Shaman

Should be trivial just as long as we have enough I/O pins for the IR receiver.

Ok, so we're at 4 x preamp boards + 2 x input boards + 2 x KG attenuator boards for balanced! How're things on the software side? Any progress?

Hmm.. This baby is going to need two full size enclosures I'm thinking 4 x preamp boards + 1 x input board + 2 x KG attenuator boards + local regulation in "audio box". Transformers/rectifiers/1st bank of caps (or PS with remote sensing skipping regulation in audio box) + display + arduino/whatever in the "noisy box". I2C and Power supply (and potentially remote sensing) connections between the boxes.

It uses a Zetex DDFA chip.

Haven't tried with Tridents on any of my Buffalos tbh. Some people have been replacing Tridents with low voltage Salas shunts with good results (allegedly). I wouldn't go that far. A DAC has an analog and a digital side. In practice a PS that might be good for the analog side is probably not appropriate to power, say, an oscillator. Power supply differences are evident both objectively and subjectively. I'm not sure how much is that much but surely the threshold at which we stop to bother about it is for each one to decide for himself. Btw, when you do find that massive rolleyes smiley do let me know (hope you don't mind if I borrow it).

Great work! I've built quite a few of those babies (been herding buffalos since their first generation - Buffalo 24). I'd recommend you try them with Salas shunts. You'll be surprised with the difference to the Placids.

I was considering Sigma22 as well or even Salas shunts if current consumption is not too high but I'll wait for KGs recommendations.

Thank you. If there is no room on arduino to control an extra relay, it'll either have to be done manually (via switch - which will kinda ruin this elegant design) or via the way you propose. I'm not interested in HC stuff but sometimes I listen with my DAC directly on my power amp. It'd be nice not having to stand up and fiddle with cables etc.

Sorry if this has been mentioned before but will there be an option (or an easy mod even) to allow for one of the preamp's inputs to be switched to "direct mode" (aka linked to the output without intervention of preamp/volume etc)?

Hey guys, Could you please guide me to a source for good quality prototyping boards in EU/shipping to EU? Also, I have trouble finding black M3 screws at affordable prices. Any ideas are more than welcome!

Erm, does that other thing happen to be group buy material at that other place?

Susumu are great. So are Neutrik. I use the latter in all my builds and I really like the fact that they have the same D-Type cut-out for all sorts of connectors (RCA, XLR, RJ45, HDMI, BNC, you name it...). People who'll be using the standard build (which includes the on-board Neutriks) could actually benefit from a real panel GB as well... I don't see much room for customization anyway and the tolerances will be minimal.. Hardest part will be agreeing on a case.

Cost is not prohibitive, IMHO, for a preamp of this class, just as long as someone doesn't go wild on exotic parts and connectors. Neutriks are just fine, for example, but I'm sure there are people who'll find them "not hi-end enough" for them. Judging by the attenuator, I think there'll be enough interest for a GB, thus making pricing even more attractive. Will we be able to see measurements etc of the finished product?

That's what I was going to suggest as well. The THAT1200 series of balanced line receivers and the THAT1600 series of balanced line drivers seem very interesting. I have all parts needed to breadboard a 1646 (based on the evaluation board BOM) which will be used as an unbalanced to balanced converter, but I still haven't got round to it. Nice to see the progress on KGITSOJC!

Nice to see some action again in this thread! I have a pair of "digital attenuator" boards waiting for their matching KGITSOJC boards.

Kerry, could I have two parts kits without the boards (I already got two boards)?

Got my boards as well! Thanks for everything and looking forward to the KGITSOJC!

I'd say the Vishay MELF SMDs that Max suggested are our best bet. We can only go as low as 24k though.