kevin gilmore

Somehow in the many versions of the boards, the dual fet ended up upside down. Absolutely no idea how that happened. The board works fine and i've been listening to it for months now. When i pushed components around to shrink the side mount board, i may have made a mistake, or re-routed something to the wrong place so its a better idea for someone to check against the schematic. After working on all the boards for so long, i can easily miss a mistake that would be obvious to anyone that just looked at it for 15 minutes. I must have spent 100 hours on the attenuator board. I'm glad that one came out perfect because with 6 layers, a mistake in the middle is not repairable. When i go to bed at night and close my eyes, if i still see the board layout, its time to give it a break for a week or two. The blue polution really is a problem.

Thats an older schematic with the stacked 600 volt parts. here is the current one. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvproduction.pdf lsk389 are current production parts. 2sa1968's may be a bit of trouble, you can use the ixys parts instead.

No way i have enough time to make that many more stax jacks. Here is the design http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxout3.pdf Should be about $7 when made in quantity in china. original kgsshv amp board with on board heatsinks known to work perfectly with single fets, and upside down dual fet, new version should be checked for errors. someone needs to check the side mount kgsshv amp board for errors just in case i messed something up when i pushed stuff around. someone needs to check the power supply board against the schematic to make sure i did not make any mistakes there either. prototype run for kgsshv power supply not a bad idea. prototype run for dynahi/dynafet power supply also not a bad idea.

1) Welcome to head-case 2) This is the DIY section. That means you build it yourself. If you try and get someone to build it for you, it will look like many of the exstata disasters over there. 3) go and look up -=germania=- over there.

ouch

yep, thats the part. its on the dynahipower2 board. Absolutely dead quiet in terms of any kind of noise. Switches internally at 500khz. At 1.5 amps of output current, it should be enough to run just about anything you would need to control relays etc. Won't run an I5 at 3ghz

You should be able to boost the thing to do 600 volts. Primary and secondary caps in series are good for at least 800 volts but 900 volts unreg is possible if you make sure the transformer has a center tap to avoid imbalances in the main caps (something mikhail never understood/or choose to ignore) The ixys current sources are rated to 900 volts. you can use the c4686a's to replace the 600 volt npn's, they are good to over 1kv you would have to replace the pnp's with 2sa1968's which are good to 900 volts there is a version of the pass fet rated at 900 volts, in fact there are ixys parts rated at over 1200v (not cheap)

Then you have to use the angle brackets and build it T2 style. But then you can't get it all in one standard box. I'm open to suggestions.

the center holes of the transistors are .875 from the top of the extrusion. This allows for .5 inch for the bracket, then .125 inch of space between the bracket and the edge of the transistor. Some people insist that heat travels up. Which it does a bit, but not as much as you might think. So what you should probably do is mount the amp boards upside down, and then the power transistors are .875 from the bottom of the heatsink. To make it fit into the 3.8 inch space between the 2 brackets, the input had to be moved to the side. So its no longer an exact mirror image for the inputs although the outputs are mirrored.

I don't think i have a current layout for the dynafet board, will have to look. just the balanced dynafet board. so a kgsshv set is 2 amp boards (there are 2 different kinds) and a power supply board if you pick the side mount boards, then this should fit in the 3U hifi2000 chassis a dynahi set would be 2 amp boards and one power supply board subject to the size of the caps, this should fit in a 2U hifi2000 chassis a balanced dynahi set would be 2 balanced boards and 2 power suply boards this is going to need 2 chassis a balanced dynafet set would be 2 balanced boards and 2 power supply boards this is also going to need 2 chassis i'm open to other ideas It would be VERY NICE if everyone calls up Linear Systems and bugs the crap out of them for lsj109's, or even the singles versions. If enough people do it, they might actually sell them.

You can always do the amp boards with the on board heatsinks. I'm just not willing to do another 700+ lbs of custom aluminum extrusions. I'm looking for a better solution, like a chassis manufacturer that will drill and tap the heatsinks. Similar to what front panel express does. Except for the blind tapping part, anyone that does a careful layout by printing a 1:1 hole map taping it to the heatsink and then center punching it should be ok, as the parts have plenty of mounting room. I would drill thru a total of .125 inch extra, which makes using regular taps work well. Assuming the base of the heatsink is .250 thick, you really want to drill and tap more than .125 anyway.

4D is a 3.3 volt system, but is also 5 volt pullup tolerant. the murata 3.3 volt regulator is a single piece 12v or 5v to 3.3v converter for $4.

duplicate post

The 3.3V on the attenuator board is either 3.3V or 5V to match the different cpu drive voltages. In most cases you can use 5V and still drive it with a 3.3V cpu.

i'm in for 2 complete sets of everything.

side mount amp board for the 3U pesante case http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvampv7s.jpg

moved mounting holes .05 everything should fit now.

ujamerstand says that the amp board won't fit in the 3U pessante case so i shortened the board to 3.9 vertical inches. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvampv7s.zip someone needs to check this. anyone with the real case to measure between the bracket mounting rails?

This is about as bulletproof as i can make it. With the current limit on the power supply you should be able to do all sorts of evil things to it without blowing up any parts.

fixed duplicates on the schematic. also a few other things that got to the board and were not on the schematic. pathetic parts list here. QTY PART-REFS VALUE --- --------- ----- Resistors --------- 4 R1,R9,R21,R22 300k 4 R2,R3,R13,R14 15/3W 2 R4,R17 50k 4 R5,R15,R29,R30 440k 2 R6,R16 20k 4 R7,R10,R18,R20 240k /3W 2 R8,R19 650 4 R11,R12,R23,R24 500k 2 R25,R26 2K 1 R27 787k high voltage resistor subject to adjustment depending on transformer 1 R28 15k high voltage resistor subject to adjustment depending on transformer 1 R39 3000 2 R40,R42 100k 1 R43 5M Capacitors ---------- 4 C1,C4,C5,C9 680uF 6 C2,C3,C6,C8,C12,C14 100uF 2 C7,C17,C19,C21 .1uf /1000v 2 C10,C15 .22uf /1000v mouser 5989-1KV0.22-F 2 C11,C13 4700uF 2 C16,C18 1000pf /1000v Integrated Circuits ------------------- 1 U3 7815 1 U4 7915 Transistors ----------- 4 Q1,Q2,Q11,Q12 fqpf8n80c 4 Q3,Q4,Q15,Q16 2sc3840 6 Q5-Q7,Q17-Q19 2sa1486 2 Q8,Q20,Q2 10m90s 4 Q9,Q10,Q13,Q14 2n3904 Diodes ------ 2 D1,D6 24V zener 6 D2,D10,D12,D13, 1n4007 D21,D22 4 D3,D4,D7,D8 200V zener 2 D5,D9 100V zener 3 D17,D18,D20 150v zener 1 D19 130v zener Miscellaneous ------------- 3 BR1-BR3 BRIDGE which is actually 8 individual diodes and one bridge 2 REF,REF2 lt1021-10 high voltage resistors are mouser hvr3700007153fr500 http://www.vishay.com/docs/30260/hvr25.pdf ALL HEATSINKS ARE GROUNDED. The ixys parts must be mounted on the ceramic insulators and secured with a non-conductive screw. Others that have built the previous version had this problem, then lots of parts blow up. You can trim this power supply for minimum heat. For the 450 volt version, the zener string should be 500 volts and the unreg can be as low as 550 volts. Then it will work at 10% low line. If you want something that works 15% low line, bump the unreg to 600 volts. Since its a crap shoot on getting transformer manufacturers to actually meet specs you give them, its up to you to pick the appropriate unreg high voltage AC. But something like 420 vac under load works. You can easily change a few parts and go to 500 volt outputs. Bump the zener string to 550 volts, and unreg to 600 volts. at which point you don't need the voltage multiplier and can jumper around it for the bias.

many thanks to kerry on this. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvps8e.pdf http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvps8e.jpg

Updated power supply board. Can run on less unregulated voltage, and has a multiplier for the bias. Parts reduced a bit, and a easy way to build it as a dual zener supply only. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvps8e.zip

birgir's unit up and running. Evidently he has a noisy pot in one of the batteries, same as the problem andy had. Must be a large batch of bad trimpots.

all nighters and high voltage are a bad idea.

There is at least 2 different kinds of the input tube sockets. On the ones i used, the center pin had no bushing, and fit thru the board completely just fine. You put the 8 pin sockets in as far as they can go. On the 9 pin sockets you align them so that they barely fit thru the circuit board. Then the top of the octals and the 9 pins are close to the same height.