the specs it is maximum output XLR 4.0V RMS
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The input of the kgst is very sensitive. I can only use 25% of the volumepot to get deafening sound. Is it possible to attenuate before the volumepot? The pot is a 10k alps (4 gang)
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I replaced the 1.5k resistor by an 1.1k one, so there is enough room for adjustments.
In the weekend I have time to walk through the process again and make notes.
It's really a great amp headphone combination. Much more detail compared to my Hifiman-400.
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I set the multimeter at the highest input (1000V) so there is little variation.
I just expected the servo immediately to respond.
This evening I had more time to listen. It still sounds great.
Perhaps I repeat the measurements and set the meter to a lower input, but first I want to enjoy more music.
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Without servo the amp had run for three hours. Then adjusted the pots to 0 V and inserted the opamps and closed the headers. When I turned the amp on again I measured in one channel 9 volts and in the other 6 Volts. After an hour I measured 0 Volts in the right channel and 1 V in the left. This is probably normal I guess?
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Okay,that's clear, but how long does it takes? In my case it took an hour before 0 volts were reached. Does this mean the servo isn't working correct?
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What does the servo do exactly? I can't see or hear any difference with or without servo. It still takes some time before the tubes balanced out.
kgst
in Do It Yourself
Posted
That's what I remember too,but I had the feeling the RCA's are more involving and the bass was a bit tighter.