meeskees

That's what I remember too,but I had the feeling the RCA's are more involving and the bass was a bit tighter.

That would be interesting. I have compared GE and RCA ones. It wasn't easy because it takes quite some time to change the tubes and set the offset and balance again. I thought the RCA's were the better ones, but I am not really sure about that.Good luck!

It is the Korean version.You have to look at the self price quote. Look also at the kakaku site for prices.

http://www.pricejapan.com/k_front/k_good_info.php?code=536&category=10

Not a Mk3.0?

That makes it very tricky to order a SR-007.

That's interesting, but how do we know what the latest version is?

On the site of Innerfidelity I came across this information of the SR-007. If this information is correct than it means Spritzer has a "Mk2.5". SR-007 Mk1 early version - different driver frame plus some minor material changes, older style carbon fiber box. SR-007 Mk1 late version - the version tested here and the most common of the Mk1's, S/N either 7xxxx or SZ1-xxxx SR-007A/SR-007Mk2 - S/N SZ2-xxxx, Stax change the earpads, how they sit and introduce a port to the earcups. Sound is a mixed bag depending on fit but can be fixed to sound pretty much like the Mk1. SR-007A/SR-007Mk2 - S/N SZ3-xxxx, often called the Mk2.5, Stax supposedly change the diaphragm which results in a much more forward sound signature.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/266052-passive-balanced-attenuator-between-pre-power.html

The drawing is from DIY. There was a discussion which circuit is better.(B they say).I used the online calculator in the link.

After work I have done some soldering. This site gives lot of information http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-voltagedivider.htm. I made an attenuator with resistors I had by hand.I used circuit B .With two 10k seriesrisistors and 5.6 parallel. The attenuation should be 11.5dB. I think it can even a bit more. 12.00 o'clock is now OK with classical music, but much too loud with modern pop music.Older pop music is not so loud.

Thanks Laowei,now I understand what Kevin meant with the Neutrik connector. The problem is I don't have enough space behind my amp.I already use angled connectors. Besides I think it is a bit overkill.I only need 6 resistors to attenuate the signal. I have done some new calculations: line input 10k, attenuation 10dB, R1 & R2 2700 ohms, R3 3300 ohms.

Don't know how to do this with the Gungnir . I am not sure about the calculations. With the 10k series risistors I calculated for -10dB 9.25k for the parallel resistor. Are these a reasonable values?

Thanks Laowei, I will give it a try, but first I have to study it.

Sorry, I feel a bit stupid, but I don't know how to calculate. For the online calculators you need to know the output impedance.For a -10dB what value will suit?

Thank you for the reply. I did not see how this adapter works.The DAC is fully balanced. Would it not be easier to solder some resistors at the input connector of the amp? The only problem is I am not sure about the values of these resistors.

Thanks, but how can this be done with an XLR input?

The DAC is a Schiit Gungnir.According the specs it is maximum output XLR 4.0V RMS

The input of the kgst is very sensitive. I can only use 25% of the volumepot to get deafening sound. Is it possible to attenuate before the volumepot? The pot is a 10k alps (4 gang)

I replaced the 1.5k resistor by an 1.1k one, so there is enough room for adjustments. In the weekend I have time to walk through the process again and make notes. It's really a great amp headphone combination. Much more detail compared to my Hifiman-400.

I set the multimeter at the highest input (1000V) so there is little variation. I just expected the servo immediately to respond. This evening I had more time to listen. It still sounds great. Perhaps I repeat the measurements and set the meter to a lower input, but first I want to enjoy more music.

Without servo the amp had run for three hours. Then adjusted the pots to 0 V and inserted the opamps and closed the headers. When I turned the amp on again I measured in one channel 9 volts and in the other 6 Volts. After an hour I measured 0 Volts in the right channel and 1 V in the left. This is probably normal I guess?

Okay,that's clear, but how long does it takes? In my case it took an hour before 0 volts were reached. Does this mean the servo isn't working correct?

What does the servo do exactly? I can't see or hear any difference with or without servo. It still takes some time before the tubes balanced out.