mwl168

I think it’s a deleted scene from “Shining”.

I can confirm that the full-size SuSy Dynalo offset does drift even with servo engaged as Chris stated. My own observation: 1. The drift is mostly ambient temperature related. A cased amp drift less than a free-standing (aka air-chassis) amp does 2. The + out and - out drift the same amount so, while the offset relative to ground drifts, the voltage difference between + out and - out are fairly stable

Maybe he bought them on Amazon Prime Day.

I, too, have re-terminated my headphones with 4-pin XLR and built a 4-pin XLR to TRS adaptor cable. Additionally, I replace the female TRS socket with 4-pin XLR on single-ended amp when I can. To me, the primary benefit of a 4-pin XLR connector for single-ended amp is to avoid the brief shorting of output when plugging and unplugging headphones with TRS connectors.

Maybe that’s just the right-rear speaker of the surround-sound system.

My recommendation is to phase-in the changes. The safety resistors should be considered a must-do and replace all the capacitors as you have already did. I consider these 2 steps phase 1. I would then listen to the amp with the existing transistors for a while before moving to phase 2 - replacing transistors. I would take a few measurements of the working amp prior to changing the transistors and I may do it one channel at a time so you can reference between the two in case something does not work right. I would further break down transistors update into multiple sub-phases.

I think any good quality film capacitor, including the one in your link, should do fine.

Those 4.7uf are power supply bypass capacitors. The 4.7uf paralleled the 100uf electrolytic caps. I use some WIMA PP caps with appropriate voltage rating. And I used multiplayer ceramic caps for the .1uf.

Hi Chris: For my universal PSU (GRLV + GRHV), I use a Galaxy 3U chassis which comfortably accommodates the 680uf/550V capacitors. The chassis has no true finned heatsink, it has what the vendor calls the "quasi heatsink". I use this PSU to power my Carbon, Blue Hawaii, Grounded Grid and the CFA. I bolted the transistors of the GRHV to a L angle which is then bolted to the "quasi heatsink". Even powering the Blue Hawaii, which draws much more current than the Carbon does, the "quasi heatsink" only glows warm to the touch. I believe even if you just bolt the GRHV transistors to t

None of the attachment seems to be working for me. Do others experience the same issue?

Happy Birthday!

This is probably stating the obvious, I would also position the input connectors to the opposite side of where the mains AC connector is and route the input signal wires along the chassis wall, far away from the transformers.

Don’t forget Kevin’s electrostatic CFA amp.

Looks good to me counselor. No need to appear!

Photos, we need photos, lots of photos!