llamallama

Just a note for anyone using the BHSE video to adjust Offset and Balance, the video has it backwards. L+/L- is adjusting Balance (not Offset as the screen overlay says). And L+/Ground is Offset (not Balance).

mwl168, thanks for the explanation! It's probably obvious, but just wasn't to me and I must have been adjusting the wrong trimpot. I followed this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdMR9pZ3IcQ of adjusting the Headamp BHSE. The video didn't say what was being adjusted first, I just assumed he was adjusting offset first (L+/L-, R+/R-) when it's balance he's adjusting first!

The rev0.2 amp has a set of connectors marked I+ I- GND -15 +15. I+/I+ connects to XLR pins 2 and 3, and -15/15+ connects to the PSU. Does the GND go to the star ground? This GND doesn't appear in johnwmclean's wiring diagram. I'm following this diagram and connecting XLR pin 1 (ground) to the raw chassis metal via a short wire.

I'm finishing up a build but I can't seem to get the offset to zero. I understand to adjust the offset involves getting the Stax jack L+/L- and R+/R- close to zero, turning the trimpot. Currently I'm getting -90V on the Left channel and can't get it closer to 0. The Right channel is worse, something like 120V out. The board LEDs all light up, and everything is running cool/warm. I am using the rev0.2 amp and rev0.6 PSU boards. The multimeter is showing PSU: Probe on +450 and -450 reads 880V Probe on +450 and GND reads 440V Probe on -450 and GND reads 440V Probe on +15 and -15 reads 30V Amp: Probe on +VCC and -VCC reads 880V Probe on +VCC and GND reads 440V Probe on -VCC and GND reads 440V Probe on 15+ and 15- reads 30V

Does anyone know the max or typical power consumption (e.g. watts) of a full sized KGSSHV? I was thinking of running it off a PS power plant.

AU is now officially 230V, so 250V is just about the top margin. I'm in Sydney as well, I checked my outlets this weekend and it was 235V.

Thanks johnwmclean, you're right, this is a single primary transformer. Will have to reorder one /w dual primaries.

I just realised the transformer I have isn't 115-0-115-0, but rather 115-0-115. Can 115/230 switching still be done with the IEC module? In series, lugs 3 and 4 are inactive. In parallel, all four lugs are active. I'm not sure how to connect two 115 lines sharing a single 0. Guessing... 230v: Connect one 115v to P and the other 115v to N. For 115v: Connect one 115v to P, and 0v to N.

I'm looking for some help and extra pair of eyes on wiring a power entry module, push button, and transformer. Context: - Mains is 230v - The power module is 115-230v switchable. It doesn't change the voltage, but I believe if wired correctly to the transformer (with 115v dual primaries) it can switch between parallel and series - I plan to leave the power module switched ON on the back, then use the front push button to switch the amp ON and OFF This is my current wiring diagram: - I'm not sure if I'm wiring things in 115v series correctly - Not sure how to wire the LED push button light so that when the button is ON, the LED is ON. I understand there's a resistor between there somewhere References: - Push button switch http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/cwscilluminated.pdf - Power entry module http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1511815.pdf

Two questions regarding PCB grounding and power PCB connection: Should I use nylon or metal spacers to secure the PCBs? Does it make a difference if I'm already running wires to a star ground point? On the power PCB (rev 0.6) there is the connector "CT AC30 AC30". Where do the CT and AC30 connect to? The transformer has secondary 16V-0-16V wires

I have a grounding question relating to the the XLR ground (Pin 1). Earlier in the forum it’s mentioned: “… XLR pin 1 should not be connected [to star ground]. it should be connected to the chassis through the shortest path possible.” Similarly, in johnwmclean wiring diagram, each XLR Pin1 is connected to the chassis by itself. What I wanted to clarify: Can the two Pin 1 wires be soldered to the same spot on the chassis? In the diagram they are connected at two different spots What’s the reason for not connecting Pin1 to star ground? I.e. All ground wires into one point

Hi. I noticed that I can not search posts by User name, and also can't post in the classified section. How does one get access to these features? Thanks.

I noticed the nice NKK push button switches have functions that are either ON-ON or ON-(momentary ON). I'm not sure what it means to be ON-ON, I thought it should be ON-OFF? The data sheet also indicates ON-ON. http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/UB16KKW01N-F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMufv8JNQ5fVHaG9l0kRAbB%252bJnaW9ZKhTy0%3d

You take off the cover and there's a switch on the right hand side of the outer case, it's marked.

Stay encouraged!

In the Stax 717 amp (and maybe others) there is a volume bypass control switch. Would turning a pot or stepped attenuator to the maximum achieve the same effect? I'm worried that turning the volume up will clip the amp.

Hi. I was wondering what is the purpose of a balanced stereo pot (e.g. how are they different). I noticed some people use balanced stereo units like the ALPS RK27114, and a few have upgraded to the RK50 which is stereo. When selecting a pot or attenuator, how important is it to choose balanced stereo models? The inputs are XLR (if that makes a difference).