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bwck2000

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bwck2000 last won the day on February 5 2019

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About bwck2000

  • Rank
    Limited Edition Bronze Participant

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  • Location
    Hong Kong
  • Headphones
    es1a and omega
  • Headphone Amps
    Kgsshv

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  1. Nice write up, from the amount of measurement graphs I can see how much effort you have put to it. Trimming down regions across the spectrum that you think is too much is a much more direct way to get a sound desired than trying out different gears. The 2K-3K region is particularly sensitive to our ears. To my experience, elevating it increase the glossiness of sound, adding more presence to each instrument and give people a good first impression on audition that it is a headphone with good sound quality. While lowering it make the headphone more relaxing, tolerable to long-term listening but the vocal might sounds void. I have spent a lot of time choosing parameters of earpad for es1a. I have had an earpad with inner face of the earpad cut open so that the foam is exposed to absorb this particular range. But I really like the nasal sound the default pad makes.......This experimental earpad sounds void and is not suitable to be chosen as default. The default one also sounds closer to the original omega.
  2. You can use a multimeter to check the balance and offset of the amp that if they are on zero or anything near it. Another way to work on it is to loosen the 5 silver screw on the driver a bit using a hexagon screw driver.
  3. I have an es1a (omega clone ) loaner unit in US right now. I wonder anyone here would be interested to try them out ? Shoot me a pm if you do.
  4. I have an es1a loaner unit in US right now. I wonder anyone here would be interested to try them out ? Shoot me a pm if you do.
  5. I am using a1968 so its 450v config. Unlike the carbon, it has no adjustable ccs current so I didnt measure it. Maybe I need to order a pair of new heatsinks with longer fins. Its also a fail with no ventilation openings at the bottom but on the top only.
  6. I managed to get my kgsshv project done without creating some big mess and spark, and I want to thank KG for his design , Birgir and many member here for their generous contributions. oyaide L/i50 OFC is used as umbilical cords but is not shown here. later on a L/R balance control will be installed. The power and the amplifying section is about the same size so they can be stacked together. The heat sink size is less than ideal and it runs so hot that I can barely touch. My IR thermometer reads 47 oc but I think it is inaccurate due to the shiny appearance of the heatsink. But then I think at least these heat sinks are bigger than those on-board ones so this should not be a problem. Two stax plug are installed becoz I have dozens of them taken apart from stax extension cords. There are some small issues during startup. The power supply board had some sparking on the bias section becoz some paint is off and probably there are some small filament peeled off from the leg of the 1n4007. It needs some epoxy to cover up the arcing spot. There is also something with the amp board. At first there is no sound, balance sits at 700v and two burnt 50k resistor on each board next to the stn9360. It turns out that I installed some mpsa06 instead. Luckily it fires up after replacement. The first second it plays it blows 717 away. Big soundstage , great dynamic and details. Pretty much no complain and is hard to beat except that vocal can be more engaging. Drives omega, es1a and 007 equally well. I think it somehow sounds sweeter than the carbon I built long thime ago.
  7. You can check out here for reviews from users and loaner program participants, may give you some insight. There is also a video of es1a vs 009 AB comparison recording. Although the recording quality is not too good but it provide some references.
  8. I am glad to have received positive impressions on the es1a from chinsettawong and spritzer, Really appreciate that🤩 es1a is an alternative to totl electrostatics like the 007 mk1 and 009 for people who dislike their darkness/brightness, or owners of them who want to try something new. The es1a is brilliant in some aspects, and so do the 007 mk1 and 009. I particularly enjoy the wide soundstage, naturalness and airy, transparent highs of es1a. I hope that es1a will be refreshing to the community, since the 007 mk1 and 009 have been out for like a decade or two already. Es1a inherits some key elements from the original omega -- its neutralness , big soundstage ,and sense of spaciousness. But its true to say that they are two different creatures. I actually hear more people saying es1a sounds like an 009s than saying es1a sounds like an omega lmao. But the reason I kept the omega appearance is more from a cosmetic and marketing prespective, and perhaps it fills the little void in my heart that I used to not own an omega in my collection.So as the light headband clamping force it contributes to the non-fatigue listening experience of es1a and mimics what it is on omega but its not too friendly if you want to move around wearing it.
  9. I guess there is no need for a port mod anymore? The idea of the port mod is to do the role the little white piece does, blocking the ventilation path but the piece is preserved after a driver replacement in your 007.
  10. Two completely different creature, cant compare as if between two lambda models. The most obvious difference would be the soundstage. Its like a Jazz cafe VS a cathedral. The L700 sigma still holds lambda-level detail and transparency, unlike the original sigma. But the detail and the high frequency on the l700 sigma are just not as apparent as the L700.
  11. A milestone of my rare stax hunt: Quattro II🤪 So basically its a third-party CDP with a enlarged chassis, a very sophisticated power supply + DAC . They have separate power supplies for left and right channel as well as the digital section. The CD section has a plastic case but it is put in another aluminium case and on a wood base where the dac section is located. The CD pickup is Sanyo sf-88. Before the aged parts are replaced, The CDP sounded very neutral, fatigue-free with a special sense of spaciousness, but there was no real bass and dynamic. Then those big electrolytic caps are replaced with Nichicon KG , and Cardas rca and Furutech power socket are installed .After servicing the bass and dynamic is back. But it sounds a bit warm than before.
  12. While amateurs depend on luck and trials, you have craftsmanship 🤩 The most important thing needed to make great electrostatics......
  13. A dust free environment means a confined space with dust-free air sipply from HEPA Units filtering particles down to um-level and a positive air pressure to make sure that airflow is one-way-out only. It could be as small as a brench or as big as a factory. A normal working space along with a air purifier sitting at the corner or thorough cleaning is definately not a dust free enviroment, far from it. But in reality, there are some people who open their e stat driver, put it back and nothing happen. So whether dust gets into the driver or not is simply by chance. But if you do not want to throw the dice everytime , a dust free environment is definately needed. Some headphone makers revise e-stat designs from the typical stax type to make it less prone to dust contaminations so a dust free enviroment might not be necessary, but not for stax drivers.
  14. There is a possibility that the heating effect of the brass ring during the soldering process decrease the tensile strength of diaphragm and ultimately teared by aging, vibrations, its own tension etc.
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