Jump to content

swt61

High Rollers
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    21,178

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    310

 Content Type 

Posts posted by swt61

  1. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    sweet! math does work once in a while. Then, just give me the voltage for the 45rpm setting, when the voltage is as close to the correct speed as you can get it and I'll calculate the new DIP settings.

    edit: just for the hell of it, invert the DIP switches for the 33rpm setting and see if there is finer adjustment... I realized that for the 33rpm, both settings will "work" but one will give you better fine control. If the second setting gives you more control, then invert the settings for 45rpm and this may fix your issue... or either way invert for 45rpm and see what happens :)

    I'm on my way to dinner, but will try inverting them when I get back.

  2. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    ok, so can you give me the new voltages for 33 and 45, just like you did in the very, very first step? It will just take a sec.

    Also, you have a massive package in the mail. When changing the resistors on the Pearl, I'd recommend taking one side off, then changing one channel, putting that side back on, and then removing the other side to access the other channel. It will make more sense when you see where the adjustment resistors are.

    With one lead removed from X3 I'm now measuring 5.21 V for 45 RPM and 4.55 V for 33 RPM.

    I'm sure that removing one side at a time for the Pearl will be easier to deal with anyway.

  5. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    right, so when you do that part of the setup procedure, the motor won't be running, but the circuit will be trying to run it. that's fine.

    and on the latter, no it's not that important really, but know if things don't get dialed in 100% with this setup procedure, you can revert back to the working state by moving the jumper over.

    OK I got the VR1 dialed in at the 5.75 V I had measured for V1.

    The speeds changed for sure. I'm still able to dial in 33 RPM with some adjustment left at the knob. 45 RPM won't quite get dialed in at this setting though. However knowing that I can revert back to moving the jumper if needed, I'm going to leave it as is. I'll be playing 33 RPM records 99.99 percent of the time.

    That was fun BTW! Am I an official begginer DIYer now?

  6. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    after the above is completed, here are the next steps. With the motor off, examine JP2, it's near the 6 black capacitors on the right. Place the jumper so it's connected to pins 1-2 (so, in the right hand position). Then place the meter in the ohms position and measure resistance across the motor terminals (X3). This is done just like you measured the voltage above, but with the motor off and the meter on the ohms setting. Let's call this resistance R1. I got around 70 ohms for my setup.

    With the meter in the Ohms position at the 200 mark I got a reading of 65.6 Ohms.

    Then, carefully disconnect one of the motor leads and make sure it doesn't touch anything and then switch the controller on and place it in the 45rpm mode and let the platter get up to speed (a few minutes is good). Then measure the voltage (remember to switch your meter to the voltage setting) yet again at X3 (this time with one lead of the motor disconnected). Hopefully, this will be above 5V, if not let me know (and double check that you're on the 45rpm setting). Let's call this voltage V1. Turn the controller off.

    I guess I'm not understanding you correctly here, because if I remove one of the motor leads at terminal X3 I don't have any power to run the platter at 45 RPM. What am I missing here?

    Oh and BTW My jumper at JP2 was already connected to pins 1-2 (in the right hand position). Not sure if this significant.

  7. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    First, center the 2 front knobs so they are in the middle of their adjustment range. Kinda like setting a balance on a old receiver so the left and right channel are the same. If you have a indicator on your knobs, I'd rotate the knob so it's in the "up position" at this point. . The following values are read left to right when looking at the front of the controller, where 1 is when the actuator is moved towards the "ON" label of the switch. If you choose the left bank of switches to be 33rpm, then this will correspond to 33rpm when the switch on the front is in the left position.

    So, I get:

    33rpm 10011001

    45prm 00110110

    this will hopefully dial it in where the knob is in the center and things are pretty close then you can fine tune the exact speed using the knob. If for some reason things just arn't working, then try inverting the 1's and 0's (i.e. move each switch to the other position) as your switches might have been installed backwards.

    Also, I'm going to send you all the banding for the toroids from the group buy. If anyone needs any, please contact swt61.

    OK, These switch settings work beautifully. I can dial the 33 & 45 RPMs in perfectly, and still have plenty of adjustment room at the knobs.

  8. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    sure. I need you to do 2 measurements for me. First, put your meter in DC volts mode. If you get one of those cheap Centex red ones from Harbor Freight, like this:

    Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

    then place the knob in the position that points to "20 DCV" and the black probe in the "Common" location and the red probe in the VOmA location in the lower right hand corner.

    Then place the probes across the motor terminals inside the case. Just follow the wires going from the socket to the PC board and measure at the terminal block. I believe it's marked X3. It doesn't really matter which probe goes where, as we just need an absolute reading. Be careful not to slip and short things out, in other words, don't let the probes touch each other when you're measuring. This measurement needs to be done with the table running for a minute or two so the speed is able to stabilize. Repeat the same measurement for the 45rpm setting.

    Just to give you an idea, mine measured around 7.5V for 45rpm and 6.0V for 33rpm.

    OK, 33 rpm measures 4.96 and 45 rpm measures 6.49.

    I hope that tells you something meaningful, because it sure doesn't mean much to me. :P

  9. Koss ESP/950 electrostat thread

    in Headphones

    Posted

    The Koss may look like a cheap piece of shit but its build quality is good enough and far superior to the He60 where it actually counts, i.e. driver coupling and how the drivers are constructed. Both are far from perfect though...

    But you pay what you'd expect for the Koss. IMHO the Koss is a big bargain, and a very under rated stat, especially when coupled w/a great amp and running at the Gilmore recommended voltage.

    I also find the Koss quite comfy, and build quality is not bad.

  15. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    sure. I need you to do 2 measurements for me. First, put your meter in DC volts mode. If you get one of those cheap Centex red ones from Harbor Freight, like this:

    Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

    then place the knob in the position that points to "20 DCV" and the black probe in the "Common" location and the red probe in the VOmA location in the lower right hand corner.

    Then place the probes across the motor terminals inside the case. Just follow the wires going from the socket to the PC board and measure at the terminal block. I believe it's marked X3. It doesn't really matter which probe goes where, as we just need an absolute reading. Be careful not to slip and short things out, in other words, don't let the probes touch each other when you're measuring. This measurement needs to be done with the table running for a minute or two so the speed is able to stabilize. Repeat the same measurement for the 45rpm setting.

    Just to give you an idea, mine measured around 7.5V for 45rpm and 6.0V for 33rpm.

    OK, I have to go into Corpus and pick one up first.

  16. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    That sounds great.

    I'll need better instructions on tweaking the speed controller with the piece you gave me as well.

    My strobe and strobe disc came in yesterday, and both 33 & 45 RPM are a little past the the settings we have now. They're not far off though.

    I've inquired about a custom dust cover too. We'll see what they have to say.

    I actually missed the fidgetyness (is that a word?) of a vinyl rig. It suits my personality.

  17. Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    Steve:

    One thing to realize is that you will have to alter the loading once you put the step-up in line. The Consonance seems to have 20dB and 17dB taps, which refer to the amount of gain you can get. Assuming you want to stick to around 100 ohms loading and want to use the 20dB (i.e. the higher gain) taps, then by my calculations you will need a pair of 12.7k resistors. I'll order them this week for you. If you want 150 ohm loading, then you'll need a pair of 22k resistors, ironically the exact same value I purchased for your other cartridge, so I'll have these on hand as well for you.

    :)

    Cool, 100 Ohms loading will be great. This is something I can most likely do, once you map out the right location for me?

  19. Custom Turntable Build

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    Well with a big thanks to luvdunhill (again), we got her up and running at Saturdays Houston meet.

    Marc brought about 10-15 Lbs. of lead shot which I used every ounce of. He got the new cartridge mounted, and schooled me on some of the finer points of tweakage. We got her sounding pretty darn good. Considering the limited time factor, wobbly table and such, I was very impressed. Beginners luck for sure, because I've never built a plinth before, but good advice goes a long way.

    We didn't have a lot of gain for sure, but I bought a step up transformer last night, and it should be here in a few days. We did get a very quiet background even with the β22 cranked to max volume.

    Marc the table does have noticeably better low end set up here in my system. I'm guessing it's the solid 3" Maple slab under it. It's dead level now too, which wasn't easy to get on that folding table.

    I'll report back after the Consonance PM-3 step up arrives. I'm quite pleased with the Zu DL 103 though.

    Here's Marc getting ready to settle in for first listen.

    Img0330.jpg

  25. Custom Turntable Build

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    Steve:

    does the tape ride up and down like it did with the proto plinth you had at my place? Also, it would probably be worthwhile letting the thing "break in" and discharging the battery once and letting it recharge before the weekend.

    Oh yeah, and it looks great :)

    It's dead accurate, no travel at all. I think the problem before was the hand drilled hole in the makeshift plinth for the bearing. The platter is smooth as silk and the motor pulley is spinning perfectly. The only wobble whatsoever is when the tape splice hits the pulley, but even that is minimal.

    I'm running the battery down now.

    n_maher-albums-smileys-picture134-thholysheep.gif + n_maher-albums-smileys-picture127-icon-pray.gif

    Thanks guys! Nate it'd be fun to team up on a project one day and combine our different skills. I'm constantly amazed by Yourself, Naaman, Vortex and AMB.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.

  I accept