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  • Location
    Silicon Valley / Bay Area
  • Gender


  • Headphones
    SR-007mkii, SR-507, SR-Lambda Pro, SR-407
  • Headphone Amps
    KGSSHV Carbon, Blue Hawaii BJT, SRX-Plus, SRD-7 Pro
  • Sources
    Schiit Gungnir MultiBit, Gen5 USB, Balanced connections

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Blueman2's Achievements

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  1. I think so. However, I am not sure that the shunt PSU was ever finalized. I recommend going with one of the GRHV variants for the power supply. But the SRX itself remains a great, simple to build amp.
  2. Whaaat? Did you hack apart a TO-247 casing to put that SMD into it? Insane. 😄
  3. What is your setup for creating boards? Do you use a small CNC router?
  4. I have successfully used the ROHM version (3rd column in the list above) for over a year in the Carbon amp with no issues, but I think that part is also out of stock? Used the one if the first column (which has good availability now) in a GRHV with no issues, but not on a Carbon. But from the specs, it should work as well as the other two.
  5. I applaud this thread!!! On point 1 that James made, I am very guilty of helping cause this issue. I have mixed comments on the GRHV across threads for Blue Hawaii BJT, Carbon, and a few others as well. Just to make sure that it is almost impossible for anyone to learn from what I did. 😁 On point 2, I have tested 2 alternatives to the C2M1000170D, and both appear to work fine. One of them is pretty new and usually in stock: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=vHuUswq2%2Bsy%2BS7yfkaWaCA%3D%3D Item on left is the one that is in stock. Item to the right is the alternative that I successfully used as well, but often not in stock. Middle is the standard part which appears to be quite elusive.
  6. Yes, this baby will keep you warm in the winter. I ended up doing the same, starting with 17mA and then increasing to 20mA after it was running for a couple days. Not sure it really made much difference in either sound or heat production, but just wanted to push the envelope.
  7. @Pflugshaupt, thanks for sharing pics! Love the old school volume knob. And the woodwork looks wonderful. There is something different about your SR-007's. Is that a custom yolk?
  8. Doh, sorry Pars. I did not see the min order quantity. The only part that appears in stock at Mouser that might be compatible is https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=vHuUswq2%2Bsy%2BS7yfkaWaCA%3D%3D Item on left is the one that is in stock but has not been tested. Item to the right is the alternative that I successfully used. Middle is the standard part.
  9. Pars, there is a replacement/alternative for the C2M that I found and used successfully in my build. Let me find that part number. EDIT: Here is a link to my post: Here is the part: 755-SCT2H12NZGC11 Unfortunately, it also appears out of stock, but it is an alternative that worked for me in my Blue Hawaii and is still going strong, if you can find it elsewhere. EDIT2: I just checked my supply of parts and have none of the SiCs. Sorry. EDIT3: TTI appears to have some of the ones I used: https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-detail.html?partsNumber=SCT2H12NZGC11&mfgShortname=ROH&utm=ECIA
  10. @simmconn, First, that is a great looking build. Can you share pictures of the internals? Curious how you crammed all that into such a small space. As for the hum, a few thoughts: 1. You are using separate transformer windings for the 6SN7s and the 12AT7s, right? 2. Have you tried to elevate the filament heaters as described in the thread? That eliminated my hum Nice build!!!
  11. @hhobeika, great build! Very impressed with your details such as keeping the signal output wires parallel and flat just like in the headphone cable. I love those little details!
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