ang728
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Posts posted by ang728
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faulty transistors may cause that happen , I will try replace KSPs first
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6 hours ago, sbelyo said:
ok thanks...
Does anyone have a 30V +/- working?
been built several builds,they all working fine
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2 hours ago, rumina said:
Not a Mini Dynalo but a small one. Finished my Dynalo today, thanks to this forum and the members the build was easy and free of trouble, thanks everyone. Was fun to put it in a small case and solve this puzzle. Also a big thanks to Kevin Gilmore for this design and sharing it with us.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/2231
Thanks to sbelyo for the group buy of the pcbs.
man..same thoughts here, but I failed squeezing GRLV in it,lol
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latter for sure
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49 minutes ago, mtoc said:
edit 2: the transformer I think I will choose 12vac, 15vac or 18vac (all *2 models), among these three.
If your transformer voltage are rated at load ,you can possibly go 12VAC to cover 12V and 13.5V, 15VAC to cover 15VDC .
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Take from Pars's pic,Change those 1.5K resistor,top and bottom ones are R8,R9
for V+: (R8 + R7) / R7 x 10 (reference voltage of D5 - LT1021-10)
for V-: (R9 + R10) / R10 x 10 (reference voltage of D7 - LT1021-10)
For 15V you can go 750R,1.5K Set
others you may need to change different voltage version of LT1021
don't need to change caps and OPAs for voltages you mentioned ,but you may need to change zenzer value to voltage/2
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54 minutes ago, ti5002000 said:
i just came to left a photo of my Dynahi and also to thank all those who help specially Kevin Gilmore ,the man himself,for all the patience with me ( and even when he didn´t have it) and all his clarifications. Without that now i don´t have the Dynahi to show.
About the amplifier himself it is truly neutral in my opinion .you change a thing in sound chain ,and you notice the change.Fantastic.
Also the sound balance is a bliss .My HD800 with my Chord 2Qute are at his best.
FANTASTIC REALLY.
Nice!! gald to see you tackle all the problems
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51 minutes ago, Thai Tao said:
Thanks you guys, actually that engraving and drill hole for audio jack (the volume pot hole come with the stock panel) cost me only 5$, incredible cheap!
super cheap ! I saw breeze audio's box in the background.Did the chasis and engraving make by breeze audio?
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That engraving ! Well done~
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On 2016/11/23 at 0:15 AM, Pars said:
Commenting on ang728's board layout: an additional output connector would be nice when feeding a pair of dynalo/dynahi boards.
Provision for other rectifier diodes would also be nice though not a must have. Accommodating 3 bridges worth of those would add some footprint to the board I would think.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThanks Pars !
12 hours ago, Pars said:A couple of parts questions:
1. The 4.7uf Wima. Anything critical about this value. I have 3.3uf and I believe 10uf in the MKS2XL. Ordering 4.7uf but until I get them wanted to try firing this up.
2. The 47pf ceramic. I have some 33pf mica, would this do until I get the 47pf caps?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk4.7uf WIMAs are used for bypass cap,not a problem to go lower values,I have some board use 2.2uF,not a problem.
OPA134s can go as low as 22pf but I'm not sure it will maintain stable when OPA-rolling.I will stick to 47pf
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3 hours ago, Pars said:
Just checking, but the KSP42/92 used for this are the same thing as MPSA42/92? The datasheet parameters (those I checked) appeared to be the same. Since I have MPSAs, I'll go ahead and use them. Don't remember what I bought them for, but it was awhile ago...
EDIT: typed MPSW instead of MPSA
same,only difference between is being made by FSC or ON Semi IIRC
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Kinda rebuild&upgrade
mainly switched voltage regulators from Sigma 22 to GRLV,
Owner siad he can totally feel the improvment.
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On 2016/10/21 at 0:15 AM, Pars said:
Speaking of using a GRLV for higher voltages, if I wanted to do somewhere in the range of 40-50Vdc, where would I need to go for voltage ratings with the various caps, particularly the tants? 32Vac secondaries. Thinking that one of these may be lower noise than the raw PSU/shunt setup on a Salas folded phono stage.
EDIT: more like 35V. Also, the stock R7/R10 are 1.5K. I noted Kevin saying he went back to 2K precision resistors here for his +/- 20V. 2K would make getting the 35V easier (2K / 4.99K)
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou will need to change tant caps voltage rating above 25v
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2 hours ago, Pars said:
Any problem with using something other than the OPA134 for this? I normally use TL071/081 or the dual for servos. This isn't exactly a servo, and I thought I had noted someone (KG) advising OPA445 if doing higher voltage on the GRLV.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkTried LME49710 on +-15,+- 24,+-30V before, works fine
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A friend of mine slightly modified GRLV, adding multiple output terminal blocks, changing bridge rectifier type and widen the capacitor space,all the AMB like configuration and UCC bypass cap placing.Others are the same as original GRLV.
We run a small batch, tested Okay but silkscreen is bit off and forgot to output compoment values ,but not big deal.
may release some surplus boards
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10 hours ago, sbelyo said:
cool thanks... I have a set from like 2011 or 12 and wanted to compare
is there an advantage over mitred vs not?
mind to post pics of your own boards?
no difference at audio frequencies,just for mental healthiness ,lol
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As far as I Know... current versions: ssdynahibalsmt.zip : SMD PZTA transistors,offboard heatsinks ssdynahibalsmth.zip : SMD PZTA transistors,onboard heatsinks ssdynahibalsmthm.zip : SMD PZTA transistors,onboard heatsinks, mitred trace corners ssdynahibalsmtm.zip : SMD PZTA transistors,offboard heatsink, mitred trace corners
older Ver.
dynahibal8f.zip : MPSW transistors,onboard heatsinks dynahibal9.zip : MPSW transistors,offboard heatsinks
My previous build is dynahibal9 and I also have a v8 build working
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3 hours ago, congo5 said:
what voltage do you want?
I do not understand Kevin's method
so came up with this:
desired voltage x 150 -1500 = R8, R9
40v is 40 x150=6000 -1500=4500
30v is 3kR
25v is 2250RPost it again for reminder
for V+: (R8 + R7) / R7 x 10 (reference voltage of D5 - LT1021-10)for V-: (R9 + R10) / R10 x 10 (reference voltage of D7 - LT1021-10)
congo5's way is also right assuming that you have fixed R7,R10 's value.
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15 minutes ago, Pars said:
Very nicely done! Who/where is the case from? Agree that the wiring could probably be cleaned up a bit, maybe a pcb for the pot wiring would help? Routing down the center like you did is good though.
I ordered from a Taobao seller ,but I'm not sure whether they have any ebay business or reseller
Thanks ! Was trying to use mounting PCB but I forgot to restock (faceplam).Will going to tie them to look more tidy
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Finished a build for my friend,still crappy at wiring job.....
This one's gain is set at 16X under balanced mode,powered with 2xsimga 22 PSU,will post more photos after tuning knob arrived
Sound amazing like any other KG design ,EPIC !
my own onboard heatsink /w KG Goldrefrence PSUs version also coming
update with feet installed
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39 minutes ago, MLA said:
Just double checking: 120ma, not mv? Can't get near the ma version, so thought I'd ask before pulling things apart...
YES,it's 120mA,you should have 1.2V reading across 10R
but 100mA-110mA sounds best IMO
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On 2016/5/28 at 2:26 AM, jdhore said:
I'm curious and i'm no expert on amp design by any means...
Will a 4-pin male XLR Balanced -> 1/4" female TRS jack adapter work with a balanced Dynalo Mk2?
I know a bunch of balanced amps get very unhappy when you "convert" their output to single-ended and i'm wondering if Dynalo Mk2 has that issue as well. I want to have one amp that can drive both my headphones I have balanced cables for and the headphones that I don't or can only be single-ended.
Thanks!
why don't try combo XLR Jacks ? they can do both 3pin XLR and Single-ended TRS,but sure 5 pin XLR with converting cable is a good choice also
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Slowly getting some progress and other parts coming
p.s still got 3 sets of CAST/ubal to bal board left
KGSSHV Carbon Build Thread
in Do It Yourself
Posted · Edited by ang728
I'm not applying too much thermal grease on ceramic thermal pads and angle brackets but sufficient to have good thermal contacts
My approach is applying thermal grease at about pea size then screw all the compoments together,let the pressure spread out the grease.