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About Tinkerer

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  1. When I originally fired it up, the voltages seemed to automatically compensate for any adjustment I made. I would guess I because both halves are connected since I'm using a center tap setup. With all the stuff minus the boards and brackets installed, this was getting a little too heavy to move around by myself. It's easily a hundred and twenty pounds but it's the bulk that's killer. So I went ahead and put it where It's going to stay, next to my desk and shuffled everything else around. I just thought it was worth showing the T1W next to it for a size comparison. Final assembly continues, but it's mostly just cosmetic stuff like lengthening the transformer leads and sleeving them to make them look pretty while I wait on the last couple parts. This monster is definitely going to need a friend to help me move it if it ever budges from this spot.
  2. Alright, getting ready to get all the stuff together. Casework minus labels is done. Secondary power circuit is together and works, powering the solid state relay and the case LED's. Left it on all day. Voltage divider circuit doesn't get too hot and controls LED brightness fine. Inputs up to the pot are all wired. Keyed bypass switch works in all three positions (normal, potentiometer bypass, and loop out only). Audio wire shields all connected to chassis ground. Audio grounds themselves kept to their separate channels. Tried to test my GRLV+ as my last PSU board but I was a dumbass and didn't put the NPN/PNP MJF TO-220 pair in. Didn't realize I used two MJF15031's until I started it up and got horribly lopsided voltages. So a couple days until that part comes in. Also, what's the pots for on the GRLV+ again? Looks like they balance between the two halves of each circuit, but I'm not sure where to attach the multimeter leads to measure it. On the side of the 1M resistors closest to the pot? If anyone else is anywhere near completion on theirs and has run into any problems not mentioned in the thread. Now's the time to say something. Otherwise, I just had a couple stupid questions. You can run this single ended since it's basically a carbon with a circlotron output stage bolted on the front, right? EDIT:found the answer to CT transformer grounding. But now I'm wondering if having my grounding terminal block with two bolts to the chassis was such a good idea. Might have to isolate one of those screws. I think if nothing explodes in the next few days, it should be playing music by this time next week.
  3. One thing on the GRLV board. The diode bridge holes for using a center tapped transformer are smaller than the regular two on either side. I didn't notice until I was putting it together and had to drill it out a bit to fit. You especially have to be careful not to lift the Negative VDC trace that connects from the top of the board. Just a heads up for anyone else that might need to do the same thing.
  4. Speaking of prices, I need to replace the sear spring on my old Iver Johnson Supershot top break. I've always done all my own gunsmithing but this is a pain in the ass where you have to knock out a number of pins and there's no exploded diagram easily available. I already got the part and a spare since they're only $2. The question is about how much would the price be for a real gunsmith to get it done? I know it's a cheap plinker but it has sentimental value. I'll drop a couple hundred bucks if that's what it takes.
  5. Can somebody explain to me why the potentiometer board has a split ground plane? Isn't each XLR cable supposed to be grounded at the case and then the potentiometer on a single ground plane for the amp that connects to a star ground?
  6. Yeah, just an old helipot precision potentiometer. It tracks extremely well and I don't fool with volume too much so I figured I'd give it a try. I don't mind giving up log volume control for the price difference between it and an RK50. We'll see if it was a dumb gamble or not once I get it all together. I got the parts to replace it with a more standard 4 gang audio pot if I need to.
  7. Getting some of the last back panel stuff done by hand before I give it a new coat of pain and labels. This is the relative position of everything near the back panel. I just needed to know if it's a problem to have a solid state relay and that little power supply that close to the volume pot.
  8. Most of the semis were the same price for me. Some stuff like the small fets were cheaper but out of stock. Similar situation on a number of CF60's in the right values. I remember I got a better deal on the main power caps, the tantalums, LED's, opamps, sockets and the voltage refs were cheaper than digikey,
  9. This would have been real handy when I was making my order yesterday instead of me digging everything up by hand. Also, somebody mentioned Arrow the other day, and I got about half my parts for cheaper from them including the voltage ref. The free ground shipping helped a lot too in making a split order between them and mouser.
  10. I can't believe how compact that all is. Makes my circlotron case seem even more ridiculous than it already is. I would hazard it's plain old heat shrink used to force the flat parts together to help keep the temperature drift between the two more in line.
  11. It's because the natural sources are so limited. Imagine if the federal government hadn't nationalized the reservoir in Texas all those years ago. Of course that might bite everyone in the ass now that the public production part of that agreement is coming to an end.
  12. I rewired my 007 MK I. Like most things, you just have to not be scared of it and have steady hands. It was more of a pain in the butt to find a place that had a spare cable in stock and figure out how to disassemble them without instructions than the actual recabling. It's just 3 small gauge wires soldered to 3 small soldering pads on each driver. The only trick is to do it quick, because if you sit there and pump a lot of heat into a thin polymer diaphragm, that can end badly. In other news, I had one of those days where I got both a good surprise and a disappointment at the same time. Got my T1W in and opened it up. Somebody went through the trouble to replace all the main power caps and the tubes the last few years. You could tell both by how good they looked and how the main board was squeaky clean while the pot and input boards had the appropriate 20+ years of dust on them. So once I changed the voltage to 117 local, I fired it up and it works perfectly. Balance and offset could be better, but within acceptable specs. I don't know how much of that is the tubes wearing or if they adjusted it at all. The pots seem to be in the default position. Will get it tweaked right in short order. So much for it being listed as "junk". Not sure if I even want to build the solid state tube replacements at this point. Probably should just to see how different it sounds since I have almost all the parts anyway. Just waiting on those sinks.
  13. One thing about the hammond sets, they're really nice but the main screw is not always the right size for certain transformers. Sometimes the washer too. Like with toroidy transformers matched by VA, the rubber pads are the right size, but the screw is too big for the M6 hole, and for some the washer needs a little ear cut off to account for the transformer leads .
  14. Nice. Looking forward to getting them.