mugdecoffee

We measured impedance of simple circuits in one of my electrical engineering labs with some software but the soundcard interface might not work well with low impedances. I could if there was a way to measure impedance with a function generator and scope. The design I followed (Overnight Sensations - undefinition) specified a 6" port. Would tuning still be necessary? I'd actually be thrilled to work in a real shop but I won't have a car this year. If the bondo is doable without a fancy sander I'll give it a shot. I have a few days until the drivers come anyways. Do you use any special screws to attach the baffle? Right now I have some basic drywall ones. Those boxes look amazing. Once I get everything together I'd love some finishing tips.

It sounds like bondo takes some skill to apply and I'm not sure I'd end up with worse looking cabinets. I also don't have a belt sander, only a cheap orbital palm sander. For the baffle, those foam sheets sound perfect. Would you stick them on the front of the cabinet then screw the baffle on? Also more generally, how important is sealing? Will a small air escape cause a significant change in sound? Is it somewhat less important in a ported enclosure?

I'd been wanting to build a pair of speakers for a while and finally took the plunge this summer. Right now I've pretty much finished up the bare cabinets and am waiting for a pair of drivers and a couple cross over components to finish them up. So far everything's gone well but I have a couple of questions. With this being my first build, some of my cuts aren't absolutely perfect and so after gluing the panels together, some panels jutted out just a little bit. I ground down the seams which made the surface smooth but now the box isn't perfectly square especially around a couple of corners. You can't really tell by looking but the boxes don't quite sit flat. Would I be able to add a layer of bondo to make up the missing MDF? Would it be better to grid down everything until it was level? As a backup solution, I figure I could always just add some spikes. Secondly, do you usually glue on the front baffle? That would make the strongest/most airtight bond but it bothers me that the entire box would be glued together with no way to fix anything later.

That article was immensely helpful for me. I fully understand resistance/current/power/etc but tubes still give me a hard time. Your explanations definitely filled in some holes. Few things I still find confusing/have questions about: -For grid voltage vs. plate current, the way I thought tubes worked is that the electrons glow off of the cathode, go past the grid, and hit the plate. This would make current flowing from plate to grid. Also, I thought that a more negative grid would repel the electrons flying off the cathode thus lessening current. In your explanation, both these directions are backwards. Am I missing something, maybe something to do with electron flow vs current flow? -What determines the rp? Can it be modeled as a resistor somewhere in the way that output resistance can? I can't quite picture where the resistance is in the circuit. -How does a choke swing voltages over the PSU voltage? I guess this question is more in a physical sense.

I powered my K340s with a Bijou for a while with the NFB turned all the way down and for some things I needed more gain so I disabled removed the pot (at least while I had the K340s). Even with the NFB pot turned all the way down, there is still a fair bit being applied. After comparing with and without the NFB pot, I decided to keep it in but I always keep it at its minimum. As far as Grados, I tried my bijou with HF-2s and was very underwhelmed. I think the amp doesn't do well into low impedance phones. NFB didn't help much if at all.