kevin gilmore

Found this brand new in the box, never used. Batteries in a seperate bag, and immediately dumped in the used chemicals pile. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/simpson260.jpg I have no idea how old it is, i figure late 1960's

not sure where the 5pf at 200 volts came from, but that is clearly wrong. needs to be 1kv cap.

Back when oscilliscopes were actually really oscilliscopes, i saw people lift the ground, put them in series with a high voltage isolation transformer, chunks of plexiglass under the scope et all. At zenith this was standard practice when working on the high voltage sections. Complete with plastic knob extenders. These days, oscilliscopes are nothing but highly computerized digital things, and would likely completely blow up with any number of simple mistakes. Isolation circuits can be built that safely do this kind of thing. But i really don't want to show people how to do this. I don't want to be responsible for any dead bodies. I have already been present when it has happened. TWICE. Seriously.

Resistors are uncrossed Dact hole spacing is now .1 Resistor labels fixed Craig sawyers cap additions, and resistors moved.

Maximum thickness with the 2sa1486 and ceramic washer is 12.35 mm, So 12mm is just a little bit too small. If you add a .1mm washer its even worse.

Done

So i got some of the peek screws from andy, and tested them. People... These are what you want. Unbelieveably strong and virtually unstripable.

Its the coffee that andy drinks that allows him to do this. Seriously

storm took out my power for a couple of days, so probably won't be able to respond till power is returned.

If some is good, MOAR must be better.

this is the wire http://www.interstatewire.com/Products/MIL-W-22759-43.aspx

The wire i used is actually labeled. At least some of the colors were labeled. If its actually teflon, and nothing else is as slippery and hard to strip as teflon, then if its the right gauge, its likely to be 600V. The much higher voltage stuff is definitely available, but seems to be only available in red.

The ratings on the 600V wire is 600V AC. Which just barely works at max voltage swing. At least the teflon stuff i use is rated that way.

blubliss has the new power supply board with the silkscreen fixed. The one diode in wrong was in the minus supply anyway.

I'm thinking that this is probably pretty close. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/bybeething.pdf

Actually unlike the quantum purifiers which do jack shit, this thing actually does something. And that something could be very bad. Notice the .5 to 2.1 volts of input to output differential. If you put these things on a dynahi, dynafet, or B22 you will absolutely kill the effect of the dual tracking power supply, deliberately offset the rails, and probably force the servo to clip in one or the other direction. Now do i believe the 45db of noise reduction... Nope, in testing a few of the possible circuits, maybe 10db at most, and only when you put such a device between the unregulated voltages and the rest of everything else. At which point with a well regulated power supply you can't tell the difference between the thing in and out of circuit. But wait there is more. Lets say you are dumb enough to put this on say a kgsshv power supply, or something (anything) else that is 450 Volts. Do a quick calculation. The R1+R2 load resistor eat up 7 watts (which would be 14 watts total for a dual supply) plus the power in the zeners, say 18 watts total. 33% more power all going directly into heat including the extra power the supply has to generate to light the thing up. In fact a number of tube preamps and small tube otl amplifiers with tube diode power supplys, are unlikely to be able to supply the additional power to light this stupid thing up. Yep, another quality product from jack bybee. But i notice a new difference too, bybeelabs.com and bybeetech.com Each selling different products. I wonder what that is all about.

The ferrites remove high frequency trash, and may keep the output opamps from oscillating under some conditions. If you are going to replace the entire output section, then you can remove them, but they are there to limit stuff over 100khz.

RK50's and the P&G units are the best analog pots available. RK50 can be put on a circuit board, the P&G have to be hand wired.

But a RK50 is not flat to 1GHZ

The arlon boards are about $150 each in 6 layers The relays are $25 each You can spend silly amounts of money on the resistors. So say $1000 per balanced channel is not out of the question. This is certainly going to slow down most people.

Speaking of silly, omron just released a new relay compatible with the step attenuator. VSWR of 1.1 at 1GHZ. So we could up the frequency response of the step attenuator from 400mhz to 1GHZ...

Can do a run of teflon or arlon boards. Then gold plate everything. You won't like the price.

power supply is 9 x 7.5 inches, heatsinks along the long side. amp with on board heatsinks is 8.25 x 6.25 inches amp for side mounting is 7.2 x 3.9 inches

The amount of bullshit Bybee can produce makes Ray look like a 2 year old. Sales of quantum purifiers must be slipping. My guess based on the wiring diagram and the extra parts for higher voltages is that the thing is a power fet of opposite polarity plus a couple of diodes and small capacitors. Similar to the noise reducing capacitance multipliers used in the Melos units. So for positive voltages, a p-channel fet, for negative voltages a n-channel fet. Price not specified. Bet they are $200 to $300 each. Pathetic.

dynahipower2 is going to be the supply for the preamp, trimmed to +/-24V. BIG PROBLEM, no 4PDT relays anymore. Going to have to change that board quite a bit.