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s_r

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Posts posted by s_r

  1. Most likely for my build. At extreme left I got some ground hum, so justin suggested putting in 100ohm resistors after the pot. Dead silent at both extremes now so no complaints.
     
    Might put up a pic of my kgsshv's inside a few days from now, since I reworked the wiring a bit since the last pic I have up here.

    Edit: Here's that pic

    HNqBQ0Um.jpg

  2. I'm getting some weird behavior out of the latching switch on the front of my kgsshv. I noticed the LED is dimmer than it should be and decided to do a quick check with the DMM to see what's going on. Apparently I'm getting +9V/-15V (relative to star ground) instead of +12V/-12V. Really not sure what to blame here, as the switch LED crapping out on me happened once before. At least it still 'works', for now...

  3. I made a few changes to the inside of my HV recently. Put in the much larger encapsulated trafo and tidied up the wiring a bit. However I haven't figured out what to do with the ground hum at the pot's extreme left. Anything I should try first to see exactly where the issue is?
     
    q0BO66vm.jpg

     

    Also SoupRKnowva, I'm not sure about pushing it past 10mAx4 with IXYS parts. It would probably drift a considerable amount.

  4. Did Peter consider buzzing to be a need for replacement or did you simply opt for getting the encapsulated version? There is a very light buzzing from one of the transformers but only audible if my head is within 3 feet with the cover off - so not really concerned.

     

    The buzzing was audible with the cover on & a few feet away, so I opted for the encapsulated replacement. Quite a bit larger than the old transformer (133mm OD and 70mm height) but it makes about as much noise on as it does off.

  5. Congrats on the T2, looks beautiful. Before I got a fully encapsulated replacement from sumr (old transformer was buzzing) I measured about 50-60C on the trafo in my KGSSHV. You can shoot sumr an email if you're worried, but it's not too much hotter than what I measured for mine.

  6. So there's one more working KGSSHV in the world. :laugh:
     
    Finally received the last parts I was waiting for to finish the replacement board, and it worked on the first try. Giving it longer on-time the side heatsinks reached ~40C. I got the balance & offset on both boards to zero as well. Not that warm at all considering it's running at 10mAx4. It also makes the SRM1/MK2 look tiny.
     
    One thing though, if I turn the volume pot all the way to the left I can hear some ground hum. It's dead silent with a little turn to the right & up to max volume though. The grounding looks the same as I had it in my last internals pic (save for only one ground wire coming off the pot instead of two). This isn't just a quirk of the alpha quad is it?

    lXBorNcm.jpg

    1LzBeaBm.jpg

    BZgjqHom.jpg

    lrpbfzmm.jpg

  7. How much output current could one really get away with for the offboard version? I actually had my working board running at ~10mA by swapping R5 and R6 with 100ohm resistors. After nearly an hour being on the outside of the heatsink reached about 37C, also the lowest I could get the offset was 7V.

  8. Well, I swapped all the sand save for the 1968s & 4686s and the board still doesn't work (same behaviour). Would anyone be kind enough to spare some 4686s? I'm building a new amp board at this point since it seems like it might be the output transistors that are the problem (or who knows what). On a positive note I've done all the wiring (feel free to point out any stupids).

     

    post-3922-0-78825100-1369453376_thumb.jp

  9. D13 is right beside the 2SC1815 (Q20). I'll try swapping a few 4686's with spares, and D10 too since that looks suspicious to me (since it's right beside the +15 input).

     

    Edit: Well it's not any blown LEDs, they all light up after applying voltage directly to them. Still puzzled as to what would cause only D13 to light up. Also, measuring the -HV input on the problem board I get about -63V (-459V on the working board).

  10. Well, there are no burn marks or anything visual that would indicate a bad part. I'll try and see if any of the 4686/1968's are blown (sure hope not though).

     

    Edit: It doesn't seem like the output transistors are the problem, their hfe all check out according to the spec sheet and unless I'm reading my multimeter wrong they seem to pass the diode test. Only D13 lighting up seems a little weird to me though, shouldn't D10 be lit as well?

  11. So after testing the boards I got one to balance & offset fine. However there's a problem with the other board. Only one LED lights up (D13). I checked beforehand for possible shorts and didn't see anything, also made sure to hook the signal inputs to ground. Any obvious spots I should check first?

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