kevin gilmore

there are so many design flaws in that thing i don't know where to start. but the biggest one is using the filaments as the current source for the output stage. Once you hack that out, and run the tubes the normal way, and use a real resistor for the current source, lots of problems go away.

I sure hope there is going to be enough booze for the people showing up...

I'm sure there are payment plans. There will be one extra chassis in the final batch, which i won't have polished or anodized till the beginning of january. Its really nothing compared to the pile of parts.

tobacco does evil things to audio gear. especially the high voltage stuff.

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/su7300.pdf

found the exact schematic. The 3 amp fuse is in fact the input power fuse and is a fast blow. The 3.3 amp fuses are slow blow and are the amplifier output fuses. So anything <= works fine. xba1f30nu100 is the 3 amp powr source fuse xbas1a3301 is the 3.3 amp output fuses

Yep, gave the board files to someone that is having a small run done...

There is still one complete chassis set with boards available.

With chu's permission i could do just about anything. Including all the library as html instead of php.

I would not be caught dead with a green checkered doily under my equipment! I stay away from the 440 volt panels... And i saw the new 14.4 KV panel that drives the transformer for my new building. Stay away. Stay very far away.

I've been testing 9 volt batteries the same way for over 40 years. Don't know where i learned that trick. Its not the size of the battery, Its the voltage divided by the resistance of the load.

Neither do i, but i fake it real good. I wish i had taken pictures of the high voltage flyback testing setup that zenith radio had 30 years ago. 6 inches of foam, 1 inch of plywood all off the floor, workbench and everything on the plywood, no grounds anywhere, all test gear isolated with massive isolation transformers rated for 75kv... I'm glad i never had to mess with that setup.

I don't see the forum part of it ever being active again due to serious security holes in the implementation of the database and php. Mostly the php.

The warnings about high voltage with significant amounts of energy storage are very real. This power supply has more storage at more voltage than a heart defibrillator. The story on the guy with the voltmeter is complete and utter bullshit. For one thing the simpson 260, of which i have 2 brand new in the box uses a total of 1 x 1.5 volt D cell. The older ones have 2 x 1.5 volt D cells. The maximum amount of current this meter can deliver on the low ohms range is about 1 ma. This is not enough to kill no matter how hard you try. On many of the DVM's however, there is a 9 volt battery, but once again these work on a current source principle, and even on the low ohms range the maximum current is 1 ma with a 1 volt maximum. 5 volt maximum on the diodes range. The best rule on this is insulated shoes, and one hand behind your back at all times. Safety glasses also a real good idea.

headwize and my other sites will be down starting november 26 thru the 28th or 29th due to power shutdown to wire in the power to my new building. Also down december 29 thru january 1 to finish the job.

Whats this with left channels of amplifiers screwed up... Ask Absorbine Sr. for details...

those are the 8 pin dip sockets. you need two for the amp board and 9 for the power supply board. 808-AG11D-ESL-LF Tyco Electronics / AMP IC & Component Sockets another version of the bom with additional part numbers http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2parts3.xls

use these for the fast diodes DSEP12-12B Ixys Rectifiers turns out the answer was actually in the kgsshv thread make absolutely sure you get the teflon tube sockets. unlikely that anything else will fit. use these for the octal sockets and i have extras of these if you want them, but ebay is cheaper CONNEX Socket 8-pin, Octal (KT88, 6550, EL34, etc.) and like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Machine-made-Teflon-tube-socket-8Pin-KT88-EL34-6SN7-/220565777104?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335abeaad0 use these for the 9 pin sockets CONNEX Socket 9-pin, (12AX7, 12AU7, 12AT7, 6DJ8, etc.) i don't have any extras of these. http://cgi.ebay.com/Machine-made-Teflon-tube-socket-9Pin-12AX7-6922-6H3-/220565777143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335abeaaf7 will try to locate the other parts tomorrow. Resistance is Futile. See kgsshv thread.

Do to a complete miscommunication on my part, there will be one more chassis/board set available. Sorry al for my mistake. Scaring a high power lawyer, probably not a good thing to do At the rate andy is going, he will probably have his finished in about 2 weeks if he can find the rest of the parts.

I'm 56.6 years old and i need MOAR light. LOTS MOAR LIGHT. The reason is to get better focus, and that's only possible with the retina closed down. Even so, i now build stuff under a light magnifier, and use jewlers glasses. Its no joke.

If you put them a little higher than i did, and space them every 3 feet, then you still need 10 of them. But it will really light the bench up.

blubliss gets it...

various different color temperatures available warm white 2500k-3200k neutral white 4700-5700k home depot bulbs are at 2900k (i actually measured these) cfl's and most of the led bulbs are within about 1 watt of each other. the ledwaves bulbs are put together with screws and come apart easy and i will have no trouble repairing them. the cfl's in the basement as they die will be replaced with led bulbs. dimming the cfl's really shorten their lives. if i actually save money on electricity, thats just a bonus. The basement was a total of 1320 watts of incandescent now its about 100 watts. plus the difference due to the heat.

Someone dropped out so i have one extra chassis/board set available. Can probably ship end of next week. $1472 plus shipping.

yes of course there are switching supplies in them. Which is why the cfl's die because they have a big electrolytic cap, and boost the voltage to about 300 volts. The led's are way different, the good ones don't have any electrolytic caps of any kind and the latest nat semi chips do a great job of dimming all by riding the ac input power. i'm not doing this to save power or save money. this is clearly a money loosing proposition at this point. i don't believe the bulbs will last 30 years. i want them because of the color and intensity of the light, and bunches less heat.