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PolloLoco

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  1. Unfortunately - this site limited me to a picture of 17kB for the above. I did take a couple side view pictures showing how the yokes rotate past the Stax stop on the cups. But now my limit is 4.23 kB? I apologize for the potentially stupid question - but can someone explain how I can exceed that limit? Can I only add new pictures by deleting the previous ones I've submitted? I don't know if this is against the rules to even mention, but I'm also going to post the larger pictures on Head Fi's Stax thread.
  2. I finally created yokes for my Stax L700 Mk1's that I'm happy with for sound and comfort. I get a great seal and I can move my head freely without the plastic creaking. It took me several attempts to reduce the clamp - and at first I thought I'd gone too far, but for the last month they've been awesome. They're almost as comfortable as my Koss Esp95X - though they sound better. I'd be happy to share the STL I used to get them printed, but I take no responsibility for you damaging your headphones. I think the only risk is that the existing stax bolts are torqued on very tight, using an
  3. I received my yokes last weekend and they were a successful first test, but I have to revise them. I made them too flimsy. I ordered new ones that are nearly twice as thick and twice as wide, with generous fillets where they won't interfere with the cups. They were printed out of nylon, then vapor polished. That said, the result was extremely comfortable and I get a great seal with the occasional stax fart. Since the stops don't prevent rotation, I could bob my head to the music without the cups squeaking or groaning. That still would happen if the cable pulls on the cups. I'm sh
  4. Thanks for the quick reply. To bypass the stop on the headband and free front to back rotation, I made the top of my yokes round. I'll report back how it works and provide pics if it does.
  5. Do the SOCAS yokes include the roughly 5 degree inward angle of the originals to increase clamp? It's unclear from the ad. The headband angles inward, and the original yokes angle in even further. I recently designed my own version to hopefully get rid of the squeaking every time I move my head. But I'm waiting for them to get printed in nylon and shipped before I can suggest if they work. On mine, I removed the inward angle for now so I'll get less clamp. I'm not sure how much effect that will have. I may put the angle back in a second revision. The SOC
  6. Here's a picture of my finished project. It's been super rewarding. I love the way they look. I had convinced myself that the ESP 6 conversion sounded better than my Koss ESP95X, but after a head to head review - that's definitely not true. Whether closed or open, or with the many different pads I've tried - I've been unable to get meaningful bass out of these. On a different note - I have the nagging feeling that when I went from my jury rigged cables to the removable Kaldas cables, I may have reversed positive and negative wires to each earcup. If so - if the positive wire i
  7. Thank you sir! As usual you're a scholar and a gentleman. I figured that by removing the PCB I divorced the two stators. I just verified it with my voltmeter, they're not connected. Is it possible that one of the stators is grounded, and that that might damage my amp? If so, can I just test by touching each stator with my voltmeter, and checking continuity with the cable? Edit: I just answered my own question. I remembered I had an extra driver, from the first broken pair of Koss ESP6 I had played with. So I busted out my voltmeter to verify that the top and bott
  8. I apologize beforehand if I should have started a new thread, but I figured folks with a Koss ESP950 or Koss ESP95X like me might be curious about the earlier Koss models. If you try this, besides the risk of electrocution, Spritzer has stated before that these weren't designed for pro bias - so I may be slowly killing these Koss ESP6. When I first bought my Koss ESP95X, my desk and work area were better set up for closed headphones, though I loved the clarity and speed of stats. So I became curious if not obsessed with the earlier closed Koss stats. I bid on, but ultimately decided no
  9. Thank you, the ballast resistor was what I was thinking of. I'm terrible at soldering and this would be a fun distraction in lockdown, not an amp I'd really start using. If I added the resistor to the adapter, it would just go on the bias wire, right?
  10. One more Koss question for you if you don't mind. I read a while back that you modded a Koss E90 to run Stax headphones. Even though I don't think its very good, my E90 is sitting around and I was thinking of making a stax to Koss cable adapter for it. Did you have to add resistors or something to the energizer to make it safe for Stax headphones? I know you've expressed concern about Kingsound and Wee energizers.
  11. I bought a pair of Kaldas RR1 cups/drivers/pads from the previous owner about 2 months ago. They squealed, Aumkar had generously replaced the headphones for him - and didn't require shipping back the original bespoke hardware. These were among the first RR1 produced. I've been totally stir crazy due to the lockdown. Though the most I'd played with electrostats was removing rotted foam from a set of lambdas, I figured this might be a fun project to tear down, and if I'm lucky restore. I modded an old Hifiman headband, and bought a cable from Mjolnir audio. I immediately heard the elec
  12. Thanks for clarifying Spritzer. I didn't realize you were referring to the ESP95X vs the original ESP950. I thought you'd performed your own mods when you said they weren't stock.
  13. Spritzer, in the Kaldas thread you mentioned removing damping from your ESP95X. I've removed the foam on the pad side - did you remove any damping on the grill side? If so, did you notice any improvement?
  14. JoaMat, Can you provide more detail about how you disassembled the Conquest to get to that terminal block? And how difficult it was to remove the pads? I'm tempted to pad roll based on your response.
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