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Everything posted by Sisterray

  1. Much of the Stax gear sold on eBay comes from estate sales bought by people who don’t know what they have. I was lucky when I bought a 207 pair & a pair of Lowther drivers from an audiophile who resells what he finds at those sales. The prices were good & everything was as represented. The obvious difference was that he knew what he had & priced accordingly.
  2. Everyone has different sensitivities, and I don’t notice any of that, but that doesn’t diminish your preferences. We like what we like. What do you think of the build-quality & comfort?
  3. What do you guys specifically dislike so much about the 507s?
  4. What relevant specs distinguish the performance of the SR-507 from that of the SR-207? I recently acquired a 507 pair & did a comparison using the twin sockets on an SRM-1/MK2. The phrase that popped into mind after a few minutes of comparing the two was “dirty windshield”, the dirty windshield being the 207s. Of course, this was obvious when comparing the two. By itself, the 207s are outstanding when placed up against electrodynamics & wipe the floor with the latter. The 507s beat the other pair in clarity & bass definition. Voices are better defined & percussion is more detai
  5. It is, indeed, a matter of value. Then it comes down to whether an amp that is nearly 25 years old is worth updating. I am concerned about components failing that I am not qualified to troubleshoot & replace. Recapping & rebiasing are things I can do, but I think a new amp is in order. Thnaks for putting things into perspective.
  6. I’m in a quandary over the next amplifier step. My SRM-1/Mk2 is no younger than 24 years, because I believe production was ended in 1995. (It has two probias sockets, if that helps dating.) It hasn’t hasn’t been recapped & rebiased. I’m considering a 47-step Goldpoint for it & new RCA jackets. If I have the work done, it’ll be over $500. The SRM came out of a studio & cost around $450. It sounds great & has been very reliable for the six months I’ve had it. It drives SR-207 & SR-507 stats. The three options are: 1) Refurb the SRM-1/Mk2; 2) Buy a new SR
  7. How would the SRM-1/Mk2 likely compare to the Stax & Moljinir transformer boxes when driven by current Class D amps?
  8. Is there a problem with plugging stats into a live amp or unplugging from a live amp, as opposed to plugging into & unplugging from an unpowered amp? I have made those mistakes a couple of times.
  9. Is an acrylic omega-style stand for my Stax SR-207 earspeakers a no-no because of static buildup? I just bought it but haven’t received it yet. I would use a dust over.
  10. Talking about the pads: Given the price for Stax earspeakers, I was shocked to learn that the pads are affixed using adhesive sheets. I expected something more “mechanical” than adhesion. One pad is already peeling away a little bit.
  11. I came across a video on YouTube on fitting very different, muff-style pads to the 207, using adhesive sheets & printed adaptor plates. Worthwhile? I would expect the sound to be quite different after that mod. On my 207 pair, the pad profile appears to be angled. I’m considering using 507 pads because they are leather. Those seems to be flat. Would I alter the sound significantly by using the 507 pads? Those adaptor plates feature ports. Do they really make a difference in the bass response? I’m very satisfied with bass reproduction as they are. Does it become muddy or boomy due to t
  12. The SRM-1/Mk-2 has been played everyday for two weeks, and I am very pleased with it. Definitely a more solid sound than that of the SRM-252S. I need to get ready to do the recapping. I am considering replacing that weird & frustrating volume control with a Goldpoint 47-position attenuator, however, I do not know whether it will fit.
  13. I did buy an SRM-1/Mk-2 through eBay a few days ago. I’ve subsequently come across a recapping procedure, so I plan on doing that in the near future. It’s a Model C, and it came out of a studio. It has two pro bias sockets.
  14. I just bought that unit I mentioned earlier. $400. I expect to do work on it, especially recapping.
  15. The title says it all. My SRM-252S seems to be failing, indicated by hum. (It’s the 120V version.) I’ve been discussing it on the Stax thread in Headphones. While I lack the expertise & all of the tools to troubleshoot the amp, I do possess the tools & enough skill to refurb a working SRM-1/Mk-2, a unit I’d get from eBay. I understand the primary work is to replace the caps. Any experience?
  16. I opened it up, and everything looked clean. I was hoping to see something obviously wrong, but there wasn’t anything that looked scorched or singed. I lack the expertise to go probing. I’m a kit builder & modder, not a troubleshooter.
  17. The wall wart says 120V. I presume the screws are beneath the rubber feet. They are stuck-on with tough adhesive. That SRM-1/Mk-2 is again looking attractive.
  18. The saga continues... All seemed fine today until I turned off the amp & pulled the plug from the jack. The hum rose quickly in level & changed in timbre. It then disappeared as the plug left the jack. I could not hear any residual hum in the earspeakers after that. It seems to be an amp issue, for sure. Is it failing?
  19. More on a better amp: Would moving from an SRS-252S to an STM-1/Mk-2 be an improvement, since the 252S is a much newer amp?
  20. I tried my Onkyo with the stats this afternoon. The hum developed, but weakly, and then disappeared. I couldn’t hear it when I switched back to the Sony changer. A mystery.
  21. I’ll do that tonight. I’m not sure a 25-year-plus amp is worth the cost of purchase & refurbishment. That could end-up being $700-$800, if professionally done. I can get an SRM-353X for around $1K, made for North American line voltage, from Elusive Disc.
  22. It’s an eBay listing. He wants $479, plus $20 for shipping. That combo is too expensive for me.
  23. Is $400 a good deal on a “C” model SRM-1/Mk-2 with dual pro bias sockets? It was pulled from a studio. I don’t know its age. If my offer is refused, How high should I go?
  24. Beautiful work! Your clone reminds me that I’m looking for some DIY approach to replacing the “headgear” of my 207 earspeakers. Outstanding transducers, cheap-looking execution. I often fear I’m going to break something by simply handling them. I don’t want to change the transducer housings, just everything else. The pads will be changed to the leather 507 pads in a couple of months.
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