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Everything posted by kevin gilmore
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That is a rough question, and if you ask 3 different people you should get at least 5 answers. Here is my short list of resistors that are NOT critical. R99,100,101,102 R88,89,90,91 R80,81,82,83 R84,85 The multi-watt resistors in the amp section definitely are important. Some may consider the other parts of the servo's to be unimportant, but i think that everything that touches any of the audio signal would be important.
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There was one bottle of the Don Julio Tequilla in all of chicago, and i ordered it, just went to pick it up and it was damaged and they would not sell it to me. I was told to stay away from the other 2 high priced versions which were evidently based more on the name than anything else. But this spoke to me, so i bought it instead. Binny's Beverage Depot - Wine, Spirits & Beer Since 1947 - Product Detail there was only one bottle of this in all of chicago too... The scotch collection had very little that seemed interesting... May drive to the algonquin store to see what else they have. If there is any reason, i can bring an insulated bucket of dry ice...
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Can anyone find suitable teflon tubing for the power supply modification at mouser? My mind is drawing a blank... I've been using the stuff for 40 years and just can't find the right keywords.
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whether or not the material is magnetic is only part of the equation. Any precision resistor that is spiral cut to set the resistance is going to act like a coil. Way back when when i was designing stuff i had a list of the military resitors that now reside in my basement, that listed the approximate number of turns for each of the resistors in the stack. I would usually design for minimum inductance. Or build in the inductance coupled with the capacitance to make filters out of single components. Stax did this with one of the servo feedback loops.
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The Ultimate DIY Part 2 ? The KGITSOJC
kevin gilmore replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
found a wiring error on the main board, and added .5 inch resistors over the surface mount, so it can now be built either way. can't post anything till power is restored to my servers. -
I would be real careful with that. Blow a germainum transistor and its game over. Chances of finding any replacements is pretty much zero. "Oliver Tex Germanium" charges stupid amounts of money for germanium output transistors.
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No reason to remove it. No reason to hide anything. Put it back if you wish.
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Standard power supply caps are 50mm... So if you pick the ones in stock now that are 63mm then it isn't going to fit into a 3 inch high case. (vertically)
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Firstwatt F5: Why some people should not DIY
kevin gilmore replied to spritzer's topic in Do It Yourself
Yep F1. At least i think its the F1. I have a real nelson pass unit around here somewhere. Same as Recstar has. All of my speakers are way to hungry to run with something like that, so its really just a balanced output headphone amp. And i like the dynafet better for that purpose. -
Yes its going to be very tight in that case. Also remember you need input and output jacks, and an input power jack. If you push the power supply all the way to the transformer, move the transformer up a bit, use the thinnest ac input jack you can find, you should have enough room on the other side for xlr jacks.
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Have the top end one from about 2 years ago, stopped using it because it did a lousy job. Have the one specifically made for garages, the mechanics got so dirty inside after about 4 months that it completely crapped out, sent it back for repair, got a second one that lasted only another 4 months. Expensive toys.
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Firstwatt F5: Why some people should not DIY
kevin gilmore replied to spritzer's topic in Do It Yourself
First watt is a current source. Sounds absolutely fantastic with some speakers and headphones. Sounds horrible with lots of other stuff. Highly inductive speakers for example typically blow the fuses. -
silly boy... http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/melos.jpg
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there are so many design flaws in that thing i don't know where to start. but the biggest one is using the filaments as the current source for the output stage. Once you hack that out, and run the tubes the normal way, and use a real resistor for the current source, lots of problems go away.
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I sure hope there is going to be enough booze for the people showing up...
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I'm sure there are payment plans. There will be one extra chassis in the final batch, which i won't have polished or anodized till the beginning of january. Its really nothing compared to the pile of parts.
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tobacco does evil things to audio gear. especially the high voltage stuff.
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http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/su7300.pdf
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found the exact schematic. The 3 amp fuse is in fact the input power fuse and is a fast blow. The 3.3 amp fuses are slow blow and are the amplifier output fuses. So anything <= works fine. xba1f30nu100 is the 3 amp powr source fuse xbas1a3301 is the 3.3 amp output fuses
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The Ultimate DIY Part 2 ? The KGITSOJC
kevin gilmore replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
Yep, gave the board files to someone that is having a small run done... -
There is still one complete chassis set with boards available.
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With chu's permission i could do just about anything. Including all the library as html instead of php.
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I would not be caught dead with a green checkered doily under my equipment! I stay away from the 440 volt panels... And i saw the new 14.4 KV panel that drives the transformer for my new building. Stay away. Stay very far away.
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I've been testing 9 volt batteries the same way for over 40 years. Don't know where i learned that trick. Its not the size of the battery, Its the voltage divided by the resistance of the load.
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Neither do i, but i fake it real good. I wish i had taken pictures of the high voltage flyback testing setup that zenith radio had 30 years ago. 6 inches of foam, 1 inch of plywood all off the floor, workbench and everything on the plywood, no grounds anywhere, all test gear isolated with massive isolation transformers rated for 75kv... I'm glad i never had to mess with that setup.
