kevin gilmore

Do to a complete miscommunication on my part, there will be one more chassis/board set available. Sorry al for my mistake. Scaring a high power lawyer, probably not a good thing to do At the rate andy is going, he will probably have his finished in about 2 weeks if he can find the rest of the parts.

I'm 56.6 years old and i need MOAR light. LOTS MOAR LIGHT. The reason is to get better focus, and that's only possible with the retina closed down. Even so, i now build stuff under a light magnifier, and use jewlers glasses. Its no joke.

If you put them a little higher than i did, and space them every 3 feet, then you still need 10 of them. But it will really light the bench up.

blubliss gets it...

various different color temperatures available warm white 2500k-3200k neutral white 4700-5700k home depot bulbs are at 2900k (i actually measured these) cfl's and most of the led bulbs are within about 1 watt of each other. the ledwaves bulbs are put together with screws and come apart easy and i will have no trouble repairing them. the cfl's in the basement as they die will be replaced with led bulbs. dimming the cfl's really shorten their lives. if i actually save money on electricity, thats just a bonus. The basement was a total of 1320 watts of incandescent now its about 100 watts. plus the difference due to the heat.

Someone dropped out so i have one extra chassis/board set available. Can probably ship end of next week. $1472 plus shipping.

yes of course there are switching supplies in them. Which is why the cfl's die because they have a big electrolytic cap, and boost the voltage to about 300 volts. The led's are way different, the good ones don't have any electrolytic caps of any kind and the latest nat semi chips do a great job of dimming all by riding the ac input power. i'm not doing this to save power or save money. this is clearly a money loosing proposition at this point. i don't believe the bulbs will last 30 years. i want them because of the color and intensity of the light, and bunches less heat.

See i injured my foot pretty good, stress fracture... Now if i had stayed off it for about 3 weeks then (like my doctor told me) i would not have injured it 3 more times in the following 2 weeks. Finally it got to the point that i just plain had to slow down, and be much more horizontal much more of the time. Great for listening to music. (with headphones of course). Lousy for just about everything else. (queue dr. wood) Anyway, most people would be happy with 2 or 3 of these. These really are great, and cheap, i have 2 in cans lighting the fireplace. EcoSmart PAR38 18-Watt (75W) LED Flood Light Bulb (E)* - ECS 38 WW FL 120 at The Home Depot but i went a bit overboard with 2 of these. Miletus PAR-38 Dimmable LED Light Bulb (20-Watt, High-Power Nichia LEDs) : PAR Series : Ultimate : LED Light Bulbs (warning this company is a bit hard to deal with and lies about delivery times like you would not believe, fake tracking numbers and all...) (neutral white/spot) I get about 6000 foot-lamberts at the work surface with the bulbs about 4 feet above the work area. I already broke the cheap home-depot fixture as it really was not designed for this amount of weight and after adjusting it, one of the two swivels broke. Should be fixed shortly. I'm going to have to put a dimmer on them, because this is more overkill than i need. In a few days i will probably start a thread on the lutron radio ra2 setup i'm installing, complete with about $1500 in led light bulbs. Combined with a few other items, this is slick on a stick (and yes i broke loose a copy of the software without having to spend 2 days in a class with a bunch of blue collar electricians)

Due to busting up my foot a while ago, i have had to slow down a bit. I want to get the next 5 x T2 chassis out the door first which should be about 2 more weeks. That will leave only 3 left. I have shipped the board files to someone that is going to make me a small run of prototype boards for a rational price. Someone else has the board files for the KGITSOJC so that is moving along too. I'm installing hid lighting over my workbench at home today to make it easier to build stuff.

More than happy to help with the expenses. Signature cocktail... Great idea. Should i bring a gallon or two of the 190 proof ultra high quality drinkable ethanol to spice things up? Or maybe a few bottles of 10**18 hplc water... Great stuff over ice. (at $60 a quart it had better be)

Production knobs are 1.5 inches in diameter, and 1.25 inches deep with a shaft that is 1 inch long. Single machined piece.

I have such a meter...

If you are truely insane you can always roll your own capacitors.. copper, or silver foil and teflon insulation. Tune for sound... Could take a while though. And a LOT of booze. Electrolytics really do dry up after 10 to 20 years. Whether or not they are used.

If blubliss can repair a singlepower ES1 doing current source upgrades, and a few other things (without killing himself) then the monkey can certainly handle changing out the caps in a speaker crossover.

Make sure you get non-polarized caps for all the crossover parts. And obviously do both speakers at the same time otherwise its going to sound different.

Looking at the schematic, depending on where the short is, and whether or not the protection circuit is working right, it sure could cause some trouble. I think there are only 2 wires to the midrange/tweeter, if those are shorted it would definitely blow the fuse when the protection circuit releases the relay.

protection circuit similar to QUAD... They don't usually break. Top midrange/tweeter box turns. And so does the wire inside. Known issues relating to the wires shorting inside the turn tube. This might trigger the protection circuit.

Sometimes the top 10 stats thing on the bottom is smushed, multiple lines on top of each other... Ie8

Yes i have heard them. Fixed pole in this case means the rigidity of the stator. The design of the stator is years in the making. And far better than etched and plated glass, or copper on phenolic stators. The other pieces allow the earcups to rotate better front to back. You really want these things. Welcome to head-case and sorry about your wallet. Now if stax was going to actually do a T2 version 2, (correctly this time) with these headphones, the MSRP would likely be well into the $25k range... As it is, with the diy T2 and these headphones, the results are truely glorious.

you know that the usb output voltage is 5 volts, so likely the power supply inside the hub is a simple ldo linear regulator. Which means it probably won't work at 6 volts, and it might overheat at 9 volts if you are going to pull full power out of it.

I'm expecting about $4500 street price in the usa. Yep, not cheap. Worth it. Seriously worth it. Better and non-resonant stators than the he90. Less internal reflection.

That phillips scope is actually make by Fluke, i had one around here, and gave it away. Its a nice piece of equipment that is built well and will last a long time. The HP stuff is also a good deal.

Yep that new $179 version is definitely something i'm going to have to have. Way better than an iphone in the pocket... Well for what i need anyway. i have the original tekmeter digital portable scope, and its great other than it eats batteries alive...

It is really what i'm used to, and after doing the same thing for the last 35 years, i really do not want to change. 10x scope probe on 2465 is 1600 volts peak to peak perfect for doing electrostatic work. 10x on my new tds5000 is only 400 volts peak to peak definitely not enough. Not really fond of the 100x probes. And the 1000x probe is too big to be useful. More to the point is that my other scope is 50 ohms only. And 10x 500 ohm probes are a really bad thing to anything except low voltage RF.

Just about any opamp will work. With the capacitor fix, even an lm741 will work. Next 4 chassis are done and i'll have them tomorrow morning, and ship probably 2 of them tomorrow afternoon. Then the other 2 on thursday.