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PolloLoco

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  1. Here's a picture of my finished project. It's been super rewarding. I love the way they look. I had convinced myself that the ESP 6 conversion sounded better than my Koss ESP95X, but after a head to head review - that's definitely not true. Whether closed or open, or with the many different pads I've tried - I've been unable to get meaningful bass out of these. On a different note - I have the nagging feeling that when I went from my jury rigged cables to the removable Kaldas cables, I may have reversed positive and negative wires to each earcup. If so - if the positive wire i
  2. Thank you sir! As usual you're a scholar and a gentleman. I figured that by removing the PCB I divorced the two stators. I just verified it with my voltmeter, they're not connected. Is it possible that one of the stators is grounded, and that that might damage my amp? If so, can I just test by touching each stator with my voltmeter, and checking continuity with the cable? Edit: I just answered my own question. I remembered I had an extra driver, from the first broken pair of Koss ESP6 I had played with. So I busted out my voltmeter to verify that the top and bott
  3. I apologize beforehand if I should have started a new thread, but I figured folks with a Koss ESP950 or Koss ESP95X like me might be curious about the earlier Koss models. If you try this, besides the risk of electrocution, Spritzer has stated before that these weren't designed for pro bias - so I may be slowly killing these Koss ESP6. When I first bought my Koss ESP95X, my desk and work area were better set up for closed headphones, though I loved the clarity and speed of stats. So I became curious if not obsessed with the earlier closed Koss stats. I bid on, but ultimately decided no
  4. Thank you, the ballast resistor was what I was thinking of. I'm terrible at soldering and this would be a fun distraction in lockdown, not an amp I'd really start using. If I added the resistor to the adapter, it would just go on the bias wire, right?
  5. One more Koss question for you if you don't mind. I read a while back that you modded a Koss E90 to run Stax headphones. Even though I don't think its very good, my E90 is sitting around and I was thinking of making a stax to Koss cable adapter for it. Did you have to add resistors or something to the energizer to make it safe for Stax headphones? I know you've expressed concern about Kingsound and Wee energizers.
  6. I bought a pair of Kaldas RR1 cups/drivers/pads from the previous owner about 2 months ago. They squealed, Aumkar had generously replaced the headphones for him - and didn't require shipping back the original bespoke hardware. These were among the first RR1 produced. I've been totally stir crazy due to the lockdown. Though the most I'd played with electrostats was removing rotted foam from a set of lambdas, I figured this might be a fun project to tear down, and if I'm lucky restore. I modded an old Hifiman headband, and bought a cable from Mjolnir audio. I immediately heard the elec
  7. Thanks for clarifying Spritzer. I didn't realize you were referring to the ESP95X vs the original ESP950. I thought you'd performed your own mods when you said they weren't stock.
  8. Spritzer, in the Kaldas thread you mentioned removing damping from your ESP95X. I've removed the foam on the pad side - did you remove any damping on the grill side? If so, did you notice any improvement?
  9. JoaMat, Can you provide more detail about how you disassembled the Conquest to get to that terminal block? And how difficult it was to remove the pads? I'm tempted to pad roll based on your response.
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