HeadphoneAddict
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Posts posted by HeadphoneAddict
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I am curious, is that dial solid platinum or is it somehow textured (media blasted?) or polished? I always imagined platinum to look a bit different than it does there..
11.09gm of solid platinum (about $350 worth), and sandblasted to look like the moon. It's original name was Lunar Dust and they had to change it due to trademark violation..
It's been textured to have a look reminiscent of the surface of the moon. The Grey Side is a great looking watch. Do you have it in hand yet, Larry?
Of course, those were my unboxing photos and on my wrist. Correct on the texture.
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It appears that I have killed the watches thread...
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I'm pretty happy with my iPhone 6+ right now, as well as my original 128gb iPad Air. But the iPad mini 4 is tugging at me a little (I have a 64gb iPad mini original for when I need pocket size). With my 53 year old eyes I prefer the size and speed of the Air. Can't decide if I want to lug around an iPad Pro though, looks too big.
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Happy Birthday!
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Incoming today. I gave up a Rolex Submariner and original model Omega Seamaster 300 to help fund this...
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Happy Birthday!
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I sold my SRD-7 SB Mk2 with normal and pro bias jacks a while back. I liked the self-biasing but didn't sound as good as my AC powered SRD-7 pro for some reason, maybe from additional age or wear?
I also have an SRD-7 SB that audiocats modified to add pro-bias to one of the jacks, as well as a 3rd jack with 5-pin XLR where the output selector used to be (for HE-Audio stats that I had at the time). And he wired the transformers directly to a set of vampire banana jacks on the back, so no speaker pass-through & he says the impedance of the box is quite low as frequencies get closer to DC. This sounds more detailed and efficient than the stock SRD-7 Pro, but presents a challenging load for the amp (unless you add some high power 4 ohm resistors in series which I lost).
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Back on topic, I'd like to hear about other's watches here in regards to their most accurate mechanical watches. It might be interesting to compare best vs worst. (my Seiko SKX173 was losing 20 sec.day, had it adjusted and now it's gaining 20 sec/day, and can't ever seem to be more accurate than that)
I missed my 1980's Submariner 16800 and bought it back 2 weeks ago. In those 14 days it's been slightly faster and slightly slower, but never more than 1.5 seconds up or down from where I set it vs Atomic time. Today it's only +0.8 seconds ahead of where it was 2 weeks ago (+0.06 sec/day avg).
This Sub and my new GMT II BLNR are my two most accurate mechanical watches on the wrist, at less than +0.1 second a day when measured over weeks while on the wrist (my BLNR gained 3.8 seconds in 7 weeks on the wrist). I'm impressed, as these two could be as accurate as a quartz over a 1 year period of time, although if they were to be left untouched in certain positions without variation in position they might gain as much as 1-2 seconds day. But on average it become more impressive.
I put my Rolex GMT II Coke on the winder for the past 23 days and it only gained 7 seconds (+0.3 sec/day). My Explorer II 16570 only gained +1.8 sec/day on the winder during that same time period. But I find that on the wrist my watches tend to be more accurate as they get to be in a wider variety of positions, so that gains and losses average out. Half my Omegas are this accurate (40 year old Moonwatch, 15 year old Seamaster Pro Chronograph) but a few run closer to between +3 and +5 sec/day consistently.
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But we all know that it's hard on the forums to tell when you are being laughed at and when someone is laughing with you. I've been going through a very trying time in my life right now, and everything seems to be getting too serious with me lately. I think I'm going nuts. But, I do come here almost daily for companionship, while I haven't been to the "other" forum in ages, so point taken. Nobody gave me crap at the other site, but here I feel more connected with others.
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think back about who it is that defends you here before you decide to fly off the handle over some minor picking...
I'm over the birth year watch thing, so I just wish you'd let it go too. It's not funny anymore.
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My Woo WEE is the first one made, and I boxed it up 2 years ago and haven't touched it since. Almost had it sold, but they backed out. But I bet the case, knobs, terminals, jacks, and transformers are worth something as parts....
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Jacob, what happens when you tell an administrator other than you to go ... NVM I don't care anymore...
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That is a nice looking watch. If I didn't already have a '76 Speedmaster Moonwatch, an Omega Seamaster Pro chrono with the Valjoux based movement, and Hamilton chrono with the Valjoux based movement I'd be interested. I'm also not exited about any more watches with aging tritium based paint.
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I usually take one Rolex GMT and one beater watch with me when I travel, and that's it. Usually it's been my Explorer II or GMT II Coke, and my Casio Protrek Solar (with altimeter for knowing if I'm over 7,500 feet and at higher risk of pulmonary hemorrhage and edema with my bad lung).
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I've been quite happy with my Drobo 5N NAS with 12TB useable storage, with data protection if one drive goes out. It's quick whether accessing via 802.11ac WiFi on my Macbook Pro 15" or via wired ethernet from the iMac. I have approx 4.5TB iTunes library on it, and the Macbook and iMac run Timemachine backups to it as well, and Plex and Mediatomb seems to run well on it, although I get crashes with Firefly music server if I try to share my whole library.
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Well, that's an altogether different question. Both Birgir and Dr. Gilmore have documented the shortcomings of the eXstatA design - the solid state version measures worse than the Stax SRM-323, and the hybrid version takes 6S4A tubes, which are excellent output devices, and uses them in an intermediate stage, seemingly for no other reason than to say there are tubes in the design. Let me just add that the output "current source" is based on a circuit topology that Walt Jung, a well known solid state engineer, gave as an example of what NOT to use (AudioXpress issue 4, 2007), because it just isn't a very good current source..
On the other hand, Dr. Gilmore posted in the HEV70 query thread in the amplification section of Head-Case on Mrach 7, 2006, that, "I have 2 of them. Never had a problem with either. They sound like crap but that is a different issue." And in his original article on his all triode direct drive tube amp design he said of the HV60/HEV70, "The solid state drive amplifier is horrible. Headphones themselves are excellent."
You might be better off selling the hybrid eXstatA and putting the funds towards a better amp, either a used Stax or one of Dr. Gilmore's designs. If you can buy or build a Stax to Sennheiser cable adapter you can use it to drive your Sennheiser stat phones as well (or, use the SRD-7 pro with a cable adapter for the same purpose).
My HE-60 cable was converted into a 6" pigtail with a Stax 5-pin jack on the end, and the headphone cable has a 5-pin Stax plug on it, so I can use a Stax phone on the HEV70 and the HE-60 on a stax amp. HEV-70 sounds a lot like my old Solid State eXStatA, which I didn't think was as good as the Hybrid while it was working.
The HE-60 sound better with the HEV-70 than they did with any of my previous three SRM-1 Mk2 Pro amps or the Woo WEE (painful). The Eddie Current ZDT 8-watt amp into the SRD-7 Pro is a little better, but the HEV-70 has more micro-detail while the SRD-7 Pro sounds more refined and punchier with better imaging. I guess I'll just install the new amp boards in the eXStatA and sell it, unless I can sell it as a kit and let the buyer install the boards.
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It's really pretty simple. You need to identify which pin(s) in the socket is (are) the bias pin. For the Pro socket, it's just one pin, for the normal bias it's the same pin plus the center pin. If you have a voltmeter, just connect one lead to ground and probe the other pins one at a time. The amp output pins should all be close to zero whereas the bias pin will be a few hundred volts, so there shouldn't be any issue with identifying which is which. Note that the actual value of the voltage doesn't matter, it won't be accurate anyway, but there should be a clear difference between close to 0 volts and a few hundred volts. You can do this test with the box closed for safety.
Note which pin is the bias pin. Then turn off the amp, unplug it,wait for the power supply to discharge, and open the box. You solder a 5.1 megohm/500 volt rated resistor between every pin and its connecting wire EXCEPT for the bias pin - that should be 4 resistors. Actually it won't hurt if you solder a 5.1 megohm resistor to the bias pin since it doesn't carry any current, but it isn't necessary. Just make sure they don't touch each other - if you want to put some heat shrink around them so the connections aren't exposed that's fine. That's it.
Okay, that does make it sound easier. But is it worth it to resurrect the eXStatA hybrid amp if I still have an HEV-70 pro bias amp, a Stax SRD-7 Pro, and a Stax SRD-7SB to drive all my staxen (SR-5NB Gold Ed, SR-Lambda, SR-LNS, and Baby Orpheus)? I'm not counting the Woo WEE that's for sale, which I only like with the LNS (or 007 before I sold them).
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That looks more fun. How nerdy am I?
You put yourself into Tyll's head for a sec is all...
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Probably the easiest way is to add the 5.1 megohm resistors (needs to be rated for 500 volts) at the headphone socket, between the socket and the wires going to the socket from the amp board.
I wouldn't know which wire to choose for adding the resistor. I'm really ignorant about this stuff. I can solder wires for a TRS headphone jack or to a pair of speaker leads on the back of a speaker driver, and that's it.
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Through the skin, fascia, and muscle = to the bone laceration
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just add the 4 resistors, if you gave stuffed boards you want to transplant you'd have to open things up anyway right
I can stitch you up with a three layers deep laceration, but I have no clue how to add resistors to an amp.
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You did a great job.
When my '83 Rolex Submariner was serviced in 2012 I didn't have any casework done, as I didn't want to end up with an over-polish or other issue, because my watchmaker was still new to me (he'd only done clocks for us before). I didn't get to know him better until 2013 when I had him do my Seamaster Planet Ocean 2500, and 2014 when he did my 1976 Moonwatch and Omega Great White. Now I feel comfortable with him doing the case, but I want to wait until I have the next service.
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So, does anyone with the skills to make this eXStatA safe to phone and human want to make an offer on taking the amp and new stuffed boards, at a low price or some kind of trade? It's just going to waste space here. If I recall it has one pro and one normal bias teflon jack, a separate volume control for each channel, with XLR and RCA inputs.
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I have a Seiko SKA371. It's my "camping, outdoors, shooting" watch. Nice enough watch, and certainly very well made.
I'm kinda tempted to get the Seiko SARB033, at that price, but I'm going to hold off.
Do you think I would enjoy the SKA371 more than my 3 year old Seiko automatic SKX173 that gains 10-20 seconds a day? These days if I want something more accurate as a beater, then I wear my Victorinox Divemaster 500 automatic or quartz, or one of my Luminox watches, so I didn't pounce on the SKA371 kinetic. But I think it's pretty attractive.
Well, I also didn't pounce because I bought that Seiko Astron GPS Solar watch. But now I'm thinking I may give it to Ben for graduation as a surprise. I haven't even sized it yet, because he really wants the Ti Limited Ed version with white dial.
I could return the black one for the Ti one though.
Watches
in Miscellaneous
Posted
Not specifically for the GSOTM, but it's possible the bracelet from the Speedmaster 9300 might fit?