kevin gilmore

Actually unlike the quantum purifiers which do jack shit, this thing actually does something. And that something could be very bad. Notice the .5 to 2.1 volts of input to output differential. If you put these things on a dynahi, dynafet, or B22 you will absolutely kill the effect of the dual tracking power supply, deliberately offset the rails, and probably force the servo to clip in one or the other direction. Now do i believe the 45db of noise reduction... Nope, in testing a few of the possible circuits, maybe 10db at most, and only when you put such a device between the unregulated voltages and the rest of everything else. At which point with a well regulated power supply you can't tell the difference between the thing in and out of circuit. But wait there is more. Lets say you are dumb enough to put this on say a kgsshv power supply, or something (anything) else that is 450 Volts. Do a quick calculation. The R1+R2 load resistor eat up 7 watts (which would be 14 watts total for a dual supply) plus the power in the zeners, say 18 watts total. 33% more power all going directly into heat including the extra power the supply has to generate to light the thing up. In fact a number of tube preamps and small tube otl amplifiers with tube diode power supplys, are unlikely to be able to supply the additional power to light this stupid thing up. Yep, another quality product from jack bybee. But i notice a new difference too, bybeelabs.com and bybeetech.com Each selling different products. I wonder what that is all about.

The ferrites remove high frequency trash, and may keep the output opamps from oscillating under some conditions. If you are going to replace the entire output section, then you can remove them, but they are there to limit stuff over 100khz.

RK50's and the P&G units are the best analog pots available. RK50 can be put on a circuit board, the P&G have to be hand wired.

But a RK50 is not flat to 1GHZ

The arlon boards are about $150 each in 6 layers The relays are $25 each You can spend silly amounts of money on the resistors. So say $1000 per balanced channel is not out of the question. This is certainly going to slow down most people.

Speaking of silly, omron just released a new relay compatible with the step attenuator. VSWR of 1.1 at 1GHZ. So we could up the frequency response of the step attenuator from 400mhz to 1GHZ...

Can do a run of teflon or arlon boards. Then gold plate everything. You won't like the price.

power supply is 9 x 7.5 inches, heatsinks along the long side. amp with on board heatsinks is 8.25 x 6.25 inches amp for side mounting is 7.2 x 3.9 inches

The amount of bullshit Bybee can produce makes Ray look like a 2 year old. Sales of quantum purifiers must be slipping. My guess based on the wiring diagram and the extra parts for higher voltages is that the thing is a power fet of opposite polarity plus a couple of diodes and small capacitors. Similar to the noise reducing capacitance multipliers used in the Melos units. So for positive voltages, a p-channel fet, for negative voltages a n-channel fet. Price not specified. Bet they are $200 to $300 each. Pathetic.

dynahipower2 is going to be the supply for the preamp, trimmed to +/-24V. BIG PROBLEM, no 4PDT relays anymore. Going to have to change that board quite a bit.

Something like this should take care of the inrush current. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EPCOS/B57153S100M/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv9eKVyXEc%252bhAZUpToxTU3SjSna2OgFPkw%3d This is a 2 amp device, probably the 1 amp device works to, put in series with the primary of the transformer. (110vac) all transistor mounting holes are the same as the T2, which is .5 inch between holes.

Everything past the unregulated caps is current limited, so that should take care of all problems.

There seem to be a number of problems with the 3D printing of the stax jacks. Shrinkage when fired, roundness of the holes, sizes accuracys... It might take a few tries to get this right. Not that machining teflon is that easy either, but at least the holes are the right size and in the right place.

Stay away from anything black, as that is going to conduct high voltage. I would like to see the price in ceramic of my exact stax jack, this might be a great way to do this.

I can't imagine that 3D printing is going to be very cheap, but would like to see prices. White nylon probably works ok. ABS, probably can't handle the voltage. I would love a couple of macor ceramic sockets. Those would probably end up $150 to $200 each.

I'm sure the first version only took about 4 hours. But there were 19 different versions. 2 layer, 4 layer, 6 layer all parts on one side, parts on both sides... (REALLY, 19 different versions i have them all) I did not keep track of the time, but i may have more hours in the attenuator board than the T2 board set. Wait a minute... Isn't this the same guy that says his gerber files cost tens of thousands of dollars to produce? Or did things suddenly get cheaper.

Somehow in the many versions of the boards, the dual fet ended up upside down. Absolutely no idea how that happened. The board works fine and i've been listening to it for months now. When i pushed components around to shrink the side mount board, i may have made a mistake, or re-routed something to the wrong place so its a better idea for someone to check against the schematic. After working on all the boards for so long, i can easily miss a mistake that would be obvious to anyone that just looked at it for 15 minutes. I must have spent 100 hours on the attenuator board. I'm glad that one came out perfect because with 6 layers, a mistake in the middle is not repairable. When i go to bed at night and close my eyes, if i still see the board layout, its time to give it a break for a week or two. The blue polution really is a problem.

Thats an older schematic with the stacked 600 volt parts. here is the current one. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvproduction.pdf lsk389 are current production parts. 2sa1968's may be a bit of trouble, you can use the ixys parts instead.

No way i have enough time to make that many more stax jacks. Here is the design http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxout3.pdf Should be about $7 when made in quantity in china. original kgsshv amp board with on board heatsinks known to work perfectly with single fets, and upside down dual fet, new version should be checked for errors. someone needs to check the side mount kgsshv amp board for errors just in case i messed something up when i pushed stuff around. someone needs to check the power supply board against the schematic to make sure i did not make any mistakes there either. prototype run for kgsshv power supply not a bad idea. prototype run for dynahi/dynafet power supply also not a bad idea.

1) Welcome to head-case 2) This is the DIY section. That means you build it yourself. If you try and get someone to build it for you, it will look like many of the exstata disasters over there. 3) go and look up -=germania=- over there.

ouch

yep, thats the part. its on the dynahipower2 board. Absolutely dead quiet in terms of any kind of noise. Switches internally at 500khz. At 1.5 amps of output current, it should be enough to run just about anything you would need to control relays etc. Won't run an I5 at 3ghz

You should be able to boost the thing to do 600 volts. Primary and secondary caps in series are good for at least 800 volts but 900 volts unreg is possible if you make sure the transformer has a center tap to avoid imbalances in the main caps (something mikhail never understood/or choose to ignore) The ixys current sources are rated to 900 volts. you can use the c4686a's to replace the 600 volt npn's, they are good to over 1kv you would have to replace the pnp's with 2sa1968's which are good to 900 volts there is a version of the pass fet rated at 900 volts, in fact there are ixys parts rated at over 1200v (not cheap)

Then you have to use the angle brackets and build it T2 style. But then you can't get it all in one standard box. I'm open to suggestions.

the center holes of the transistors are .875 from the top of the extrusion. This allows for .5 inch for the bracket, then .125 inch of space between the bracket and the edge of the transistor. Some people insist that heat travels up. Which it does a bit, but not as much as you might think. So what you should probably do is mount the amp boards upside down, and then the power transistors are .875 from the bottom of the heatsink. To make it fit into the 3.8 inch space between the 2 brackets, the input had to be moved to the side. So its no longer an exact mirror image for the inputs although the outputs are mirrored.