Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Blue Hawaii'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Announcements
    • General Announcements
    • Suggestions
  • Gear
    • Headphones
    • Headphone Amplification
    • Home Source Components
    • Home Theater
    • Portable Audio
    • Audio Accessories
    • Miscellaneous
    • Do It Yourself
    • Speakers
    • Field Recording
  • Manufacturer/Member of the Trade Boards
    • Product Annoucements
  • Entertainment
    • Games
    • Music
    • TV
  • General Category
    • Meets
    • Off Topic
    • Food and Drink
    • Sports Talk
    • GoRedwings19's Computer Help Hotline

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start








Website URL










Headphone Amps


Other Audio Gear

Found 3 results

  1. I and a few others have decided to get the new bipolar version of Blue Hawaii PCB made by PCBnet in US. I used PCBnet for the Carbon GB in 2015 (and other occasions). Their price is higher but we’ve had great experience with their board quality. The boards will be 2mm thick and 4oz copper, green solder mask and white silkscreen in leaded finish. The cost of boards is $30 USD for a set (two PCBs) if we can get 15 sets made. You’ll need to add shipping from me to you for the total cost. Kevin released this latest version of Blue Hawaii in early 2016. I worked with Kevin to trace the board and at least one headcaser has built one working amp with them. This version uses all current production parts except for the 2SK170/LSK389 JFET which are still relatively easy to source. Here is a high level summary of changes from earlier versions of the Blue Hawaii: · KSA1220A/KSC2690A replaces the 2SK216/2SJ79 · 10M90S/DN2540 cascoded CCS replaces the A1968 based CCS · PZTA06 (smd) replaces 2SC1815 and 2SC2240, PZTA56 replaces 2SA970 · FQPF8N80C replaces 2SC3675 for the power supply of the third stage Please PM me or respond to this post here if you are interested. We are already close to meeting the 15 sets quota needed. I plan to close this GB on 8pm CST on Sunday 2/26 and submit the order to PCBnet on Monday 2/27. If you are ready to commit you can also PayPal me at the PayPal ID below. Please remember to include your HeadCase ID and shipping address (please don’t assume I have your shipping address - it’s buried in over one hundred entries in my PayPal account and not easy to find ). EDIT: The LSK389 is still in production just more difficult to source.
  2. First, sincere thanks to everyone who contributed in the forum.I cannot start the project without resources from here. Recently I have finished my KGBH build but it isn't working.The observable problems are the two LEDs connecting 2sa1968 and the one connecting 2sc3675 do not light up as well as those 1968s not heating.Curiously, the amp works for a second every time after i turn the power off,right after the extinguish of the leds connecting the + and - 15v supply. The PSU unit is measured of giving the right voltage. I once thought of giving up the project but before that I try my luck to see anyone who once encounter the same problem or know anything about it. Thank you.
  3. Hopefully I'm at the right place this time. I want to build a kevin gilmore blue hawaii amp. As a starting point I found the original http://headwize.com/?page_id=751 and the more recent http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/BlueHawaii-T2-Servo-v1-2.zip (needs LTSpice). Is there a recent version without servo, with PCB's and all that? CCS is yet partly diskussed, has someone experiance with "mu follower Output" to decouple the complex loads partly from the tubes (see schematic)? What about a PS if no 500V pnp is found? From the PSRR viewpoint I'd start with the concept: "care about higher harmonics, PSRR can start to decrease at a cut-off in the 1 kHz region. And: just in that > 1kHz range, where the measured PSRR comes in, additionally whatsoever interactions between PS and music could come in as well. So starting out with "1 V ripple on the output won't be DIRECTLY audible" could work, but I'd like to have some more safty. So what about a good old plain and simple low-pass with (no 6dB/oct, not L...) R*C*2pi=1Hz first? (Ok, R2 burns some W if some mA is needed, but there is enough space, 150R will do too.)
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.