billqs

I'm sorry they won't work with you. That really blows! I hope you can get this resolved.

I'm in the US and I dealt with STAX directly in Japan. This was several years ago and at the time the US Stax Representative situation was a ridiculous mess, but they worked with me. I hope you can get the help you need! I dealt with a representative from Edifier. They charged $780 to replace both drivers. EDIT #2: It was a big deal that I couldn't locate the serial number and they almost didn't take it, but finally relented. I tracked the previous history of the 007s both the shop and original owner and neither had the information. EDIT #1: Here's the email names redacted: Hi Bill, Kindly note that STAX Japan has accepted your RMA order without SN provided. The estimated cost of the repair is USD780 including the cost of Sound Elements, Technical Charges, etc. Please note that this is an estimation only. The actual cost will be quoted after inspection. If you are fine with this estimation, please pay attention to the following for product sent to STAX Japan for repair: Customer can send faulty unit to STAX Japan at customer's cost. A fee of USD 65.- will be charged as inspection fee. If the customer DOES accept the repair cost quoted, the inspection fee of USD 65.- will be used to offset the repair costs. If the customer DOES NOT accept the repair cost and requests for the faulty unit to be returned, then the inspection fee of USD65.- will be charged by paypal to customer and the unit to customer's address via post will be arranged by Edifier. Any additional charges incurred for parts replacement and other requirements will be quoted after inspection for customers' acceptance. We look forward to hearing from you on the above. Thanks & best regards,

Don't know if this is helpful, but I had to replace the diaphragms in my old SR-007 and STAX did it for me. I don't have the invoice, but I was able to get it done by the company even though it was Looonngg out of warranty.

Since you're using a passive driver box, you can compensate for the volume mismatch if you have a balance function on your amp. What are you using to power the SRD 6/SB? I have one of those myself. I might pick up a set of the SR-5 Gold. They are quite gorgeous phones!

I've used both the kgss and kgsshv and as you said those give reference level responses. I didn't realize you got to demo this new 007 at home.

What were they running the 007's out of? Perhaps the difference might be down to the chain of hardware running it? Just a thought.

Well, if an electronic component is put together in a slapdash manner such that a cursory inspection reveals faults, what does that say about electronic issues that might pop up down the road that don't show up right away? Also, if a company/person doesn't show a lot of competence in building the amp correctly, how competent are they about how they install circuits? I'm glad it sounds good to you. I just hope it lasts.

I agree. I do think the Koss 95X/950 can sound good, especially if you liberate them from the pedestrian energizer they come with and use whichever better amp you use to play your STAX, but they aren't really similar to the 007.

@Katusha Did you read your welcome message? If not, I would strongly suggest finding it.

That's pretty identical to what I have.

"EDIT: If anyone is curious I can upload photos of the stair solder joint covering on the mk1 tomorrow." I'd love to see the solder joint pic. Someone had wanted more pics of the phones disassembled but it took 3 hours to get the &*^*% pads back on! (Just like Spritzer said in the blu tack mod thread, "patience of a saint." I went ahead and blu tacked the gaps in the piece so they are definitely sealed now. Also, the pad spring was 95mm so I stretched the ring out to 100mm before putting back together."

Sounds great if you could upload. I've been calling it an MKII because the headband said SR-007 MKII. But I've always thought it looked like an MK I. Stax replaced both drivers last year and never mentioned the different model incarnation. Should I expect they changed the drivers with MK II's as I don't know if they kept any stock of the old MK 1. Looks like they used the original cups if they match the original MK I design.

I had a channel imbalance repaired by Stax by replacing the drivers on my SR007 mk2 about a year ago. With the pandemic I finally have the time to do the blutack port mod. I’ve noticed the diaphragm enclosure looks different to the one on Spritzer’s guide on this site. There is a plastic piece that sits on top of where the cable hooks up to the drive assembly that appears to not leave room for a port. I took a before and after pic removing the plastic piece. is there a modified way to do the port mod since the white plastic piece meets the rest of the circular drive assembly?

Well, if you are using a transformer box of any shape then a lot depends on what amp you are using to run the transformer box. Unless it's a mighty good amp you already have to use with the transformer box, you'd likely do better getting a stat amp. Also, transformers are limited in that in transformer boxes they are often built for a low price point and so aren't the best transformers available for the job. If you have a great amp already and want to go with a transformer box, I would look at the boxes Spritzer has available at Mjolnir Audio. In addition to the amps, he has rebuilt several of the STAX transformer boxes with modern components and doesn't compromise on quality. There are other considerations, but there are other threads on here that answer the question you are asking. I'd suggest searching them out for more information.

I just got my 007's back from STAX where they replaced the drivers due to channel imbalance. That *should* give me the best shot at having the latest drivers. Since the bass port is more refined is it still advisable to do the port mod?