kevin gilmore

storm took out my power for a couple of days, so probably won't be able to respond till power is returned.

If some is good, MOAR must be better.

this is the wire http://www.interstatewire.com/Products/MIL-W-22759-43.aspx

The wire i used is actually labeled. At least some of the colors were labeled. If its actually teflon, and nothing else is as slippery and hard to strip as teflon, then if its the right gauge, its likely to be 600V. The much higher voltage stuff is definitely available, but seems to be only available in red.

The ratings on the 600V wire is 600V AC. Which just barely works at max voltage swing. At least the teflon stuff i use is rated that way.

blubliss has the new power supply board with the silkscreen fixed. The one diode in wrong was in the minus supply anyway.

I'm thinking that this is probably pretty close. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/bybeething.pdf

Actually unlike the quantum purifiers which do jack shit, this thing actually does something. And that something could be very bad. Notice the .5 to 2.1 volts of input to output differential. If you put these things on a dynahi, dynafet, or B22 you will absolutely kill the effect of the dual tracking power supply, deliberately offset the rails, and probably force the servo to clip in one or the other direction. Now do i believe the 45db of noise reduction... Nope, in testing a few of the possible circuits, maybe 10db at most, and only when you put such a device between the unregulated voltages and the rest of everything else. At which point with a well regulated power supply you can't tell the difference between the thing in and out of circuit. But wait there is more. Lets say you are dumb enough to put this on say a kgsshv power supply, or something (anything) else that is 450 Volts. Do a quick calculation. The R1+R2 load resistor eat up 7 watts (which would be 14 watts total for a dual supply) plus the power in the zeners, say 18 watts total. 33% more power all going directly into heat including the extra power the supply has to generate to light the thing up. In fact a number of tube preamps and small tube otl amplifiers with tube diode power supplys, are unlikely to be able to supply the additional power to light this stupid thing up. Yep, another quality product from jack bybee. But i notice a new difference too, bybeelabs.com and bybeetech.com Each selling different products. I wonder what that is all about.

The ferrites remove high frequency trash, and may keep the output opamps from oscillating under some conditions. If you are going to replace the entire output section, then you can remove them, but they are there to limit stuff over 100khz.

RK50's and the P&G units are the best analog pots available. RK50 can be put on a circuit board, the P&G have to be hand wired.

But a RK50 is not flat to 1GHZ

The arlon boards are about $150 each in 6 layers The relays are $25 each You can spend silly amounts of money on the resistors. So say $1000 per balanced channel is not out of the question. This is certainly going to slow down most people.

Speaking of silly, omron just released a new relay compatible with the step attenuator. VSWR of 1.1 at 1GHZ. So we could up the frequency response of the step attenuator from 400mhz to 1GHZ...

Can do a run of teflon or arlon boards. Then gold plate everything. You won't like the price.

power supply is 9 x 7.5 inches, heatsinks along the long side. amp with on board heatsinks is 8.25 x 6.25 inches amp for side mounting is 7.2 x 3.9 inches

The amount of bullshit Bybee can produce makes Ray look like a 2 year old. Sales of quantum purifiers must be slipping. My guess based on the wiring diagram and the extra parts for higher voltages is that the thing is a power fet of opposite polarity plus a couple of diodes and small capacitors. Similar to the noise reducing capacitance multipliers used in the Melos units. So for positive voltages, a p-channel fet, for negative voltages a n-channel fet. Price not specified. Bet they are $200 to $300 each. Pathetic.

dynahipower2 is going to be the supply for the preamp, trimmed to +/-24V. BIG PROBLEM, no 4PDT relays anymore. Going to have to change that board quite a bit.

Something like this should take care of the inrush current. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EPCOS/B57153S100M/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv9eKVyXEc%252bhAZUpToxTU3SjSna2OgFPkw%3d This is a 2 amp device, probably the 1 amp device works to, put in series with the primary of the transformer. (110vac) all transistor mounting holes are the same as the T2, which is .5 inch between holes.

Everything past the unregulated caps is current limited, so that should take care of all problems.

There seem to be a number of problems with the 3D printing of the stax jacks. Shrinkage when fired, roundness of the holes, sizes accuracys... It might take a few tries to get this right. Not that machining teflon is that easy either, but at least the holes are the right size and in the right place.

Stay away from anything black, as that is going to conduct high voltage. I would like to see the price in ceramic of my exact stax jack, this might be a great way to do this.

I can't imagine that 3D printing is going to be very cheap, but would like to see prices. White nylon probably works ok. ABS, probably can't handle the voltage. I would love a couple of macor ceramic sockets. Those would probably end up $150 to $200 each.

I'm sure the first version only took about 4 hours. But there were 19 different versions. 2 layer, 4 layer, 6 layer all parts on one side, parts on both sides... (REALLY, 19 different versions i have them all) I did not keep track of the time, but i may have more hours in the attenuator board than the T2 board set. Wait a minute... Isn't this the same guy that says his gerber files cost tens of thousands of dollars to produce? Or did things suddenly get cheaper.

Somehow in the many versions of the boards, the dual fet ended up upside down. Absolutely no idea how that happened. The board works fine and i've been listening to it for months now. When i pushed components around to shrink the side mount board, i may have made a mistake, or re-routed something to the wrong place so its a better idea for someone to check against the schematic. After working on all the boards for so long, i can easily miss a mistake that would be obvious to anyone that just looked at it for 15 minutes. I must have spent 100 hours on the attenuator board. I'm glad that one came out perfect because with 6 layers, a mistake in the middle is not repairable. When i go to bed at night and close my eyes, if i still see the board layout, its time to give it a break for a week or two. The blue polution really is a problem.

Thats an older schematic with the stacked 600 volt parts. here is the current one. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvproduction.pdf lsk389 are current production parts. 2sa1968's may be a bit of trouble, you can use the ixys parts instead.