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  1. I'll opt for partially assembled boards, thanks.
  2. I'll take partial assembly if it means some peace of mind when it comes to the HV boards, personally.
  3. Please add me for the following: 4x GRHVxxx2x GRLV79xx2x GRLV78xx2x Main Board2x miniT2 Thanks.
  4. Been busy listening to this, just replacing the output resistors was enough. I suppose lesson learned is that as soon as you stop looking for rookie mistakes is exactly when they happen.
  5. Don't think I've seen a failure mode like this, but while testing this carbon's amp boards the 5.1k resistors let out the magic smoke. I remember spritzer mentioning that a steel screw should be fine for the crees. Could a short from the screw be possible though? As far as I can tell nothing else blew up. I did spot a stupid mistake which was not soldering the base & emitter legs of the STN9360 nearest to the 2SK170s on one of the boards. I don't think that would cause the same failure in both boards though. Edit: I realized I had the HV supply hooked into the outputs of the board. Talk about stupid mistake. Though I guess that explains why the output resistors were the only components to cook.
  6. It's a good thing I have a decent hakko desoldering gun then. I'll take your word for it, but I'm just worried about taking the pads with it as I lift the RK50 off.
  7. I wish I knew. I've since tried removing the thermal paste from all the sand on the right channel in case it was shorting somewhere. No change though. Next thing I could try is putting .1uF bypass caps on the voltage set resistors in the PSU. If that doesn't do anything my next WAG is the RK50 being responsible somehow. Desoldering the RK50 seems like it'd be a huge headache, and a risk to damaging the solder points (the pins were a snug fit even before soldering them in).
  8. Where did you source the high voltage wire from? Probably won't be starting a circlotron build myself all that soon but it'd be nice to have beforehand.
  9. As I suspected, the sporadic noise hasn't actually gone for good. I've tried reflowing more joints just in case but that didn't do it. If it helps pinpoint things at all I've noticed that the back right EL34 has a tendency to physically ring. Even if the tubes are swapped around, the tube in that position starts to ring. I've tried putting in mullards, which didn't ring, so maybe the mesas are just more susceptible to ring as a result of whatever is going on.
  10. s_r


    The strapmaker is combat straps, based in Montreal. Also made shipping alligator leather a little simpler than if I ordered elsewhere. This pic shows a bit more of the dial texture, though it's still not quite how it looks in person. Gotta love the acrylic domes that these old watches tended to have too.
  11. s_r


    Really can't capture how nice the linen dial looks in photos. The 5740C is a pretty great movement, very accurate & the smoothness of the seconds hand is nice. Got the strap hand made since I wanted grey with round-scale alligator lining.
  12. Well I've reflowed a bunch of joints (probably more than was needed). Since then I haven't had problems with oscillation, excessive offset, etc. The sporadic noise seems to have gone as well, but of course just as I say that it'll come back to spite me. Anyway, thanks for the help. I think I can stop fucking with it and just use it to listen to music.
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