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Blueman2

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About Blueman2

  • Rank
    Limited Edition Bronze Participant

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  • Location
    Silicon Valley / Bay Area
  • Gender
    Male

Converted

  • Headphones
    SR-007mkii, SR-507, SR-Lambda Pro, SR-407
  • Headphone Amps
    KGSSHV Carbon, Blue Hawaii BJT, SRX-Plus, SRD-7 Pro
  • Sources
    Schiit Gungnir MultiBit, Gen5 USB, Balanced connections

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  1. Yes, this baby will keep you warm in the winter. I ended up doing the same, starting with 17mA and then increasing to 20mA after it was running for a couple days. Not sure it really made much difference in either sound or heat production, but just wanted to push the envelope.
  2. @Pflugshaupt, thanks for sharing pics! Love the old school volume knob. And the woodwork looks wonderful. There is something different about your SR-007's. Is that a custom yolk?
  3. Doh, sorry Pars. I did not see the min order quantity. The only part that appears in stock at Mouser that might be compatible is https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=vHuUswq2%2Bsy%2BS7yfkaWaCA%3D%3D Item on left is the one that is in stock but has not been tested. Item to the right is the alternative that I successfully used. Middle is the standard part.
  4. Pars, there is a replacement/alternative for the C2M that I found and used successfully in my build. Let me find that part number. EDIT: Here is a link to my post: Here is the part: 755-SCT2H12NZGC11 Unfortunately, it also appears out of stock, but it is an alternative that worked for me in my Blue Hawaii and is still going strong, if you can find it elsewhere. EDIT2: I just checked my supply of parts and have none of the SiCs. Sorry. EDIT3: TTI appears to have some of the ones I used: https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-detai
  5. @simmconn, First, that is a great looking build. Can you share pictures of the internals? Curious how you crammed all that into such a small space. As for the hum, a few thoughts: 1. You are using separate transformer windings for the 6SN7s and the 12AT7s, right? 2. Have you tried to elevate the filament heaters as described in the thread? That eliminated my hum Nice build!!!
  6. @hhobeika, great build! Very impressed with your details such as keeping the signal output wires parallel and flat just like in the headphone cable. I love those little details!
  7. Neat! When you say your bias is only able to reach 490, how are you measuring that? You cannot just measure with a normal DMM as it's own impedance will give a false low reading. And where did you get the board made? Looks quite nice.
  8. I did this build about a year ago. I have used Antec for all 4 of my builds so far and have been very happy with them. Antec is very conservative with their VA rating, so I would not worry so much about that. As for the voltage, I think they spec their voltage at 115, but not sure. It will say on their site for each transformer. You then have to look at your normal line voltage. For me, I typically am at 122 to 124 volts AC here in San Francisco area with PGE. So my 300V transformers typically give me 320VAC under load. But YMMV depending on local AC voltages.
  9. I had the same thoughts come up when I ordered mine. I ended up going with smaller (in voltage and in VA) simply because that is what would fit in my case. If space is not an issue, I think your choices are good.
  10. I will also put in a recommendation for Antec. Here is what I used for my Carbon: AN-0215 - 25VA 15V Transformer $11.00 USD AS-2T300 - 200VA 300V Transformer $38.50 USD
  11. @mwl168, I found exactly the same thing. Once I elevated the heaters, the hum was eliminated completely. 12AT7s are at 60V (voltage divider off B+ rail) , and 6SN7s are at -340V (tied directly to B- rail). In all, I did 4 things to make mine totally silent: Used voltage divider to elevation the filament voltages. +60V for 12AT7s and -315V (or in my case, I just tied it to B- so -340V) for the 6SN7s I switched to different set of tubes. The ones I started with just hummed. After switching, much less hum More careful grounding of components Finally, to get
  12. Nice!!! Did you mill the stops yourself or job that out to someone else?
  13. Nice! Congratulations!! I am loving the perspex case. Though for heat dissipation, making the sides of the case heat sinks and using perspex for top, bottom, front, and back would seem better. You must have a CNC to do all of those drill holes so perfectly?
  14. Sounds like a battle between the Mechanical Engineer and the Electrical Engineer inside of all of us.
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