Everything posted by kevin gilmore
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
So i finally had a few minutes to test the prp resistors last night and while you can put 350 volts across them, and they are stable, If you put them very close to the ground plane, they leak current thru the covering on the film. So the prp's probably work if you lift them off the board say .125 inch. But really there is nothing wrong with the xicon's.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
You are not using it enough. Should be 6 or 7 times a week.
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Post the last thing you bought!
yep the voltmeter has gpib. unfortunately i don't have a pci express gpib board. (i'm not even sure that those things actually exist) Illegal uplinking to sattelites seems to be frowned upon these days. And dedicated microwave links seem to require a FCC permit. I would love a gigabit microwave link between my house and NWU. (without having to pay for the bandwidth)
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Post the last thing you bought!
so monday on the way home, this guy who i had bought those monster capacitors from was having another garage sale, and my eyes are keen on tektronix blue. So i bought these two pieces. $50 each As far as i can tell, brand new, never used with all the original stuff, including probes still in original packaging, original manual and warranty cards. http://gilmore.chem....du/dsc_2303.jpg I think i did pretty good. He had a bunch of microwave stuff too, not sure what i would do with all that stuff except cause trouble.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
usa only... http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ixys/IXCP10M90S/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuNY54QelN3z%2fGpmPBImucviXo%2flzMMtuQ%3d http://ixdev.ixys.com/DataSheet/98729.pdf
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i'm on a roll... the kgsshv
They are electrically isolated. But you still need some kind of thermal interface. So either the thermasil silicone impregnated things, or some thermal paste. Same thing with the 2sc4686a output transistors, and the 2sa1968ls current sources. the ixtp01n100d are NOT isolated, so they need the aluminum oxide washers.
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KG Balanced Dynahi build discussion thread
notice to people doing the dynahi power supply boards. If you are using the lm4040, make sure you buy the 10 volt versions. Otherwise you end up with the biggest +/-15 volt around lt1021 definitely a better part, and not a lot more money if you buy from digikey.
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i'm on a roll... the kgsshv
I can't even tell you how pissed i'm getting at all the fake parts. And i've been recently bit by $200 in fake parts myself. None of the distributors stand by them either. Dalbani seems to be the worst of the bunch, complete thiefs.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
Actually there is one spare pin in each of the power supply connectors. So there is room for the +5 volts. And the 12 volts for the attenuator can share one of the existing 12 volt power supply wires that go to the servo. Or add another connector to power the attenuator. Its a work in progress, need to find a space for the cpu.
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KG Balanced Dynahi build discussion thread
silkscreen error on the dynahi power supply board. The resistor labeled as 40k for dual tracking should be 20k. schematic is correct.
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Crafting Thread -- Ask Questions About Casework and Whatnot Here ...
The cell disruptor is not a joke. I have a 600 watt one. Nasty device. Reminds me of the dentist. In the future don't tap holes by hand without a jig that holds the tap absolutely straight. Then they don't crack off.
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Crafting Thread -- Ask Questions About Casework and Whatnot Here ...
Without a precision mill, and some carbide bits, this is next to impossible. Taps are very hard and very brittle. If you have access to an ultrasonic cell disruptor, those have been known to loosen broken tap bits.
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i'm on a roll... the kgsshv
new version of board should be idiot proof for next time.
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i'm on a roll... the kgsshv
actually the + mark is the mark for the capacitor since once you stuff it, the + mark under the cap is now hidden. the plus mark on the diode bridge is towards the edge of the board, where the angle mark is. I will move the + mark for the cap. and add a + mark for the diode bridge.
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Modifying Tube Socket Brackets
mikhail had a version that looked just like that, and did in fact fit the teflon sockets, and it was threaded. So go looking for some russian junk and you should be able to find them. Or spotweld the nuts onto the frame. Or use female threaded inserts of the right size, a star washer and a brass washer and solder to hold things in place. edit: i tried some pems nuts and they work great if you have the right size, and something to use as a bench press to put them in straight.
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The DIY Electrostatic amp thread
Actually because the load is not a constant impedance with frequency the term SRPP does not apply anyway. It degenerates into a simple current source. And solid state seems to be a much better idea for this.
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The DIY Electrostatic amp thread
If you do SRPP you end up in the same troubles as the ray samuels A10. Same sort of thing as mikhail's original disaster. Voltage swing on the top tube is rail to rail. Which means that unless you want 4 seperate filament supplies for each of the top tubes you quickly exceed the cathode to filament voltage specifications. Which in additon means seperate tubes for the outputs. 8 in all. Gets big and complicated in a hurry.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
could be relabeled 2sa1413 which are 400 volt parts.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
This is strictly the obvious fake test. If a k216 tests at 130 volts you know you are going to be in trouble. When a 2sa1968ls tests at 180 volts, you know you are in trouble. You need a real curve tracer to do real tests. So far all the fakes are so obvious, there is no reason to get to step 2.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
How much were they at 3000 each? But if its another fuckjob like DALBANI who refuses to stand behind their product, probably not interested. Speaking of which, birgir now has verfied fake K216's also from DALBANI. Here is how to test the fets For the K216 Make an adapter that ties the gate pin to the source pin which goes to the emitter pin in the socket, and the drain goes to the collector. Then test as a NPN. The real ones test at 230 volts, The fakes test much less.
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digital attenuator
I could probably do that. When i don't know.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
Don't forget to order this tool. Its absolutely required. http://www.amazon.com/Who-Doctor-Sonic-Screwdriver-Replica/dp/B003FHXMDC
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The DIY Electrostatic amp thread
10m90s on a heatsink is WAY better than any resistor. Good for 900 volts. Other versions good for more than 1kv. If a tube ever shorts, nothing bad happens. If you use the resistor plate load and a tube shorts, fireworks. Anything more than about 20 ma will push the output tubes too hard. blubliss has a gilmore schematic fully modified singlepower with the ixys parts you can ask him how much better it sounds than the original.
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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
i have a solution for that
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The DIY Electrostatic amp thread
The purpose of the cross coupled thing is to increase gain. This is not an easy thing to do. You need at least 70 db of open loop gain, and that has to be at 20khz. Mikhail's versions without modifications suffered greatly from this which is why there were severe channel to channel imbalances.